Jump to content
SAU Community

Unzipped Composites

General Business Trader
  • Posts

    330
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    6
  • Feedback

    0%

Everything posted by Unzipped Composites

  1. The difference there being that rims are primarily an aesthetic component, and their performance is a somewhat secondary consideration for most. Turbos are the opposite, people want the best performance and their aesthetic appeal is less important. All of that said, I do still 100% agree with the point being made and I'm a little surprised by BW's response to it. Yes, casting inclusions can happen from time to time, but it's still an issue and you dont sell that to someone. It might only be a cosmetic flaw, but it does not inspire confidence in the product as a whole. At the very least, offer those ones at a discounted rate, you can't sell that for the same price that you sell a perfect one. But realistically any company should be wary of putting their name on flawed products, I would be throwing those ones in the bin.
  2. Completely agree with the first two but No. 3 is a strange one to say is a must have? At those km's I'd think about getting a brand new OEM crank pulley on there, but probably only if the motor was coming out for any reason. It would be a long list before crank pulley came up for me!
  3. They've been around for 23 years, they'll be around in another 4 haha. Who knows what they'll be selling for though 🙄🙄🙄
  4. This seems like something that would have been a good option 5 years ago - in today's climate it seems like a really really poor investment. I honestly think unless you have some sentimental attraction towards Skylines - they really aren't that impressive a car. Don't get me wrong I wouldn't trade mine for anything and I have a massive soft spot for any Skylines I see (especially ones that are being tracked) - but if you're going in thinking about resale and how you're going to sell it in a few years, then unless it's a GTR I would stay well away and go for a more modern car.
  5. Golf R great choice as well, impress your mates and ya mum at the same time! Seriously though, those little VW's are pretty quick. Between the 86 and the Golf, you've literally just described almost half the regular field in our local time attack series haha. None of them are anywhere close to winning, but they're giving it a red hot crack 😅
  6. I would say forget the Skyline, get the 86. 86/BRZ being the more modern car will be the nicest to drive, so that would probably be my pick. Plus less police attention, decent aftermarket options, etc.
  7. They are likely going to be different colours. Best way to know for sure is still going to be to go to a paint supply shop and just ask them to compare the Hex code for the two colours. And then while you're there, get them to mix you up a can for cheaper than you would pay to get off-the-shelf non-matching junk.
  8. Yeh wow, the new one actually sounds cheap by today's standards. I wouldn't even be thinking about the used one. In fact, I don't need one but I'm tempted to jump on that and get one myself before the drift brigade find out! 🤣
  9. Also wash with soap and water. Wax and grease remover will remove oil based contamination but not water based. Best to use both.
  10. Yeh I dunno, keep in mind that what Nismo were doing with the cars and what Gibson were doing with the cars was quite different. It's well known the Australian GTR's were making more power than the Nismo GTR's, Australia had the strongest Group A series in the world and they needed the power to compete. Nismo were making bank selling 500hp engines to private racers, and they owned the Japan Group A series. So for them developing the car further just meant spending more money, and they were already winning so why do it. Here the Nismo-spec cars wouldn't have won, Gibson had to push them further and develop the cars more, and Nismo were too expensive so they were only a small part of that. Gibson were developing a lot of parts themselves as well as getting stuff locally and from America etc. But Nismo and Nissan still supported that development, and they developed the stronger blocks for them etc. The motors weren't getting completely rebuilt after every race, reliability was an important consideration for them and they had an obscene budget to do it. You also have to wonder if they were capping power at 650 because that was the limit of the engine or because of other factors, ie. Old school turbo tech, old school ECU's, old school dyno tech, tyre restrictions meaning the old school tyre tech couldn't get it to the ground, terrible aero also making it difficult to drive any faster, etc. Is it a case of they pushed the engine as hard as it could go, or is it they pushed the entire package to the limit of what would make a fast Group A car? We know Skaife said they were horrific cars to drive, would having 800hp with bigger, laggier turbos have made them faster or slower? So it's sort of difficult to say what power they were 'engineered' to handle vs what power they were developed to handle for Group A racing vs what power they can handle after 30 years of aftermarket development, etc.
  11. I also think it would be wrong to say that RB's are weak or inherently flawed. Their oil control issues and block strength aren't a design flaw, they did exactly what they were designed to do when being used for what they were designed to do. Really it's the fact that they are quite a solid base that we are discovering their limits, because people are trying to push them to 600-700-800+ horsepower. Go and try that with a Toyota 2ZZ, the crank starts walking around at 500hp and you can't stop it. There's plenty of motors that legitimately can't handle it at all, the RBs sort of can but you're asking a lot of them. At the end of the day, there's just no guarantees either way. You might build a 600hp engine and have it last 15 years, it might last 2 months - there's no way to guarantee it. So you're playing an odds game, you're rolling the dice. And if you aren't comfortable rolling the dice with the amount of money that it costs to play the game, then the best advice anyone can give is to not do it. Don't go to the casino and put all your money on Red if it will hurt too much when you land on Black. Just ask [email protected], he's the sort of man that stands with his back to the table and barely even checks what colour the last throw landed on before rolling again 🤣🤣🤣❤
