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Unzipped Composites

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Everything posted by Unzipped Composites

  1. 🤣🤣 sorry buddy, I gotta keep on your case otherwise you'd win things and set records and not tell a soul!
  2. *whispers* hey @bcozican, I'll just leave these here: 🏆🥇 👀
  3. Generally window seals are made from EDPM rubber, so regular cyanocrylates (super glue) won't give a strong bond. They might work initially but will pop off again. For a permanent bond you need a high strength cyanoacrylate that has been specially formulated for bonding natural rubbers, like Permabond 105 or ASI RP.
  4. Yeh fair enough, I wasn't sure - I went down the Hypertune route, and even then I just bought the core. I thought someone like Goleby's may have kept some stock of the Pro series.
  5. Plazmaman Pro or Hypertune are the go. Plazmaman more likely available straight off the shelf and a bit cheaper. In all honesty, I would do the intercooler before you do too much else. Airboxes arent as essential as a lot believe, they do make a difference and they help and given they're fairly cheap and simple to make its not a terrible idea, but - an airbox isn't going to bring 60° charge temps down very much at all. 80° ambient temperature at the pod filter isn't terrible, your turbo is going to be heating the charge air a lot more than that. So your intercooler sounds horrendously inefficient. Cold air intakes from outside the engine bay are also unnecessary, the positive lift and drag you cause by doing that is more harmful to performance than warm IAT's. Unless you can duct air in from an existing opening in your front bumper. But in reality there is already plenty of cold air going to your pod filter, these engine bays are not stagnant pockets of hot air, there is plenty of movement in there. Get good intercooler, fit that, go for a retune. If your intake temps are still up over 50°, then think about making an airbox and fitting a water sprayer etc. But I bet you'll find a Plazmaman Pro cooler has your charge temps back down around the low 40's
  6. This thread is legit great when you don't get on here everyday: Come on once a week, read 1 out of 5 pages to learn still no Samsonas; assume the other 4 filled with reno chat/solar chat/Johnny trying to convince us all to get a BMW, log back out. See you all in a week, can't wait for the Samsonas pics!
  7. It shouldn't really happen, we've got a couple of track cars on E85 that don't get used much and often don't get started for 18 months - 2 years, but they always start up and run ok. You obviously wouldn't do any full load stuff, the fuel won't be any good anymore, but that's more about its ability to prevent detonation than it is about clogging anything. That said, it's possible, and always worth doing a full check of the fuel system as you're doing.
  8. Not quite what you are after as this is a straight back to back between an old GT2871 (not GTX) and an external gate G25-550, but it might give you something of an idea? Engine is a stock SR20. This wasn't pushed as hard as it could go, could only put 1.5bar into it as the customer was still running the internal map sensor on his PS2000.
  9. This. People also love to jump on the internet and harp on about how shit someone is when they're developing new products because saying something is shit makes you seem like you know what you're talking about. When really you're just an end user and don't really know what goes in to developing high end products.
  10. Haha... I threw my condenser in the bin when I stripped the car down, imagining that second hand they were worth 3 cents and a mouldy apple core.
  11. You should be a politician Benji; just as out of touch. I'm surprised you don't send your butler to go do the inspection for you.
  12. The difference there being that rims are primarily an aesthetic component, and their performance is a somewhat secondary consideration for most. Turbos are the opposite, people want the best performance and their aesthetic appeal is less important. All of that said, I do still 100% agree with the point being made and I'm a little surprised by BW's response to it. Yes, casting inclusions can happen from time to time, but it's still an issue and you dont sell that to someone. It might only be a cosmetic flaw, but it does not inspire confidence in the product as a whole. At the very least, offer those ones at a discounted rate, you can't sell that for the same price that you sell a perfect one. But realistically any company should be wary of putting their name on flawed products, I would be throwing those ones in the bin.
  13. Completely agree with the first two but No. 3 is a strange one to say is a must have? At those km's I'd think about getting a brand new OEM crank pulley on there, but probably only if the motor was coming out for any reason. It would be a long list before crank pulley came up for me!
