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Unzipped Composites

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Unzipped Composites last won the day on October 9

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About Unzipped Composites

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    Rank: RB25DE

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  • Car(s)
    R34 GTT
  • Real Name
    Martin
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  1. Looks like it started last Wednesday, it doesn't show any new posts since then. Here I was thinking it had just gone extremely quiet here all of a sudden!
  2. This is not a fun time 😔 feel for ya mate, but you said it yourself a few pages back - its all just metal and you can't take it to the grave! My 2c on the fender repair - body filler will look terrible over time. If it doesn't crack, it will definitely at least shrink and cause distortions in the surface. The only way to fix that panel and have it last is to replace it.
  3. Well one would assume that they probably haven't modified the baffle positions to suit the new breather locations though, so they may effectively have half the baffles. On a 25 the baffles are still positioned accordingly. Whether that actually makes much difference or not on a track car with inherent oil control problems? Probably not so much.
  4. Not sure if Laine would agree here... Feels quick in a nice succinct post though! 😅
  5. Going from a street tyre, the AR1's are going to feel pretty good anyway. So if you're concerned about money, AR1's are ok. Personally I agree with Dose - they seem to have a really tight performance window, where to get the best times out of them you really need to dial the pressures in for each corner (of the car). And then when they are gone, they are gone. Which makes it really hard to have confidence in them, because you'll go out for a couple of laps, get some heat into them, love the grip, and then go into the next corner like you're on ice. All well and good if you aren't actually trying to dive later and later into each corner and really trying to find those tenths, so they aren't a terrible option if you're really just wanting a bit of fun while going faster than you would on street tyres. If you genuinely want to drive on the limit of what your car can do - the AR1's wouldn't be my choice. To put that in perspective, I would probably be happy to run AR1's for testing/tuning purposes where seat time is really the ultimate goal. If I was entering a competition, I would stay well away, and go a proper tyre like A050/Z221/AD08 pending regulations.
  6. Go custom, off-the-shelf kits are so 2005. Seriously though, custom exhausts are significantly better for ground clearance, and they can be tailored to the sound you want. And if youre looking at the good Japanese brands, you'll likely come in pretty close to the same price anyway. Cheaper if you find the right fabricator. Why anybody still uses off-the-shelf exhausts is a mystery to me.
  7. Testing my memory and my maths skills at 4am; but I believe you would need to remove ~6.5 thou to drop the volume of the combustion chamber by 1cc. That won't be exactly correct, but quite close. So if you measured your head volume at 60cc, for example, you could work out that the head has been decked by roughly 25 thou. Which is quite a bit, and unlikely, but you just don't know. That said, it is sort of more important to CC the head for the sake of correctly calculating your compression ratio. In order to work out your piston to valve clearances, you would be better served by doing a dummy assembly using your old gear (you only need to assemble 1 cylinder) and use that to measure your clearances as they were. Then with that knowledge, plus knowing the volume of your head, you can work out a good CR, what thickness headgasket you can use to achieve it, and what pistons you should be getting.
  8. Depends what fuel you have access to and are planning to run.
  9. This is what I'm saying - you don't want unknowns. You need to measure everything. Get the head CC'd to find out how much volume you have so you can work things out properly. End of the day, there's a decent chance you can guess the headgasket thickness and it will be ok. There's a bit of a chance you guess wrong and it doesn't end well. But you have an opportunity to build the thing properly and nicely, so starting off guessing things isn't just a shame, it's a risk.
  10. Better start measuring things then! Measuring the old headgasket and going 4 thou thicker isn't really the best way to go about things. What was the compression ratio with the old headgasket, was it any good? Or did the previous builder just pick a 1.3mm headgasket out of a box and didnt calculate the static compression ratio? How much has been decked off the head and block; 10 thou, 20 thou, 30 thou? Is picking a 1.4mm headgasket going to result in a really sluggish CR, or worse, is it going to result in not enough deck height and you'll be tapping pistons? To do it properly, you really need to look at the engine as a whole package, measure everything, and work out what your clearances are and what compression ratio you're going to achieve. Forget about the old builds and what they used in that, you want to start working out what parts you are going to use in order to build the thing well.
  11. Andy at Maddog Customs would be my recommendation.
  12. King or ACL for the bearings. Can't help with the axle, I'm sure someone else will have some tips!
  13. Yeh, and apologies for my part in it Oktaytrz, I'll leave it alone and let you get back to the build!
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