nicko370

Cheers Paul. Got a bit of an idea thanks to good ol you tube.. my main concern was not wrecking anything in the process.. even so, half the plastic door clips stayed behind in their sockets when removing the door trim, as expected. Nothing a few new clips won't fix. .. next time Ultimately the diagnosis proved to be dodgy contacts between board and motor... extremely fiddly not to mention frustrating to work on. Note to others attempting this..mirror glass just pops out as you would expect but do try and get your fingers right in behind and as close to the plastic clips as possible...(heated mirror glass could be hard/ expensive to find) as it required a lot more force than I would have liked to apply!! Also reassembled with some grease to assist in future removal (I ended up doing this multiple times lol). Motor and gearbox are all enclosed in a cute little plastic housing, seemingly glued together in the factory. Be careful not to damage the circuit board as mine insisted on coming out with all the glue residue as opposed to staying put where it belongs. Motor is indeed a tiny 12 v hobby motor(read this on another thread somwhere) like you would find in a slot car. Unfortunately you cant entirely disassemble the mirror as the harness plug holds all the various components captive, so you have to work with everything dangling on a cord. Got the motor running with some jiggling about on a test run, cleaned up the contacts, reassembled and put back together feeling very pleased with myself, only to plug it back in and nothing! Ended up with it apart multiple times (did I mention be careful not to damage circuit board?) and found myself having to resolder one of the tiny capacitor thingies back into position from some ham fisted handling courtecy of yours truly. Not sure how, but got it all working on about the eighth attempt.. door trim back on and lo and behold no power door lock. Trim off again (one of the actuator cables had slipped our of its retainer) back together and all is right with the world. Voila..perfectly working folding mirror. Total investment approximately 7 hours. Next morning guess what? Mirror stuck again 🤨..can hear it trying (which was more than last time) and got it to work with some coaxing, (maybe it was just tired from the late night) and one week later it's still going strong. I'm not holding high hopes but at least next time I'll know what I'm up for. 😁

Hi all. Have been searching for info on an intermittent fault whereby drivers side mirror has stopped working intermittently .. passengers side functions as normal but the drivers has become very much hit and miss. Any ideas? I suspect it's a loose connection, does the door trim need to come off to access mirror connections, or just the small speaker trim as i suspect. If so what is the best technique for prying loose. Tips please I don't want to break anything. Also can this function be turned off? I've read about a toggle switch for this but mine does not appear to have one.

But cheers nizmo .. will definitely look into bulbs methinks.. was even wondering about new projectors. Has anyone switched them out with halo jobbies? Is it even doable?

Roof rack?? Hell yeah!!! Now why didn't I think of that already?🤣 I could fit like six of them up there - big 10 inch ones.. and one of them big curved light bar thingies.... hmmm ....🤔

Bulbs? Not sure.. car has 170ks on the clock and lenses are nice and clear but I guess there's every chance they are original globes. Projector bowls seem decent but not really sure what I'm looking for here. Again, lights aren’t terrible just not brilliant either. Adjustment has helped a bit but thought if I could add a pair of decent hid spotties to come on with the high beam, although not ideal situated so low to the ground, could make a big difference. Slightly unconventional but you can never have too much light for night driving right?

Yeah cheers V35_Paul. Worked it out. The hole is hidden beneath the rubber engine bay seal / trim and the "screw" is a plastic gear which engages the edge of a p2 phillps when its jammed in the slot. All feels very vague but seems to work despite the questionable design. I could see the plastic gears getting munged out easily if you weren't careful with how you go about it... not helped by the fact that you can't really see what it's doing other than watching the headlight beam on the wall and crossing your fingers 🤞

Ok I'm new here and sure this has been covered previously but no amount of searching has turned up a thread on adjusting the headlights on my 07 370 gt. Haven't spotted anything real obvious that screams adjuster +/- Not real sure on how many variants there are, but mine are the HID active cornering ones. Also would be very interested if anyone has installed additional driving lights in the lower fog lamp blank outs? I've seen oem shrouds / fog lamps available and it kinda got me thinking another pair of HIDs down there would be a good thing as I do find mine (although decently bright) a little underwhelming. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Cheers.

Bijan You my friend, are a gentleman and a scholar. Now if only I can make sense of it all and pull it together.

Yeah who knew? Mot me. But the mechanic at Tokyo Prestige was straight onto it. Whipped the wheel off, smeared a small amount of grease on the mounting surface, reassembled with wheel nuts done nice and tight, no more clicking. He suggested removing all four wheels and wire brushing the whole lot for good measure just to ensure there's no crap in there preventing a true mating surface. Wheels are stock. The noise was very noticeable.. cornering at speed, sounded like a stone or tek screw caught in the tyre. Low speed carpark manoeuvres it was a metallic creaking or clicking sound. Interestingly I am now noticing the rear drivers wheel is also doing it. I haven't tried the clean and grease remedy yet will be interesting to see. Haven't had a chance to read up on it yet.. lots to learn on here. Props to the guys at Tokyo though.. service with a smile and no charge for the 10 minutes he spent mucking around with my car.

Clicking wheels. Purchased my 370 a couple months back front right wheel was clicking like a b**ch under load ie left hand corners. Thought it was a bearing problem turned out to be minute amounts of movement between wheel and hub. Solution - wire brush clean both surfaces and reassemble with a small amount of grease. Problem solvered. *Note to other newbies like me. Always use correct wheel nut socket (6 sided) as opposed to 12 point deep socket. Wheel nut is actually two piece with a chrome plated brass sheath which will spin on the nut if incorrect socket used. Absolute nightmare to remedy involving much tapping, flattening, coaxing hammering and swearing.