Wazmond

I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)

Come to Eastwood, you'll get plenty of that 🤣

Straight up didnt know what theyre worth so just put a number ahahha, else it goes to the dump so... 🤷‍♂️

Just selling the original calsonic trans cooler that was fitted on a series 2 stagea. Nothing wrong with it, just replaced it with a bigger transcooler. $50?

Try looking at Eibacb/H&R springs Thats what Gary sourced for mine.

Selling a SMIC for a Nissan Stagea C34 Series 2 and the pipe from the intercooler to inlet. (I believe it is the same R34 GTT, please correct me if I'm wrong) Price: $50? I dont have a photo of the big black pipe that goes from SMIC outlet to throttle body.

So the original radiator is leaking now. Looking at getting a fully aluminium one next. Am I correct in saying that the Series 2 Auto Stageas have a separate trans cooler from factory (located in between the rad and intercooler in my previous post/message). Currently looking at Fenix $460, Blitz $700, GReddy $800, and KoyoRad $740. What are everyones thought on Fenix ( ive read a few comments saying theyre cheap Chinese rebrands etc and how their build quality is... well.. chinese...) compared to the others? Worth the extra couple hundies?

Welp, after months of procastinating, busy weekends and bad timing, the new intercooler is on!(greddy cross flow)

Reviving an old thread, I reckon my stagea is starting to slip. Car usually gets parked on a hill, narrow driveway so cant go up the driveway smoothly, anyhows, lately first gear feels "sluggish"? Not responsive. Feels like I gotta run the engine more than usual to get off the line... Any recommendations for transmission servicing in Sydney? Or possibly just an excuse to go manual ?

Keen on this one, havent been to an SAU cruise before, but what is the average turnout like?

Horrible choice of text color...

Apologies... thought i had outlined it... Cheers for the response, I'll get a nipple sorted out for this.

I noticed theres piping between the A/C and the stock intake piping(just before the crossover). What has people done for this? Should i be creating a nipple for the pipe?

Apologies, while id like to put the MAF as close to the TB and relocate the recirc, this may be too much work. Will most likely end up just putting it on the original AFM spot ( onto/next to the airbox ). Was going through nistune, found a pretty nifty doc on this. Nistune MAF Notes. Also, i was looking through the bay, and there seems to be a tube/line connected from the A/C to the intercooler piping ( Between the smic and the recirc), what does this do as the crossover fmic piping doesnt have any connection? plumbing? not sure what you call it but the nipple thing ahah. Also, been reading up more about crossover fmic in regards to the legality of having the hole drilled for the piping, this would most likely need to be engineered right?

Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?

So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right? Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?

@Dose Pipe Sutututu I read your replies RE: R35 GTR MAFs, any ideal spots to put on? Obviously will need the adapter plate. Will be having a cross over intercooler fitted shortly, would putting it a bit before the TB be okay?

A question for tuning awd, is it possible to disable the AWD? The stagea is an EA/T AWD, Toshi had said on a GTR, he was able to disable it and make it 2wd. Just wanted to double check if this was possible

Was planning on getting an R35 MAF and the adapter, should this be okay? Also any idea where I could get my hands on an intake pipe?

Update 24/01/2025: Bought a GReddy/Trust Intercooler (crossflow spec-LS) that was meant for a R33 GTST $871 AUD shipped, and a GReddy Profec boost controller $483 AUD, both brand new from Japan. Being honest, I would've thought the intercooler kit was discontinued but I guess not yet. Decided due to funds + time, I'll stick with a nistune on this stock-ish setup ( stock turbo set to probably 10-12psi ) and have it run cleaner ( suspect the 3" turbo back etc has sh*tted on my economy ) for my trip down south soon for the WSBK. Hopefully I can get it all installed and tuned by then. As for who I am getting it tuned with, I will be going with Toshi, (not hearing back from DVS so scratch that). There is also Birrong Auto but not sure if they do nistune installations and if they even tune it... Otherwise, anyone know where I can get my hands on an aluminium intake/suction pipe for an RB25DET NEO?

Just a thought, but instead of restricting, is it possible to do like an "up for review" kind of thing? Where say someone who's not an admin/mod tags, it would require approval for it to actually tag? User posts with a 'tag' > Admin/Mod Reviews > Approves tag > Tag now exists kinda thing? Just came across this thread so Im not too sure if Im straying off topic or not but forgive me if i am...

What do you have in that bad boy ? Ill go with the 725cc since I'll be going with Nistune ( would definitely like more engine protection but Haltech is too far out of reach at the moment... plus, Ill probably have a pretty safe tune as its a daily, not gonna be chasing peak power 24/7 ahahah ). Are Xspurt a safe choice? Pete's great. He didnt mention anything about traction arm length so I reckon it may be good. When I get some new wheels/tire later down the road I'll ask him about it and get his opinion on em. I heard from Gary that you've got the bilsteins too, are you running the sway bars too? and what other suspension goodies do you have installed or would recommend?

Sorry just wanting to clarify, at this power goal, which should I be going? Also, More info regarding suspension, the rear upper camber arms were used to get the camber back to i believe around -0.5 ~ -1 degree (@ Road and Race in Rydalmere), I forgot the exact figure, but ALOT less camber than what it came originally which was like -2.5degrees. Are the traction arms still recommended? The bilsteins from SydneyKid, they've got 400lb/in fronts & 275/in in the rear, revalved to his specs. Intercooler, I'm just having a look at some on Rakuten.jp and some other japanese sites. Might get something from back there, GReddy, Blitz or HPI, all crossflow. Looking at roughly $450-$500 AUD + shipping... Theres not many choices except that chinese branded Justjap unless you go for blitz return flow. Yeah, only downside with Haltech is the price ahhaha, so expensive, and with all the sensors if I go that route... $$$$$ yeesh. Are headstuds/gaskets needed for <300akw?

Hey lads, reviving an old thread. As an update, since the last time replied to this thread, ive done mostly suspension. Havent touched the motor except for maintenance. Though upon changing spark plugs, found out i had splitfires pre-installed! Updates: - Got me some stock airbox top cover and snorkel to fit onto the original intake. Should be free of defects - Bought a set of R34 GT-T brakes (not installed yet, going to rebuild + respray in champion blue + white 'Nissan' text) - Bought the last set of bilsteins from @Sydneykid and had them installed. Has been making some sounds on the rear but hopefully should be sorted out after this New Year break. - Regreased front caster rod bushings (poly bushes..) - Rear upper camber arms - Whiteline sway bars (BNF27Z 22mm + BNR11XXZ 24mm). The rear sway bars are a bit short (ive read 50mm else where) but was still able to get them in. Anyhows, I reckon suspension is sorted now. Maybe replace bushes (do have a set of front upper control arms from SK not installed yet) but should be okay for now. From now, I'm wanting to start working on the motor, drivetrain etc etc. Still debating on the order to go on and what to buy etc but: - ECU ( Haltech or Link ( Link states that it dont support A/T or AWD functions... Can anyone attest to this? ) - Highflow turbo ( ATR43ss2 ) - Intercooler ( Not decided yet, but cant find many good afoordable ones. Toshi says to opt for crossflow Japanese. Bit difficult this one, unless I get a returnflow Blitz from JJ? ) - Injectors ( Any recommendations ? I do have a nismo FPR ( Thanks SK ) ) - Seats - Tune by either Toshi or DVS To be fair, I did consider just keeping the stock turbo and nistuning it. Sat in a mates stock N, that had something like 200kw, and I reckon that felt more than enough. Maybe I should just go this route ahhaha. Too many choices.... Planning a trip down south, so wanting to just clean things up and make sure it gets to and from in one piece. Anything else specifically I should do before ? Cheers lads