S1_C34

Selling a used manual center console for C33 Laurel or A31 Cefiro. It's missing the rear ashtray piece and the radio brackets. The lid latch is broken. It has holes drilled on each side (pictured). Will include the OEM cup holder pictured. $500 USD firm. No trades. Located in WA, USA. I can ship to AUS for about $160 USD (includes insurance for $500).

All these years later, this was a huge help. Thanks OP. 99% sure having my front shaft u-joints serviced will fix the issues I’ve been having. I’ve completely gone through my brakes and suspension. Pretty much every suspension arm, bushing, and ball joint have been replaced. I noticed I’m still getting a weird shuddering when I’m turning into a sloped entrance, off a main road. Goes away quickly. Other symptom was when I’m doing about 90-100km/h on long sweeping turns, I get this little wobble that feels like it’s coming from the front wheels. I straighten out, it goes away. Got the front driveshaft out. PB Blaster and smacking the nuts by hitting your wrench with a hammer on them to kinda shock them… made it a breeze. They do want to round though. Will be replacing with new zinc plated 10.9 grade ones. But yeah my u joints are absolutely SMOKED (only 85,000 km, but just age I guess). I would be shocked if this doesn’t fix my issue. There’s a driveline speciality chain in Washington state I’ll be dropping it off at. I’ve read they have serviced R32 GTR front shafts with no issues. I know it’s been 3 years since you logged in, but thanks again OP.

My ATESSA relay was clicking every few seconds. Did a bunch of research, settled on it being the accumulator. 1997 25x model. 80k km's. My current daily. Followed this guide: https://www.gtrusablog.com/2020/02/how-to-remove-and-replace-attesa.html It's a hell of a job without dropping the diff / subframe. Actually had my diff out while resealing it and doing solid bushings, but I didn't know to replace the accumulator at the time. New accumulator. I paid just under $200 USD for it. Shopped around by part number and went with cheapest, legit seller. I replaced the relay as well for good measure. New accumulator, socket to make into the tool, and 3/4 inch to 1/2 adapter. After I got the old one out. You can see how I cut the socket. It grabs the accumulator on the shoulders, not on the points. Keep that in mind when you're making your tool. Crusty ass, depleted 26 year old accumulator. Getting the old one out. You need to disconnect some wires and move them out of the way. And be very careful when turning the socket to not damage the pressure sensor on the right (visible in picture). It doesn't need much to loosen. This was still a pain in the ass. Bled the system fully after replacing. No more clicking! Hope this helps someone.

Update: I ended up having to install the Z32 calipers with factory lines as the chase bays R33 ones wouldn't work. The Stagea is missing a bracket for one of the clips on the braided lines. So I had to remove the 'olives' on each caliper which was easy. Drill self tapper in slightly and yank out with hammer. Have to be a little aggressive pulling. But yeah, just reusing OEM lines for now, no issues. It was all bolt on, not even any heatshield trimming.

No worries! To be honest (and I'm not saying I'm 100% right) after much much research, I think the center console in your pictures is actually a Stagea one. I've looked at every R34 center console and they're just a bit different. I found a couple threads on here where people were saying R34 console doesn't fit: Thread 1 Thread 2 It's a bummer because R34 consoles are pretty easily obtainable still. Thanks, they just came out with introductory pricing - $1150 USD for the whole set. I know you have to pay to play but there are still deals on YAJ. The attached sold for $266 USD and I saw others sell for less than market. I guess worst case I'll just buy theirs though.

What model R34 exactly? Because I've looked at BNR34 / R34 GTT and non-turbo R34 center consoles and none that I've seen look like yours. They all look like this: I'm looking to manual my S1 at some point so looking at options on center consoles.

You ever end up doing this? How'd it go? I need to do the same. Using Nismo bushings 54545-RS590

1992 Laurel Medalist. My blower motor lately only starts working when the car is up to temp. I looked around the net and I'm not seeing a relay for the blower motor on C33's? Anyone have this problem? Is it possible the blower motor is just on its way out? I was thinking maybe an old relay that only starts working when it's warm, but not sure.

Hate to make a thread over a simple question, I did try searching a bit. Let me know if there's a preferred thread for these small questions. Like title says, is it possible to remove the carpet without pulling the dash? S1 WGNC34. Looked a little tight around the dash is all and no way to take apart further. Want to dye my carpet black professionally.

I ended up buying these: https://www.chasebays.com/products/chase-bays-fenderwell-brake-lines-nissan-r32-r33?variant=41685542764713 $69 USD, couldn't beat it. I'm thinking it will be a direct fit but will report back. Ordered some other stuff from that company as well that was back ordered so it's taking a while to get here.

You're not wrong, it would be easy enough. I'm just kinda lazy and was hoping for an off-the-shelf setup. It probably is! That last part is helpful. Thoughts on the other comment about the stock hoses being too short / not enough slack when mounting the larger calipers as the other poster mentioned? I've seen most people say it's just a bolt-on affair, and that's the only post I've seen saying there isn't enough slack in the hose when mounting the 4-pots. Kinda just leaning towards using the oem lines to be honest, but I may give these a go: https://www.goodridge.co.uk/products/car-brake-kit-for-nissan-skyline-r32-2-6gt-r-1989-1994?variant=12842545348673

I'm in WA (will probably be interpreted as Western Australia on here but I mean Washington State). My C34 is at the port of Tacoma currently, just waiting on customs to clear it so I can go pick it up. I think you're correct that these cars are about to get popular in the states. I know of another KR4 Stagea already in WA. Seen another guy on the east coast (I think it was? Maybe southeast) with a seafoam green color C34. What are the specs on yours? Mine is fairly basic, few factory options but just a RB25DE 25X model. White/cream leather seats are probably the only somewhat rare aspect of mine. Going to be my daily. Trying to learn these cars more and figure out what crosses over with what. It was nice to score mint kouki tail lights for $100 on YAJ. These are still slept on... for now.

Hello, I've done some researching on this site that has been helpful so far. I understand that Z32 / R32 front brakes are a direct bolt on to S1 Stagea. There's an orifice of sorts you need to remove. So an orifice on the calipers themselves. I have reproduction Z32 calipers already in storage. Honestly I have no problems just keeping the stock front brake lines and removing the orifice and throwing on Z32 calipers / rotors / pads. Cheap, cheap upgrade. But if I can find some braided lines for less than the cost of the calipers, I would be interested. And if I get the right braided lines I wouldn't need to remove the orifice from the calipers right? S1 C34 25X brake line diagram. Front brake lines highlighted. S13/14/15 Silvia > 300zx Adapter Brake Lines - https://au.gktech.com/s14-s15-to-z32-skyline-conversion-braided-brake-lines One of the reviews: So RWD C34 and AWD Stagea front brake lines are different according to that and those wouldn't work. Or maybe they would? R33 GTS-T braided lines - https://us.gktech.com/r33-gts-t-braided-brake-lines But those are almost as much as the calipers cost me so I'd probably just keep the stock ones. Can someone enlighten me?