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zoomzoom

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About zoomzoom

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    S1 Stagea
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    John

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  1. MOSFETs are great and perfectly acceptable in an automotive environment - if properly protected. The gates must be protected against transient spikes. A few tens of volts can be all it takes to destroy the oxide layer and short the device. Unfortunately cars are terrible with transient spikes. So you'll have to trust that whatever device youre using has been designed by an automotive minded electrical engineer. Not to mention that high currents controlled by PWM are probably going to create transients of their own. Those kinds of MOSFET controllers are going to switch hard and create a lot of high frequency transients. I'd be cautious about those devices which are probably just someone's side project - which isn't intended to be a slight, but creating a rugged device for automotive use is going to take a lot of testing.
  2. A SSR cannot "arc" as part of normal operation. Without an oscilloscope, you can't characterise any particular SSR, except trusting the datasheet. Or trust the ebay listing details - lol. From memory, I was able to use those cheap fotek ones up to switching a 1kHz square wave. But I've never used them in anything critical like a fuel pump. The problem with switching frequency is that you increase the time spent in a transition region between on and off states, where the power dissipated in the switching element is the product of the current and voltage across the device. Eventually it reaches a frequency where the device is floating in a partially on state - which is bad news. I doubt any ECUs take the PWM frequency that high though, they only seem to go to a few hundred Hz tops, and it should be adjustable. Also be sure that you SSR is legit. From memory a youtube creator called Big Clive did a tear down of one, only to find a measly 10-15amp rated TRIAC as the switching element. Anyway, an oscilloscope is the tool to measure this stuff.
  3. YMMV. My MTXL setup with the original sensor has been running fine now for 4 years and 4 months. I have been careful not to leave the ignition on without the engine running. The only thing that has given me pause for thought is the fact that the car has begun to run richer than normal according to the gauge, but I haven't done a free air calibration in ages either.
  4. For the love of Dog, always check nuts and bolts that have been touched by any tyre or suspension shops. Bob Jane tmart left my camber bolt loose once.
  5. In the case of a misfire, the ECU wouldn't necessarily have to do anything. The chemistry of the situation with oxygen in the exhaust will read as lean, whether or not unburnt fuel is present.
  6. For the bonnet at least, the generic ebay maxima ones are easy to find, drop right in and they work well. I must have replaced mine circa 2012 and they still hold the bonnet up very firmly. The problem is the boot. Now that I have a good idea of the force, I remember trolling ebay years ago and finding a whole host of generic struts with various attachments on either end. So, on one end look for a ball mount, and on the other, it will require a bit of creativity to mount it to the tailgate.
  7. That's good to know about the force. My struts have held up for another 6 years.
  8. Nice work. I thought about making something similar for the power windows after having to dismantle the switches and clean the deposits off all the little individual copper rocker arms and contacts. It's crazy to think that 20 years ago, all of those little components of the switch were the cheapest way to manufacture a power window switch. But if that arduino assembly sits in the door panel, I'd be concerned about moisture and corrosion. It's essentially an outdoor area, electrically speaking.
  9. Are these a dying breed? I'm looking for an upgrade for the mrs, and we are both leaning towards another wagon. I'd really like to get something AWD and with a decent bit of power, hopefully 6 cylinders for the sound and smoothness, rather than a turbo 4. However, there doesn't seem to be much around, unless you're willing to go for an expensive audi or merc. Subaru seems to have gone the CVT route with everything, and the other major manufacturers spend all their time churning out SUVs and 100kw pieces of cheese. Strangely, the most interesting vehicle at the moment looks like the new Holden Commodore tourer AWD. A Commodore VF wagon with RWD might be an option too. Are there any interesting gems out there that I am missing?
  10. Unless it is a custom built stroked motor, there is no 2.8L motor. Its a 2.5L. If it was a custom motor it wouldn't have a stock turbo either.
  11. Check the turbo for shaft play first. If that is OK, just fix the leak. If you want to go replacing the turbo, you'll be finding you need to do quite a few other things as well to make it worth it: exhaust, valve body upgrade if an auto car, FMIC, and tuning. If you need to swap turbos without the supporting modifications, Id ask about turbos smaller than the 21U hypergear high flow unit. That will keep the engine response and power curve close to stock - something that is an important consideration for a daily driven, heavy vehicle.
  12. zoomzoom

    C34 Sun visor

    I'm looking for a repair or replacement of my driver's side sun visor. It will stay up, but not fully down and forward, meaning it sinks down an I have to awkwardly bend my neck to see under it. Are there any other basic nissan models that share a similar item, or even other car brands? It looks like a pretty simple item, 2 mounting screws and a simple rectangular shape.
  13. Yes, connecting piggyback devices to sensors can cause a voltage drop on the measured device. I had this issue with analogue signals like TPS etc. Digital signals are not going to be affected in the same way however, as long as they meet their threshold voltages. You shouldn't assume that the analogue inputs will be "high impedance", in fact you would expect lower impedance inputs because they provide greater immunity against induced voltages, thereby reducing noise on your signal. For example my adaptronic ECU lists some of the input impedances as 20k. I would consider "high impedance" to be greater than 1M ohm. Ideally, you'd also like to know the source impedance of the 5v sensor reference, not to mention any resistances in the 20 year old wiring. If you can calibrate any device which is measuring a voltage, it doesn't matter too much anyways.
  14. I've been running just about every superpro bush since 2012. Control arms, castor, steering rack etc. While they're fine and have been silent, if you can simply put in a new adjustable item with new bushes, do that. Don't bother replacing the bushes.
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