sunsetR33

EMU Classic. For what I need it to do I see no reason to upgrade. Link and Haltech would both cost an extra chunk of money for a lot of unutilized features

For that I need an engine overhaul 🤣

The tuner I'm going to is reputable and has a lot of experience tuning road cars as well as race engines. I doubt he'll have an issue with it. I slightly adjusted the idle and cruise AFR targets so they get closer to what they're supposed to be but I'll let the expert correct the tables as I am way too inexperienced.

Idle Lambda target is off by .4 but I reckon the VE table is not correct. If my tuner has no issue using these injectors I will keep them, they are good quality after all

I already have an Apexi. Just wondering if it is worth putting in something new since the Apexi is likely well over 10 years old, if not 15. I know the injectors work but they already run at less than rated fuel pressure to make them work properly and idle is basically 1% duty cycle or less. Could be better

They are too big for a near stock engine. The engine only has GT2860 turbos and adjustable cam gears, no way will I ever go above 500hp like this, if even that. For that a 700cc injector would be plenty.

Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it. I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.

KW only offers a set for the R32 GTR. Popular options are D2 racing, Ksport or Öhlins. I have a D2 Racing coilover set, though I don't know for sure which one.

Fair enough, I am in no way a tire expert so I'm not familiar with all the terms and conditions. I'll definitely note down the AD09 to potentially try in the future. Rain is not too big of a concern for now as I will probably only drive in the rain when I have to. And considering I still lack experience driving the GTR I'd more than likely take it easy too. I have coilovers in the car but as I barely got to drive so far I never bothered to even check if they are adjustable haha. The suspension is almost entirely old and worn as well so I suppose when I eventually fix that in the future that would make a huge difference.

Thanks for the linkie. Certainly always a great deal of help when people post comparisons like these, but I think for now I'll stay away from any semi slicks. I did go ahead and order the sportcontact 7. My buddy has them on his modified A4 and he keeps saying how good they are. For my intended purposes these will probably work real well. I'll report on them once I had the chance to try them out

Talk about noisy. Even when I still had the Tomei under the car I could distinctly hear the tires rolling. And I doubt I ever will need maximum grip like on a track. My GTR will maybe never even see the 600hp mark and I need to get used to the car quite a bit before challenging the limits of its handling. For the next winter storage I think I will get a set of these rubber drive-on thingies that have a tire shaped base. Those supposedly really help prevent flat spots.

Well our climate is definitely way less hot overall and the weather can be quite picky at times. I just know that during normal road use or even spirited drives there is no way I'd be able to consistently stay in the operating temperature, and constantly changing the tire pressure would also be a royal pain.

I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.

Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?

One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out. I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching