Vee37

To be clear, I did not take out the battery, however, I recently bought this car, and it does have a battery that is only 2 months old.

On my 350GT, I used NDSII, running on Android, connected to the ECU via a Bluetooth OBDII reader.

Does this issue show up in an ODBII error code scan? if so, have you tried clearing the error codes? On my 350GT I had an error that I could clear (temporarily until it occurred again or I had it fixed). When the error was flagged, it turned my VCD off, but clearing the code and restarting the car, temporarily cleared the issue

Just an FYI, and to bump this for others. I had 2 problems with my passenger side electric window on my 2008 370HT 1. When I closed the door with the window up, it would actually leave the window open about 2 centimetres. I had to manually go over to the drivers side, and wind the window up/closed. 2. When I held the up for the passenger window (drivers side or passenger side control), the auto wind up did not function. I found another thread on another site, and it suggested the same as above, but 10 seconds hold when down, winding up and holding while its at the highest for 10 seconds. I did these steps, and now both problems are resolved.

I did not go for sat nav, as my Android device has sat nav that will always supersede in car nav in MANY ways; traffic, live construction, breakdowns, speed cams inc mobile etc etc etc. I got the center computer (middle of dash) converted to English, less sat nav and the toll stuff, and it was less than $300. Mines a 2008 370GT, V36 I think the following link will help you get some info to go down the other path. https://www.youtube.com/c/AloisXanavi/search?query=370gt

My internal door handles were a little scuffed, So I thought I would try out wrapping them in Carbon Fiber effect Vinyl. I checked ebay, and they all seemed a little dark, but outside of ebay they were considerably more expensive, and this was my first attempt; so I went with something easy and cheap. An example of how they looked before. And after the wrap. I also did the drivers side. I wasn't sure if the wrap would look better with the direction going up-down or sideways. I meant both to go up, but I wasnt paying attention, and now the drivers door wrap goes sideways. Looking on the positive side, it gives me a chance to choose which way looks best. Its a toss up for me, so others opinions are welcome. ANd it will be easy to remove the one I dont like, and do it again. I think the marks are scuff marks when I carried them from the apartment to the garage. I am guessing a wipe down will get them back to 100%. As i said, this was my first go at Vinyl wrapping, and I have to say, it was dead easy, the Vinyl was very forgiving, heating the vinyl made it almost like glad-wrap stretchy; I used a heat gun, but it was actually almost too strong and a hair dryer might even be better. I would of gone for a lighter wrap, but this dark one (and it is almost all black) was simple to order on eBay. Its "7D" which I think relates to how glossy it is; but I dont think its all that. After seeing how black it is, and how easy it was, I am thinking to do the rear boot-lip spoiler in this carbon Fiber effect wrap; on my black car.

I haven't checked if the NSW plates would fit (if cut down within reason), But I notice that the NSW custom COLOUR plates are 372 mm wide But, the guys that sell the protectors/holders, have a "Japanese Plate" option, that is only 331mm wide.

But as you implied, I would be getting the standard (ie current) digits. So I would guess for me, it would be a standard size. ie too big in the back

I haven't explicitly checked, but I assumed they were simply standard sizing, just different colours. Since my car is black, I was already planning on gong a black with silver writing. The thing that surprises me, is that in the eastern suburbs where I live, about 1 in 5 cars have their plates in holders/protectors that have a black frame / edge. A lot of these frames actually appear to almost touch the digits. ie they look like they would require people to cut down their number plate to fit inside the protector/holder. Might take a closer look in a parking lot. I am guessing people are using the front number plate holders, on the rear plate (which is bigger). You can get the "European" ones that appear to have 2 of the front size. https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/search?q=number+plate+protector&lang=en_AU The above was what I was thinking. If I keep all characters visible and un-distorted, and also the "NSW" text (ie state of registration) 100% legible from a distance, It would be ignored; unless I was speeding.... I was thinking of cutting it down and putting it in a smaller black edged frame. What made me question it, is that I went through the gallery thread, and where the back of a 370GT was shown, the plate appeared to naturally fit; although many were vanity plates.

I recently purchased a 2008 Nissan 370GT Coupe from VIC and have registered in now in NSW. Part of the process, includes new plates. For the front they give you one with a slightly smaller height, and for the rear its full size. This larger plate does not fit within the width of the rear License Plate recess, in the rear bar of my car. To make it fit (ie so I can tighten the screws) I had too bend/curve each of the outside ends up a bit (as in away from the plate, in a kind of U shape if you laid the plate flat on the ground). Is there something others are doing to avoid this? The previous VIC plates were also bent in the same way.