  12. Ahh I see, I thought you were saying you were going back to a 2.6L. Just misunderstood what you meant by based. Carry on then!
  13. This. Can't stand it when people sit there idling their cars for 10+ minutes, it's doing more harm than good. Never seen a GT3/V8 Supercar/Pro time attack car etc sit idling for 10 minutes, you fire it up and get moving.
  14. Wait, did I miss something? What happened to the 2.7?
  15. Kelfords are definitely the go, forget shitty old Jap cams. Speak to Kelford about your aims for your build, they can give you guidance on the most appropriate profile.
  16. Fair enough, I stand corrected! I'll admit, I had never noticed any smells and when on 98 it would take a good few months of driving without washing before any soot developed on the rear bar, so they obviously did something. I had always been content with it until it failed the emissions test, which as you say is only a 5 gas test. My package just needed a different combination I guess.
  17. Won't pass an emissions test though. Used to have one on my car when it was a street car, but it failed the Euro 3 standards even on E85. Was going to buy a certified Euro 4 cat to replace it but ended up taking the car off the road instead.
  18. Feel like I had those titanium exhaust studs come up in a sponsored Facebook ad. They seem alright?
  19. I still wouldn't consider this a permanent repair man. Vinyl esters aren't really more flexible than polyesters*. Realistically vinyl has better cross-bonding properties which is why it works better than polyester, but epoxy is even better again so if you had to choose a regular laminating resin to attempt to repair ABS with then it would be epoxy all day long. Fact remains though, ABS is a low energy plastic and is difficult to bond to. Not completely impossible like some others types of plastic, HDPE and Polypropylene are virtually impossible to bond, but still difficult enough that even an epoxy bond will only be 'moderate'. You can improve it slightly by increasing the surface energy of the ABS through flame treatment, though this is more difficult than just waving a butane torch around for a few minutes. There is a precise moment when the flame treatment increases the open sites on the ABS and it becomes bondable, but take it too far and those open sites break down again and the surface actually becomes 'greasy' and even more difficult to bond to. So really to do it properly requires proper equipment, and is a bit beyond the realms of repairing a vehicle panel. *they are, but you're talking ~5% elongation of vinyl vs 3.5% elongation of polyester - ABS is around 50%. This can be part of the problem, because the laminated fibreglass patch will fail long before the ABS does, meaning any patch will always delaminate without much strain. Obviously this is only really an issue if the patch is in an area where the ABS is constantly moving around (try to patch an ABS mudguard and see how long it lasts), on a component that is rigidly mounted and doesn't move much like a front bumper, then the patch will mostly stay in place unless it experiences a large degree of flex at some point (like pulling the bumper off). Trouble is, on a vehicle all panels are subject to vibration, which can start to break the bond and make the repair visible underneath your paint job. It may not actually fall off completely, but it is less than ideal to have a repair showing up later once you've gone through all that effort and expense. All of this is largely irrelevant simply because products exist that are more suitable for the job.
  20. Few days late, and obviously not an EFR; but for what it's worth I've worked on a customer's 67 Impala that had twin GTX3582R's mounted vertically down on the bellhousing. Dry sump, so gravity drainage wasn't an issue, and no bearing problems.
  21. Yeh thats the stuff. It is very easy, you just need to use the right materials. Plastic being a low surface energy and very high flexibility makes it difficult to bond to, so rigid resins like polyester or epoxy (your two typical fibreglass resins) will struggle to bond and will eventually delaminate. These plastic-specific repair products are just as easy to use (even easier in fact), but will do a good job of a permanent repair.
  22. Fibreglass isn't going to stick long term to a plastic bumper, even with very good mechanical key. @PranK if you want to do the job yourself, look for a plastic bumper patch kit for a 2-sided repair. Something like this: https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/3m-flexible-bumper-plastic-patch-automotive-repair-kit-05888 Personally I prefer the kits that use a thermoplastic or aluminium mesh patch that is bonded in place with a 2k polyurethane adhesive, but these self adhesive patches work OK too - just make sure the surface is VERY clean first, which means wipe with isopropyl alcohol, then sand with 240 grit (ignore the instructions not to sand), then wipe again with the isopropyl. Then you can use a flexible plastic filler (Isopon is good, 3M better) like any generic body filler and fill from the back before sanding smooth.
  23. Oooo you are speaking my language! Off to check out your channel
  24. You could give Andy @ Maddog Customs here in Perth a ring and speak to him about building a kit cage that you can then have shipped to you and welded in. I know he was looking at doing this, he hasn't done it yet but he may be open to that. He has atleast built several Silvia cages, so he should have the drawings in his software and be able to do it. Never know, worth having a chat to him about it.
×
×
  • Create New...