  14. They've been around for 23 years, they'll be around in another 4 haha. Who knows what they'll be selling for though 🙄🙄🙄
  15. This seems like something that would have been a good option 5 years ago - in today's climate it seems like a really really poor investment. I honestly think unless you have some sentimental attraction towards Skylines - they really aren't that impressive a car. Don't get me wrong I wouldn't trade mine for anything and I have a massive soft spot for any Skylines I see (especially ones that are being tracked) - but if you're going in thinking about resale and how you're going to sell it in a few years, then unless it's a GTR I would stay well away and go for a more modern car.
  16. Golf R great choice as well, impress your mates and ya mum at the same time! Seriously though, those little VW's are pretty quick. Between the 86 and the Golf, you've literally just described almost half the regular field in our local time attack series haha. None of them are anywhere close to winning, but they're giving it a red hot crack 😅
  17. I would say forget the Skyline, get the 86. 86/BRZ being the more modern car will be the nicest to drive, so that would probably be my pick. Plus less police attention, decent aftermarket options, etc.
  18. They are likely going to be different colours. Best way to know for sure is still going to be to go to a paint supply shop and just ask them to compare the Hex code for the two colours. And then while you're there, get them to mix you up a can for cheaper than you would pay to get off-the-shelf non-matching junk.
  19. Yeh wow, the new one actually sounds cheap by today's standards. I wouldn't even be thinking about the used one. In fact, I don't need one but I'm tempted to jump on that and get one myself before the drift brigade find out! 🤣
  20. Also wash with soap and water. Wax and grease remover will remove oil based contamination but not water based. Best to use both.
  21. Yeh I dunno, keep in mind that what Nismo were doing with the cars and what Gibson were doing with the cars was quite different. It's well known the Australian GTR's were making more power than the Nismo GTR's, Australia had the strongest Group A series in the world and they needed the power to compete. Nismo were making bank selling 500hp engines to private racers, and they owned the Japan Group A series. So for them developing the car further just meant spending more money, and they were already winning so why do it. Here the Nismo-spec cars wouldn't have won, Gibson had to push them further and develop the cars more, and Nismo were too expensive so they were only a small part of that. Gibson were developing a lot of parts themselves as well as getting stuff locally and from America etc. But Nismo and Nissan still supported that development, and they developed the stronger blocks for them etc. The motors weren't getting completely rebuilt after every race, reliability was an important consideration for them and they had an obscene budget to do it. You also have to wonder if they were capping power at 650 because that was the limit of the engine or because of other factors, ie. Old school turbo tech, old school ECU's, old school dyno tech, tyre restrictions meaning the old school tyre tech couldn't get it to the ground, terrible aero also making it difficult to drive any faster, etc. Is it a case of they pushed the engine as hard as it could go, or is it they pushed the entire package to the limit of what would make a fast Group A car? We know Skaife said they were horrific cars to drive, would having 800hp with bigger, laggier turbos have made them faster or slower? So it's sort of difficult to say what power they were 'engineered' to handle vs what power they were developed to handle for Group A racing vs what power they can handle after 30 years of aftermarket development, etc.
  22. I also think it would be wrong to say that RB's are weak or inherently flawed. Their oil control issues and block strength aren't a design flaw, they did exactly what they were designed to do when being used for what they were designed to do. Really it's the fact that they are quite a solid base that we are discovering their limits, because people are trying to push them to 600-700-800+ horsepower. Go and try that with a Toyota 2ZZ, the crank starts walking around at 500hp and you can't stop it. There's plenty of motors that legitimately can't handle it at all, the RBs sort of can but you're asking a lot of them. At the end of the day, there's just no guarantees either way. You might build a 600hp engine and have it last 15 years, it might last 2 months - there's no way to guarantee it. So you're playing an odds game, you're rolling the dice. And if you aren't comfortable rolling the dice with the amount of money that it costs to play the game, then the best advice anyone can give is to not do it. Don't go to the casino and put all your money on Red if it will hurt too much when you land on Black. Just ask [email protected], he's the sort of man that stands with his back to the table and barely even checks what colour the last throw landed on before rolling again 🤣🤣🤣❤
  23. Ahh I see, I thought you were saying you were going back to a 2.6L. Just misunderstood what you meant by based. Carry on then!
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