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I think that most of you dont actually realise that gone are the days where two smaller turbos give better responsiveness than one. Physics will also support this fact and sorry to those who want to try and argue against it, because physics can't be changed. The fact is, with two turbos you have twice the loss energy required to spin the turbine, leaks, twice the oil getting into your compressed air (since no turbo is 100% seal-proof). OK, since they're smaller turbos (compared to lets say one big one), the losses will be smaller through each turbo, but not combined. That taken into consideration, it is impossible for two small turbos to be more responsive than one larger turbo which of the same horsepower rating of the two turbos combined. Now you may argue against this, and I will most likely take your side if you chose to implement the T88 or T78 as your examples. These are old-school plain bearing pieces of crap which make the horsepower only in the big revs. The reason is because they are old school crap turbos. These days we have BB turbos and gone are the days where two is better than one for responsiveness. You can see that this logic has been adpated to by in commercial cars. Take the new subaru B4 for example. Its predesessor had two sequential turbos for responsiveness. Now it only has one BB making more power, more response (yes power ealier) and more mid range power. There is a GTR going around that exploits this very fact too. It has a single BB GT30 and runs in the tens with no loss in drivability, certainly less than a pair of 2530s. Twin is old school and you only ever need to run twin if one BB turbo cant provide you with the power you want. Considering garette make a BB 1000 hp turbo, that rules out most cases. This is my experience anyway. But before you hammer my comments, ask yourself if you have ever driven a GTR with a GT30 and compared its drivability to something with twin turbos that can also do 10s.

My bro got them from Banzai motorsports for ~$2500 I think (ANTS?). Cams... what size do you recommend? Its true that the GTR has piss small cams standard (unlike the FJ20). Personally, I think a GT3540 plus a set of 272s would be nice!

What's the serial number meant to be for the 33 and 34?

Yep, this is the way to go. High compression low boost. Its awesome. You always feel like your car is powerful because of the power delivery. Change your compression later when you want it to go faster but suffer the typical off boost doughyness.

L20B is a great sounding engine on full song with webers. Its a great old skool engine and such deserves this respect. I had one, but it went like crap. But you can make good horsepower out of these engines. Ive seen 200 rwkW with standard rods, actually standard everything with just forgies running like 30psi. But ask yourself: are you after horsepower reliably, or are you wanting to build a classic? The L20 is a piece of sh#$ compared to the CA or SR and would not even touch an FJ. These latter 2 can make 200rwKw reliably at 14 psi and not that expensive to build. Changing cranks, blah blah blah, what for, to geet beaten by a 1600 with a stock N/A CA18??? Not worth it and you'll be the one biting your fingers when you lose. However, if you are after that particular L20-with-weber sounds and wanting a classic, then go right ahead. Classics rock, but Im preformance biased.

Pinging a layman's term for preignition. Preignition is just what the name denotes: your air/fuel mix ignites in your combustion chamber before the intended spark form your ignition system. Not good. To solve tis problem, first make sure you run 98 ron. Second, dont run more boost than standard unless your tuning it and voila. Or run more boost with a cooler but remember that pinging occurs before it is audible to the ear which means engine damage does too. So dont be like a lot of those other pimple-faced sitting as far back as possible in their car and get your car tuned, or be conservative with boost. Besides, running more boost wont give you necessarily more power in some cases.

Gees, thanks for the info. Guess they're not 34s cause A/R is marked and plus there is no divider for wastegate gases...but they sure as hell spin easily. They're actualy meant toi be NISMO N1s. Could these be BB?

Matt Spry is located on the Gold Coast in Ernest. If you need his number, ask me and I can give it to you. I would have your car towed to a reputable tuner as driving on the Wolf start map was impossible for me and who knows what damage you could do to your engine by running it on an unknown map. You can get cheap A/F ratio meters but they're not accurate. The wolf actualy has function for this now. So you can do it this way and this should be quite accurate. It should be good enough to get your car up and running if you know how to and are risking to tune it on the road (read dangerously stupid). Bite the bullet, take it to the dyno first up, save yourself a lot of hassle and trust me that you'll be one happy chappy when your car goes hard after the tune and you alive and have your licence. Cheers

AAAhh, and my bro started to get shitty because I wanted to take pics of the turbos side by side (well wasnt really the fact that I was taking the pic, just that I wanted ti align them properly so you can actually compare them). Here they are the pics. Pic 1 Clockwise from bottom s13 SR20 t25G nismo N1 standard R32 GTR t28 Pic 2 Clockwise from bottom s13 SR20 t25G nismo N1 standard R32 GTR t28 Pic 3 Left nismo N1 right OEM R32 T28 Pic 4 L s13 SR20 t25G middle nismo N1 right OEM R32 T28 Enjoy

The wolf certainly wont lose its memory. You have to make changes via the controller or laptop in order for this to happen and this wont happen by accident. Get some new coils, try to start it, dont boot it cause you dont know of the previous tune, whether it was done by a numbskull or someone as skillful as Matt Spry. So best take it for a dyno run to make sure A/F ratios are safe. Small bother, but could save you big dollars if there is something wrong. Contrary to many people's opinions, the Wold3dv4 is a very good unit and I run one in my car. Plus its affordable.

Hey, Im installing n1 turbos on my bros gtr. How can we tell if they are 33 or 34? There's a tag on it which some numbers and stuff, can this you help? Any website with good info on the N1 turbos?

Yeah good idea! It will give you an indication of what you can do with the Wolf. For $1100, theres no better alternative.

Hey guys time has come to use the eletronic boost control capacities of the wolf3d. As such I am in search of a competitively-priced electronic boost solenoid. Where can I get one and how much about are they? (Im on the Gold Coast). My tuner is the one and only, Matt from PITS! Cheers

I will not quote on other ECUs since I have never had experience with them. However, I can tell you that the Wolf3Dv4 is fully programmable via the hand controller or a lap top and you can make real time changes while driving. I would assume that most other reputable ECUs have the same capabilties since after all, you must be able to make real-time changes while driving or you could never tune your car (ie road/dyno tuning) properly. Road tuning is dangerous and not worth it. You have to tune you car are different load points and really for this the dyno is the best and safest solution. How would you measure your A/F ratio anyway?

Hey guys, I have been running 12 psi on my car for a couple of weeks now. In the last couple of days, my car hits peak boost at around 3500rpm then drops of 1000rpm later to 10 psi where it stays. Before it used to hold 12psi all the way. What's going on (sounds like turbo wines before making boost and coming off boost)? Oil pressure fine!

Can't remember if I oiled it up or not...mmm prolly did tighten a bit at first. Ill get a new one and follow your recommendations but first I just wanna be sure I have put on the right filter. Cheers

No. But it does not seem to leak from the fittings. Nevertheless, good idea and I will aplly some teflon tape to definately rule out the fittings. Looks like the O-ring to me where the leaks originate from. Does anyone know what oil filter is best for fitment on the revolution remote oil filter kit? Thanks guys

Ever since I bought new from revolution automotive a remote oil filter kit, my remote oil filter setup leaks. I cant really identify where it is leaking from because the remote oil filter is difficult to see without taking it out of the car which I will do soon (ie extend to oil lines and run the car to identify the problem). Has anyone experienced this problem or knows maybe what it is?

Sorry Im new and have already posted this topic, please refer to other post :wassup: