180bfj20det

Nizmokid, sounds like bad boost control. Check vacuum leaks, positive pressure piping. Waldo, sounds like compressor surge.

There is no doubt about it. Take it to someone who knows motec ecus well and has experience tuning with them. Go to motec website and get some suggestions and make your mind up from there. MOTEC are very good, but you can actually go worse with it compared to a simpler ecu because motec is complex "Ben Strador".

Nice wheels.

Looks like a half port job to me.... You havent actually taken anything out which causes the majority of restriction. As soon as you get to the divider, this is where material comes out all the way to the valve seat. Inbetween those you have to determine how much material comes out for best flow according to the expected chacteristics of the inlet/exhaust pressure and velocity. I know the inlet looks like its nicely ported (no close up pics, hard to tell) but the exhaust, where the majority of the restriction is on an rb26 is as I said in my opening sentence. Maybe SK will post a nice example of a ported head and if he doesnt, I wouldnt blame him. A lot of work is gone into finding out where to take material out for the best final port. Its not just remove 2mm all round.

Compulsary third party insurance covers the death of third party victims. Dont need full comp to cover other property. So that BMW Series 7 you crashed into can be covered by cheap as chips (relatively) third part property insurance (dont know what the limit is tho) Full comp is not needed unless you want to cover your own car. Everything else is covered by the two abovementioned third party insurances. My datto....hahahahah, full insurance? I pay more in a year than the cars worth. Fact is, accidents rarely happen. They happen more when youre young and dumb and when you drive like a dickhead (and there are too many who do). If full comp is worth more than the car after two years, its not worth it. Drive safely and be it so that accidents rarely happen, then the two 3rd party insurances have you covered well with probablity on your side.

Nice, wish I had had 380hp and an r33 at 18 years of age.... Post a dyno sheet to make me more jealous

PUSSY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! *whats wrong with twin 3037s .....

Looks like rich and retard....but at a low boost, got me stuffed but im no expert. Lose the BOV and boost controller and FPR for now. Then put the car back on the dyno and ofcourse as suggested gap the plugs to 0.8. I think your problems will go away. But youre running less than 10 afr (the graph shows 10 but i think it has gone below and simply reads the minimum on the graph which is 10) which is no good. You lose a lot power at 10afr...well I know I did. Interested to see how this goes.

HKS2530 is almost identical to GT28rs from garrett except for price.

Man are you sure they just didnt have cam timing wrong with the first setup? 25psi for that much power "drool"....exotic fuel and nice turbo setup. What times are you looking for? Nice work...

I want to know :sorcerer:

God dam. Do you have a link to your engine mods and fuel you run? What on earth is that cellulite (multiple disgusting dips) on your new power curve?

OK, Made up an "engine stethescope" which is just a hearing aide for the elderly which I bought from dicksmiths for like 12-13 dollars. Removed the mic, extended it and attached (glued) it onto a clip which I place onto the engine's block. This has been detailed before on some internet site, cant remember which it is, but someone should know if people are interested or I could take pics and show you. Anyway, it works very well. You can hear everything that is going on. However, since I havent had it on a high performance engine yet taken to the limits, I have not heard pinging. I dont think Id be able to advance the ign timing enough on a hilux ute to hear pinging (or would I)? OK, now, people who use this method of detecing pinging on the block with a microphone, dont you find that general engine noise will "flood" the mic with its noises? In opposite respect, attaching a copper tube bolted onto the block which is subsequently t pieced to a hose and plugged into your ears seems to be a better way since the plastic piping will not detect and amplify general noise, youll just hear block noise (see http://bagpuss.swan.ac.uk/horsham-developm...detonation.htm). So is the mic method any good? Im just scared to miss the pinging and let it go boom. Cheers

Take it to panel beater, get it fibre-glassed and sprayed. Or do it all yourself!!!! You may save yourself a lot of cash.

Yes, I agree and this is why Im confused and thus posted my log here. This is a stock ecu, no remap. One more thing, the fuel pump makes all find of weird noises sometimes when I first prime it. From what i have seen, stock ecus run very rich on boost, like 10afr, this is no where near this. Im waiting on new fuel pump..... BUT: shouldnt engine damage be occuring at this afr I logged????

Car does not misfire. What do you mean by earth mod? Id like to put a fuel pressure gauge on it, but dont have one here in france but like you im betting its fuel pump. I havent taken out the injectors to see if one injector is playing up, but i doubt that anyway.

Ok, This is a stock s13 CA18det (euro version, Im in france at the moment). Only mods are 3" exhaust with screamer. Car runs 12 psi. I have a feeling that ever since I placed the exhaust on the car that the car behaved differently when i mashed the peddle. My symptom is that from 2500rpm to 3000rpm, the car accelerates well but from 3000rpm there is a big dip in power where then it picks up again slowly. Being scared that this is due to an old tired fuel pump creating a lean-out I logged with my wide band sensor (innovate lm1). Below is a log in 4th gear from 2500rpm (frist arrow) to 6500rpm (last arrow). Note I would have rpm but I dont know how to hook this up properly and log it (SK help ). If anyone cares to help me hook the rpm sensor up and how to log I would be happy. During the log, the throttle was fully open. Luckily I got to do this on a race track because it would be impossible anywhere else apart from a dyno where they charge in france more for just one pull than two hours on a race track.... Now, first of all, those AFRs look to me as very dangerous. I cant hear pinging but that doesnt mean its not occuring and I dont have chasis ears. But can you see that significant lean-out occuring at the beginning of the log?? I bet this is why is dies in the ass at 3000rpm. I read on the freshalloy forum that stock nissans run towards the 14afr on boost for emission control but I find this hard to beleive The car cruises/part throttle at 16afr. Idles at 15.5-16. The car has been driven like this for a long time....i dont know how the engine is hanging together... I have a new fuel pump on its way and will check out the afrs after its installement. In the meantime, if anyone could analyse my log and make suggestions/observations (i know now not to drive the car on boost) and also obviously help me make this rpm convertor functional so I can log RPM. First arrow = 2500rpm Second arrow = 6500rpm WOT during full log.

Sheesh, so like 600rwkw in rwd drive on pump fuel from a 2.7L????? Hmmm, i dont know how people are getting these figures on street fuel....are these right? If so i want to know what their secrets are...id love to have 444rwkw from my FJ20 on street fuel

On dyno and street in 4th . To tell you the truth, I dont really know when it comes in by on the street in the first 3 gears, i dont have time to see as it just flies through the revs so thats why i only know in 4th gear. Apologies to those who were confused. I will mention quoted figures are in fourth But the person wants to know whether its big lag, I dont think so. Its laggy, but not big laggy and its nice* to drive on the street bt 2-3000rpm. *Nice may not be nice to you

My guess is not tuned properly or non genuine turbo or screwed engine. I run 0.82 on my stock fj20 at it sees 10psi at about 2500rpm and full boost at ~4500 as mentioned before. Ive seen an rb25 on the same dyno as mine (pits matt spry) with 3540 0.82 and by 4000rpm on had 14 psi adn was beautiful to drive, though not a gcg highflow...but much more powerful.

FJ20ET stock, not mine (mine is FJ20E ), full boost 18 psi at 4750rpm and 1 bar a 4500rpm. Mine same thing though 25 psi at 4750rpm. Running 0.82 housing. Being a 6 with 2.5L, probs around the 4500rpm mark. Woohoo, turbos dont usually make good power till before this rpm anyways. Youll be surprised as to how nice it is. But yeah response wont compare to GCG high flow. But get a 3540 I love it

More info plus some ratios http://www.az-zbum.com/information.transmission.shtml http://www.phattransmissions.com/200SXWiki...lSpecifications http://www.datsuns.com/Tech/datsun_transmissions.htm

Im not sure what they are, just that they're nismo turbos and he calls them nismo n1s.

HHMMMMM, My brother's GTR tuned with nismo n1s by matthew spry has i would say an identical power curve to yours. GTRs are laggy, they feel crisp because of their multiple throttle bodies. I dont know how the car drives, but from your dyno graph, everything looks perfect apart from maybe lack on some top end power, but maybe the extra top end on my bros gtr is due to cam gears (set for more overlap). GTR running nismo n1s, 550cc injectors and 18 psi. Dyno was pits before recalibration. But compare power curve and youll see its very similar.

In a bid to archive this info myself or to have it as a sticky, it would be nice to have as much info as possible on gearboxs. Which ones are interchangeable? Ie apparently rb20de = rb20det. Things like which ones pull and push type. Gearbox gear widths, bearing diameters, etc. HP rating through experience (torque rating??). Add please. RB20DE RB20DET Same as RB25DE box ( i think) Same as SR boxes too i think RB25DE RB25DET RB26DETT RB30E RB30ET GTST4 box