zoomzoom

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About zoomzoom

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    Rank: RB25DET

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  • Car(s)
    S1 Stagea
  • Real Name
    John

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  1. In the case of a misfire, the ECU wouldn't necessarily have to do anything. The chemistry of the situation with oxygen in the exhaust will read as lean, whether or not unburnt fuel is present.
  2. zoomzoom

    For the bonnet at least, the generic ebay maxima ones are easy to find, drop right in and they work well. I must have replaced mine circa 2012 and they still hold the bonnet up very firmly. The problem is the boot. Now that I have a good idea of the force, I remember trolling ebay years ago and finding a whole host of generic struts with various attachments on either end. So, on one end look for a ball mount, and on the other, it will require a bit of creativity to mount it to the tailgate.
  3. zoomzoom

    That's good to know about the force. My struts have held up for another 6 years.
  4. Nice work. I thought about making something similar for the power windows after having to dismantle the switches and clean the deposits off all the little individual copper rocker arms and contacts. It's crazy to think that 20 years ago, all of those little components of the switch were the cheapest way to manufacture a power window switch. But if that arduino assembly sits in the door panel, I'd be concerned about moisture and corrosion. It's essentially an outdoor area, electrically speaking.
  5. zoomzoom

    Are these a dying breed? I'm looking for an upgrade for the mrs, and we are both leaning towards another wagon. I'd really like to get something AWD and with a decent bit of power, hopefully 6 cylinders for the sound and smoothness, rather than a turbo 4. However, there doesn't seem to be much around, unless you're willing to go for an expensive audi or merc. Subaru seems to have gone the CVT route with everything, and the other major manufacturers spend all their time churning out SUVs and 100kw pieces of cheese. Strangely, the most interesting vehicle at the moment looks like the new Holden Commodore tourer AWD. A Commodore VF wagon with RWD might be an option too. Are there any interesting gems out there that I am missing?
  6. zoomzoom

    Unless it is a custom built stroked motor, there is no 2.8L motor. Its a 2.5L. If it was a custom motor it wouldn't have a stock turbo either.
  7. zoomzoom

    Check the turbo for shaft play first. If that is OK, just fix the leak. If you want to go replacing the turbo, you'll be finding you need to do quite a few other things as well to make it worth it: exhaust, valve body upgrade if an auto car, FMIC, and tuning. If you need to swap turbos without the supporting modifications, Id ask about turbos smaller than the 21U hypergear high flow unit. That will keep the engine response and power curve close to stock - something that is an important consideration for a daily driven, heavy vehicle.
  8. zoomzoom

    I'm looking for a repair or replacement of my driver's side sun visor. It will stay up, but not fully down and forward, meaning it sinks down an I have to awkwardly bend my neck to see under it. Are there any other basic nissan models that share a similar item, or even other car brands? It looks like a pretty simple item, 2 mounting screws and a simple rectangular shape.
  9. zoomzoom

    Yes, connecting piggyback devices to sensors can cause a voltage drop on the measured device. I had this issue with analogue signals like TPS etc. Digital signals are not going to be affected in the same way however, as long as they meet their threshold voltages. You shouldn't assume that the analogue inputs will be "high impedance", in fact you would expect lower impedance inputs because they provide greater immunity against induced voltages, thereby reducing noise on your signal. For example my adaptronic ECU lists some of the input impedances as 20k. I would consider "high impedance" to be greater than 1M ohm. Ideally, you'd also like to know the source impedance of the 5v sensor reference, not to mention any resistances in the 20 year old wiring. If you can calibrate any device which is measuring a voltage, it doesn't matter too much anyways.
  10. zoomzoom

    I've been running just about every superpro bush since 2012. Control arms, castor, steering rack etc. While they're fine and have been silent, if you can simply put in a new adjustable item with new bushes, do that. Don't bother replacing the bushes.
  11. zoomzoom

    Update: this band-aid fix lasted 4.5 years. LOL Just had to do a reapplication of WD40 over the mechanism again, as it seems to be binding up again with cold weather. I'm still not sure how the release mechanism works, or what's causing it to stick. But considering how much work it is to remove it, I'm not taking it out. Unfortunately, this time the WD40 trick was less effective. I might have to do a few applications.
  12. Ive now set up my own ignition retarding feature for when the auto transmission shifts under heavy load. I run about 13psi under full load, and I wondered what stresses are on the exhaust valve when the cylinders are being fired at 0 degrees advance. AFRs under full load are around 11.5 : 1. Should that keep the combustion temperature in a safe range for the valves? Or should I richen further while retarding the ignition? The retarding period lasts about 200ms, or about 10-12 combustion events per cylinder at most.
  13. zoomzoom

    Everyone is going to have a different experience long term with their vehicle. All I can say is that my s1 auto stagea has provided 10 years of lugging duty with minimal hassle. Sure, it's required a fair bit of maintenance replacing wear and tear items, but has only broken down once in a decade. In regards to the electrical problems, thankfully the technology in the stagea is quite simple and so work arounds can be made for electrical problems. For example my tachometer blew (both the ecu pin and tacho driver in the cluster), and so I rebuilt the driver myself using off the shelf chips.
  14. zoomzoom

    For the curious: I tried to reposition the balancing weight, however any widening of the shaft causes it to interfere with something. Eventually the solution I came up with was to shape a piece of metal to be tack welded to the very end of the shaft where it meets the transfer case end yoke. It was around 15g. I also zip tied the boot around the PRND cable to prevent the rubber boot sagging onto the shaft when there are bumps. But other than that it just clears the major solid obstacles - only by a couple of mm. A tentative test drive slowly working up to 100kmh seems to be a success. Can't feel any vibrations that could be obviously attributed to the shaft. No odd noises, nor evidence of the shaft making contact with anything. So in conclusion, R33 GTR shafts are NOT a drop in affair.