Yep. Nissan Datascan III works. I tried both my Bluetooth Do0ngl;es, and was a little suprised they reported the exact same version number. My old cheapie dongle is about 7 years old now, and the JayCar one is brand new.

And now to go back up that mountain.

THANK-YOU! i would of never of thought to have looked for the next version of NDS! Eventually I probably would of emailed them directly, but who knows when I would come around to that obvious step. I wont get a chance to test till later today, but I can hardly wait. My only "problem" is that I now have 2 ODBII - Bluetooth adapters now(cheap eBay one and a JayCar one). It will be a little interesting to see which version they each report for ELM and if one is more responsive than the other. My original cheap eBay one was a litty laggy; I assumed it was using a very old Bluetooth standard. EDIT: Least of which will be to check my ECM against the speedo

Thats another issue I am having. I cant seem to connect ,my Bluetooth ODBII scanned to my phone.I have a cheap ebay one I have been using previously on my 350GT for years without any issue, but now, it doesnt connect to my 370GT, having an "init failure". I have also purchased the one from JayCar, and that has the same issue. I used to use Nissan DataScan as at the time I started, tourque couldnt connect to the Japanese protocol. Is there a trick to it? It just worked on the 350GT. As for accuracy internally, it will still be out if you change the rolling diameter (ie wheel diameter, profile / width) as the ECU does not know of the change to the wheels. Checking my GPS to my speedo is EXACTLY how I know my speedo is out. Normally its around 10% out, but I have got lower profile tires (vs width) that has lowered my rolling circumference, so now my speed is even more out of step with the GPS speed. On my previous 350GT I went from 18's to 19's, and the speed displayed closer to real speeds.

Yep, YOUR RIGHT, I was WRONG! I would loose that bet! luckily I'm not a betting man. I found the exact same diagram as below (ie similar to your V35) in the G37 manual I use. I use the 2009 G37 manual, and I also found a page or two later the following. Which simply confirms that the communication to the speedo is using the CAM protocol, and not simply a pulse-frequency to transmit the speed, as I originally thought/hoped. I am speaking with a guy here in Sydney that thinks he may be able to modify the computer to adjust the speed. But he sounded like he thought there would be a limited range of adjustment available. The other obstacle is that my current tyres are a temp situation. So I would need to adjust again when I change my wheels. I went low profile (30s) as I got cheap ones (just temporary until I upgraded wheels) I expected the cheap tyres to be of questionable grip/handling, but they got really good reviews on-line, and now that i have them, they are really hard to fault and are matching my previous (350GT with continentals being 3 times moire expensive) . I would buy again. <start rant>Not to get all conspiracy theory on this, but the 10% under from factory on basically all cars, when multiplied out for the billions of cars doing hundreds of thousands of K's, the auto industry (inc oil change, services etc etc) are taking the cream. This would be costing the consumers billions of dollars. It also bothers me a little that until I change my wheels, my Odometer is going to be showing more K's<end rant>

I am willing to bet that the individual speed sensors on each wheel are for the specific use by the traction control and not used for the speedometer. The car in the above linked video would also have traction control, and they only install a single unit. If it was otherwise, the manufacturer would also have the same issue, as well as mixing functional units, and mixing safety items with non-safety needs. My understanding of what I have seen, is that the speedometer is simply a single rate counter of an electronic pulse. In the above example it runs off the final drive out the gearbox (like it always has before ECU's using a spinning cable). The number of pulses that occur over a given time period, gives angular / rotation speed, and the speedo is simply scaling that number up/down by multiplying it by the wheels outside diameter, to give meters per second. The above module and the one I originally linked, simply send a slower / faster pulse by a multiplier (%), thus tricking the speedo into thinking its rotating at a different rate, and hence the car is travelling at a different speed. This would be similar as If i put 13" wheels with 30 series tires, or then changed them to 22" rims with 45 series tires. The actual physical speed is irrelevant, its simply a numerical calculation for visual representation ie the dash instrument facing the driver. My plan is to go through the parts catalog to find where the sender unit is placed. Checked the parts.... OK. Interesting, there is a sensor at the back of the gear box (similar to the example vid above) that is labeled "SENSOR ASSY-REVOLUTION". That sounds pretty much like what I was expecting, even before I checked for it. https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/parts?c=Nissan&ssd=%24*KwE2AhN_bl93d0YzQHofHm56Wl1DMj0wMSMwJmBFeSFwJzgiHnFjJmhlYCY_WSIFYm0oJ1oxJikgWG5xEnl7d2pgRXkiMDorJj86NjEpIG06MG0-J1oxJikgdT5xdSYxMTBFJTIwb3EyenNrZ0R-IGkpcXUmQ1BCSUAgLH86PCY_IEBPUzE2aWN8NTA3ISgnZ2F_aRRZeAAAAAClhw-n%24&vid=0&gid=438&q=CKV36-403155

hmmm... this may explain another thing. I tried sticking my electronic toll pass out of sight, on the back of the mirror. It didn't beep. When I stuck it to the glass behind the mirror. It did beep. It was a single test of each, so it may have to do with the tolling system (some toll roads only toll you in one direction)

