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saw this in a FB group was interesting the SX-R smaller brother doing this with the SX-R low inertia wheel I would hope it to be right at the 4k mark as you had mentioned Lith

would this be a good fit for a Rb25? what do you think it could make with a piston and rod motor? 600 on E?

I would assume these are a quality name brand in aus? No specs on them on the website they are the same price as just kelford drop in springs

These ones from golebys?

Agreed, just was not sure if RBs had anything that would dictate recommending new base or retainer. Everyone recommends head drain due to oil pooling the head. Didn’t kno if there was a similar thing potentially for valve springs

Hi all Any reason not to get the Kelford Drop in springs for RB25DET NEO? RB25DET NEO “Drop-In” Spring to Suit OEM Retainer Any concerns with OEM base / retainer that would warrant replacement ? RB25DET NEO Beehive Spring | Titanium Retainers I know that Ti-retainers would be lighter / faster on valvetrain making it easier to move.

@robbo_rb180 agreed that is what I have heard for q45. So want to stick to something similar to stock 60-70mm max ( just want something better looking really ) overall for the greddy plenum. @Duncan Chequered tuning made 670 on e85 and said they were very surprised it did that with stock TB and they actually ran out of fuel pump. @Dose Pipe Sutututu Running Haltech 2000 (no DBW)

Hi all what options are there for RB25 Greddy / Freddy intake throttle body must be cable throttle q45 works greddy adapter with stock throttle body I have heard that stock throttle body is best for street driving and is not restrictive for ~700whp level

I think it would more depend on use case for the car while this is a rb25 bottom it makes 700 on a g30-770 so most likely maxed out. This would be a great choice for drift to light up the tires and quick torque delivery. I think a g35-900 would be better suited for everything else as it would probably have a smoother power delivery

Blitz or Otaku garage rb26 to rb25 intake manifold adapter shipped US

I know that greddy will work just wasnt sure if there was any other FFP that may be an in between. of the chin FFP vs the OEM / Plazman top half that may have longer runners

Agreed, I guess I would consider long runner oem or rajab since they have their own runners and they bolt to the oem lower plasman (top half cap?) Mid length (just a collector that uses oem lower) and all the rest short runners

Hi all I have been searching around for an aftermarket Intake Manifold (FFP) Wanted to see if there are any others out there as i have been searching for a few months and find a new one every week or so. Overall Height will be the main concern (cant be much higher then Valve Covers). will be in 300zx Z32 Would like to stick with Long / Medium runner If possible. I may be able to do a cut and shut on the OEM one. Plazman Top half May be an option but could sit to high Hypertune short runner CPC Short runner Greddy / Freddy tried and true short runner Speedtek Racing Cast Aluminum 2 piece short runners Rajab Racing Top half, sits high currently only RB30 but in testing prototype for RB25 as of May 25 IMR Fabrication plenum/runners welded to Oem flange look nice may be an option China/ZERO Fab / ISR / NP Bosted short runners let me know if there are others out there that may fit the bill!

What if i ended up with a T4 Twin scroll Manifold, I was thinking the 45SS1, what size A/R .86 or 1.06? or would you have any reasoning against it. Looking at the Dyno graph it does not appear to be to much different then the 43SS PRO. Obviously may be a bit laggier

t3 with .82a/r?

i was looking at this recently when i mentioned that turbo a few posts back.what size Turbine housing was used on the drift car? if a T3 flange i was thinking of the SS3PRO If a T4 TwinScroll i was thinking the 45SS1, what size A/R .86 or 1.06?

2871r

Built 2003 Ford Focus ~330whp LS swap Nova ~400. I asked for inputs because i know how both my prior cars drove and they were great on the street. the focus had a bolt on turbo kit and was super fun. both these cars drove different being v8 and a turbo 4cyl. I dont know how a RB drives or whats acceptable in this case. I have a RB motor with a spun bearing i picked up. I only want to open this motor once so i upgraded internals because i was in there. Want to make more power then my prior cars. Of course. the point i was trying to make here is i know down the line i am going to want more power. So i Get a turbo 6-700whp capable now. Dyno and hit 6-700 awesome great, Drive around at ~5xxwhp. why because i can and i want to learn the car and motor. i get bored 6 months later boost goes up and now in 6xx range. Now I am not worrying about selling a turbo and having to buy something new and spend another 2-3k, Hope i am able to keep the the manifold and downpipe ect. 5xxwhp from a 700 capable turbo uses ~75% of its capability and then when 6xxwhp ~ 90%. If i came in asking about 9174 then i am out of my mind i wouldn't even use half of the turbos capability

the GT3076 being tried and true this is where i started my comparison. But going to something BW with HP in the range between 3076 - 3582 since the BW having the Gamma-ti wheel and everyone saying transient power felt amazing , so i was looking at 7670 and possibly 8370 (which would get me closer to my goals) the precision 6062 but kept coming back around to the BW. Within the past week found the hypergear turbos atr43 : SS2 and SS3 / SS3Pro.

Flex fuel setup is what i am building the fuel system to handle, Just mentioning i am open to use race Fuel if needed. Correct, I noted the Closest e85 pump is 30 min in a direction I do not travel. So while I will go out to get it. I will also get pump gas 93 (93octane is highest available in US) so overall power will be down if mix and could be e50, e30, e10 ect i am just making aware I could have a 1/3 tank of e85, and go fill up with 1/3 tank 93 octane,

dyno run would be on VP race fuel or e85 / e98, E85 is not easily accessible by me. Closest pump is 30 min in a direction I do not travel. So while I will go out to get it. It will also get pump gas 93 octane is highest avilable in US so overall power will be down if mix fuels e50, e30, e10 ect

I am not trying to argue I am rebuilding a engine that needs a rebuild, I am opting to upgrade parts now since I don’t know what power I would want potentially 2 or 5 years down the road. I’m agree on engine stress under load with added forced induction. I have referred to power delivery As to the wheels. I do not want a turbo to be 3psi 3k to light up 25psi at ~4k and all it does is spin the tires, that is what I am referring to as power delivery. If I can get that 6L pull feeling Hells yea I would want it all the time but I know I may need to make it linear to ensure proper traction. so what would you say a good turbo would be? e85 dyno into 6xxwhp but still acceptable to drive on the street if not on e85 (e30, e50)

99% of people asking for injectors size feedback say the calculator said I need 850cc, do they ever say should I lower my goals to get the 750cc? what do most car guys say? , get 1000cc so you have room to grow you are going to want more power later on. It’s one less thing to purchase . That is what I am trying to accomplish. Finding something that has good street manners, potentially hit a number between 6-700whp on a Dyno It could end up being Turbo A on e85 622hp maxed out on the dyno. Then running e30 on the street it’s more like a mid 500whp car and the turbo has fantastic street characteristics. or it could be Turbo B on e85 689whp maxed out on the dyno. ends up being a low 600whp car when on e30 and has acceptable street characteristics for its overall power I haven’t said 700whp+ At all times. I could drive like this forever OR could get bored in a year and decide only use e85 and now the car is at max effort And if I take it to track it will perform and I do not have to purchase a new turbo, upgrade injectors get a new tune ect You said ‘tell me that you would not want the torque of the 6L engine ALL THE TIME in the 2.5. People have a low and high boost setting. Why wouldn’t you want to always be on high boost at all times if the car is capable to perform of that level? What’s the purpose of the low boost setting? I don’t kno what you are referring to with ‘you are NOT making enough torque at 3000rpm to actually do the damage you're talking about’ I haven’t referred to damage. I have referred to power delivery with traction as the underlying item.

Yes I am prepared and understand the costs, I think There may have been a misunderstanding of my question and this should clear it up for all do note that I originally mention I would love to hit 6-700whp on the DYNO i do not expect to be at this level for fun street use , I want to know that I can turn it up and I am not at my ceiling dyno run would be perfect conditions on VP race fuel or e85 / e98, turbo can be nearly maxed out. E85 is not easily accessible by me. Closest pump is 30 min in a direction I do not travel. So while I will go out to get it. It will also get pump gas so overall power will be down if mix fuels are mixed e50, e30, e10 ect looking for a turbo that I can hit. A 6-700whp on the dyno with boost being fast ramp 3-4,500rpm to hit 30psi. While on the street I could have e30,e50 / some mix of gas which if lower than e85 would have overall lower power output and I would have overall max effort rolled back to ~25psi with boost control being a linear ramp over 3-5500rpm

Agreed This is a scenario of what I am willing to compromise with and see as acceptable 7163 is what a few have recommended. Example below (7163) A 5psi :3k - 20psi: ~4k (8374) B 5psi :3.5k - 20psi ~4.5k (7163) if I am going to control boost to dial back a to make the power delivery more linear and hit target 20psi 500-750 RPM later so 20psi ~ 4,500 or 4,760 yes it would spool up quicker and range spread out over 1.5 a 1.75rpm (8374) could use adjustable cam gears to dial back a few hundred RPM so it could start spooling 3300rpm and then hit 20 psi 4300rpm. Yes it would take away from top end a bit but the factor of the larger turbo would still make more power per psi would put me closer to my goals and get within the acceptable street manners/spool range ? not thinking of going from a 7163 to a 9174