Cheww

yeah cheers man i should be fine

so I'm dragging my road whore up the gut from Victoria to Queensland, although im super keen on the drive, im only 90% confident it'll make it up and back without a hitch so ive planned on putting a few steps in the way of "preventive maintenance" if u will. i'd just like to hear all your opinions to see if iv missed something or to check sumin, this is what im plaining on or already/done change engine/transmission fluid + filter buy new (i know its expensive) OR just take out and clean injectors + fuel rail already got new plugs just finished reconditioning the distributor change diff oil???? remove ac condenser (doesnt do shit anyway) for better air flow in engine bay new suspension bushings worth it? (some of them are as crusty as balls)

hahahhaha yeahh na, was gonna give it a google later cas i couldnt really wrap my head around how that would even work but yeah na that makes sense now ay

bit late but u still got these??

cheers man ill keep this in mind because a nistune ECU is definitely coming in the future, cheers man

very interesting, but sounds like a fair bit of waiting and i dont really want my car off the road for that long, its still my daily.

yeah shit i know i got a lot to learn but i didnt see it getting up to 3k. yeah my original plan was to do that (recondition the dizzy myself) by just sourcing out and replacing all the parts of the dizzy to end up with 1 nearly fresh one, ill probably just go with that.........unless you know anyone who sells already made up reconditioned distributors?

yeah i definitely under estimated the costs and work of getting an ecu, for some reason i thought i could get the ECU done at around 700ish

yeah i thought an ECU would be a must thanks for confirming that though. and thanks for your suggestion ill do some more research on the price that set up will be, as it cant be pushing far past the 1k mark or it'll have to be saved for another day.

ighty so my distributor shat the bed the other day and considering that the last owner had already done some work to the dizzy, I thought its not a bad idea to upgrade to a new system. ive done a good amount of research across the web/forums on different ignition system that can be used but I've still got a lot of questions left unanswered. Can the coil packs that suit an RB20det or RB26det/25 or NEO"s fit into the rb30 N/A, because i was thinking about running spitfire coil packs "DIS 008 or DIS 001" (not sure if theirs room for them under the intake manifold or if theirs a reason they cant be run on non turbos idk sounds stupid), What wasted spark systems can i fit up to my dirty 31, and do i need to set up a new ECU to run it (im running stock ECU) Finally i'm doing this to increase reliability, to get better efficiency at high rev and maybe a little bit of fuel economy, but is it worth converting ignition systems, i.e. can i achieve these same traits from an after market distributor and some tampering here and there.... also its safe to say different ignition systems are illegal on p plates? yeah any help or comments of this will be f**king legendarily helpful

this is exactly what i wanted to hear, thanks man

So the other day i herd (what i thought was) a drastic outrageous statement..... "That ALL rb30 heads are cracked, EVEN if you cant see it (because the crack isn't all the way through yet)" and this is regarding the r31s as well as the VLs before you ask. old mate says its due to the fact that rb30s have hot exhaust gasses on one side of the water jacket and cold water on the other side and these hot and cold conditions are the reason for cracked heads on unmolested engines with 10,000km. i dont know if this is standard knowledge or not, but id kinda like to molest my engine so the idea of a potential crack in the head doesn't arouse me at all. So what do yall suggest i to do to find out if my engine has an "invisible" cracked or not? and how would i repair it if it was? (if what he says is true) my engines actually running like a dream at the moment but it did have over heating troubles in the past that were fixed pretty quick

yeah cheers man just checking

Ight yeah so I had to replace the boot on my power steering rack, my mate said their should be a touqe setting on the castle nut, I couldn't find one (online or Gregorys manual), so I I just tightened it so it was tight as f**k (not the lowest it could get but tight) and then I lined it up wit the hole, plugged the pin through it and yeh. If any of y'all agree or dis agree to the way I handled it let me know Ur thoughts ay

yeah cheers guys I think I got a good idea how imma tackel it, but should i do the whole panel (when dealing with the rust spots) or just rattle can the parts that need it and hope it blends nicely. yeah na was thinking about chasing down some rims with decent offset (still decided about colour), but for now i figure its cheaper to hunt down some ti hubcaps and roll with those for now

Hahaha yeah man lean indeed, just gotta ignore the roof and rust spots in the body and boot, all that stuff is bound to empty my wallet sooner or later. PS. (Don't have to answer this) but has anyone gotta trick to dealing with rust bubbles/rust in general, or are we all paying the cars weight in gold to get it fixed at the body shop

Hahahaha only hadd to ask

yeah na like apprently the 1st owner was a complete junga, like theirs so many random things the car came with (no crack pipes 😢) such as silhouette tail light garnishes and a f**king street poll for an exhaust tip, but the junkie kept a really nice interior which is wot kinda sold me

Ye na tryinga to say I didn't mean to buy a car with a shit tone of problems. Still luv it, but Im not gonna be rushing into buying a car again anytime soon.

Sure as balls ain't a yaris..

couldn't manage to register [ it says registrations disabled :( ] but i still found what i was looking for, cheer man

Ight so I'm on the verge of buyiny and installing a turbo MX7 gearbox (conversion kit) into my skyline Ti, and im just wounding if any of yous have done it, or could answer a couple questions like; 1. does the fact its a turbo box (on a N/A car) mean its gonna be more reliable, or a like have slower gears cause its suited to a car with more power ?? 2. what kind of ECU should i be using? ive herd ive got a few options a) run a vlt computer on it b) get someone to tune a N/A vl computer to run with my car c) also herd running a skyline non turbo manual will do the same as above 3. and will i have trouble connecting the the vlt tail shaft with the r31 drivetrain ? answering or commenting on any of those Qs would be crazy

Yeah so I gotta Ti series 2 on my Ls, sexy Thang even tho it's a lowkey shitbox at the moment, it'll come together in due time don't U worry. plan on making it look all pretty and dropping in a manual box in it, but we'll see how we go with pourinig money down a bottomless pit.