Thats perfect. Its basically like the other one, but cheaper to start with, and its in AUS! I like the other ones under card / out of sight / water resistance abilities and possibly plug and play. This ones install sounds a little more complex. (from manual) But with JayCars return policy (7 days), its looking good. Thanks. EDIT: Now that I added a search for "Speedo Correction Module" I actually found info on people who may install it, and forum posts of people who have installed it. But not on a V36.

Its irrelevant where the rotation / angular velocity is measure from. It still uses the calculation of angular speed multiplied by diameter (ie 2 * ¶ *R) over time = speed. I am changing the diameter/radius without telling it, so it will assume the wrong diameter, and thus calculate the wrong speed. You have to have both angular rotation speed and diameter accuracy, to then calculate the correct speed. On my previous 350GT, I started with 18" and went to very wide 19" (profile kicked up the OD, even though they were low) and the speed actually became more accurate due to the lower angular velocity; still a little out, but better. Manufacturers have always underestimated the calculated speed, probably so no-one sues them because they unwittingly get speeding fines; they would of course claim safety.

Has anyone re-calibrated their speedo? I changed my tires (width & profile) and went down a bit in OD,which has really screwed the accuracy of my speedo. I found the following product, which looks really interesting. https://yellr.com/ and here is a vid explaining how it works and is configured. I will send them an email asking its availability in AUS and if they have a dealer and if its compatible with a 2008 370GT; or at least a 2009 G37. But if someone already has experience with it, that would be brilliant. PS: I think my speedo is about 20% out!

I am having my oil changed for the first time, and I saw your post. Looking at the Z445, on Ryco, it actually says it interchangeable with the Z436, so maybe thats why they didnt bother to correct it. I have purchased both the Z436ST AND the Z547ST with instructions for the mechanics to try the Z547ST (ie the bigger one) first. Doing quick calcs, I think there would be about 50% more filter surface area on the bigger one (assuming 10mm of case height on both is for the mechanics of securing the filter in place; ie 5mm at top and 5mm bottom). Here are some photos showing the two in comparison. The only visible difference in the photos are because one is higher and thereby closer to the lens. But the 1mm difference in diameter of the seal is totally not discernible to the naked eye. But, yeah, the big one is notable bigger. Thanks!

My one I got recently was jammed full with J-Pop and Japanese-rap. Its was about 95% full! I started clearing out album by album, but found that that was just impractical and tedious. So I went in and deleted / reset the Music Box. Lost a few albums I had put in, but it was quicker to put these back, than delete each unwanted album individually. One thing I did notice when I deleted each album individually, the used readout did not reduce. It obviously keeps it in a trash box to enable a restore.From memory, I think I even found where that was. PD: Just realised this thread was from Feb LAST YEAR, not this year...

Argggghhhh! lost my response due to firewall & web security / integrity checks by SAU! Anyway, The drivers dash between the tach and speedo has a digital display. If I cycle through these on my 370GT, I can get a graph showing the instantaneous economy, OR I can get a digital numeric average to a single decimal point of my economy (eg 6.7l / 100Kms). Attached is a photo of the area I am speaking of, but I dont have photos of the actual two readout examples handy. The slightly confusing thing between the center computer and the dash readout, is that they each have their own independent reset points/methods. On my previous 2003 350GT, it was the same as it is now in my 370GT. It creates a new bar in the history only when you reset the value, not by distance or time. I would reset it every time I filled up the tank. So, each bar in the history was the average I got for each tank of gas, because thats when I reset the value.

OK, my bad, its embarrassing, as it works exactly like it worked on my 350GT. A new bar will appear when you press the reset. My excuse is that on the hire car I was using recently, it was distance based. FYI: Its bad because I pressed reset in quick succession to gets a graph up and running, so economy was bad in heavy rain traffic

As can be seen in the attached pictures, my current average economy is working in my computer, but when I go to the history, its blank. The current average is working, the instantaneous vertical bar also works, but I was parked for the photo so it was not drawing anything But when I click on "Fuel Econ [DISPLAY]" I get the following blanks. oooo.... it just dawned on me, maybe I didn't drive the car far enough to register even the first bar. Does anyone know the approx distance of each bar? Also, can someone confirm that the two text labels at the bottom are not "click-able", but only there for display?