nizmo_freek

Does your new dump pipe happen to have a wastegate and turbo gas seperator?? im thinking that possibly it isnt a very good quality dump pipe and that somehow the seperator is blocking the wategate flap from fully opening hence causing it to overboost and blow the turbo!

Glad to hear you got it fixed dude!

Very nice mate, midnight purple's my fav colour on r33 gtr's (so is sonic silver lol) , so you got any plans for it??

Me and 5 other guys are using Peter at Amec at the moment for our power fc group buy, seems to be no hassel so far, great communication!

Hehe no worries.Yourve got to agree tho, there both great cars and nothing in the same price range can compete with them

It sounds like something to do with the AFM's to me, when you unplugg the AFM on a gtst the car wont drive past 2500rpm-3000rpm and will coff and splutter which sounds like similar symptoms as what your car is having.

So your saying that r33's dont handle well and not worth turning into a drift car?? just because not many people use them dosent mean they cant be a good or "better" drift car than a r32, maybe drifters dont use them because the are dearer than a old r32?? Maybe drifters use r32's instead of r33's because they are cheap to buy in the 1st place and are easier to get cheap parts for?? Mate i dont want to start an argument with you about which car is better, look at the previous posts, some say the r32 is better, some say the r33 is better, in most cases it will come down to what car the driver prefers, and in my case i prefer the r33 over the r32!IMO the r33 is the better overall package, i was just expressing my opinions and experiances with each car, just like everyone else.

Yes i was comparing the r32 sedan (1989 so was the lightest sedan) to my r33 coupe, the 89 r32 sedan should handle the same as a newer heavier model r32 coupe, so i dont see why that isnt a fair comparision?? What does drifting have to do with it? it is completly different to the usual track/grip driving, drift cars are setup to slide, track cars are setup to go fast round corners, so the handling abilties of say a drift setup r32 vs a track setup r33 are going to be completly different,so i dont see were drifting comes into it?? If you did setup a r33 for drift i dont see why it would be worse than a r32??There was a series1 r33 gts25t that was very competive in the drift scene in n.z a few years back and there is also a series1 r33 4door being used for drift at the moment aswell.

Older model r32 gtst coupes are around 1280kg (my 1989 r32 gtst 4door auto with sunroof weighed 1320kg exactly) and the newer r32 gtst coupes are 1320kg (the newer models are from 91 i think and on and are heavier because they have extra side intrusion beams or something along those lines), r33 gts25t coupes are 1360kg (as claimed by nissan) which is only 40kg heavier than a later model r32, the extra torque and power of the rb25det more than makes up for the added weight anyway.

I can assure you my old r32 was not a "shit example", it would have been one of the better example's in N.Z in my opinion, every other r32 out there on the market in n.z today is usually an old ruggered peice of trash, you very really find a good example of a r32 gtst in n.z anymore, my old car was a 1989 model and had 125xxxkms on the clock when i got it and it was in excellent condition!! so i would hardly call my old r32 a shit example.Have a look at the link in my signature and tell me if you think it was a shit example?? Have you ever driven a r33 gts25t?? when i said the r32 feels "sloppy and soft" i was comparing it to the r33, the r33 feels more sporty!! i wasnt trying to piss anyone off i was just expressing my opnion (thats what a forum is for after all isnt it??) I also had a resonably well setup suspension setup in the r32, BC Coilovers, front and rear strut braces, nolathane upper arm bushes it did handle extremly well so no complaints there (the spring rates were a bit harsh for daily driving). Im not bagging r32's, they are great cars!,i was simple having my say and expressing my opinion,as i said earlier the r32 and r33 are both great cars!

I dont see why everyone "thinks" the r32 gtst is more agile than a r33 gts25t?? In my opinion (i have owned both) the r33 handles alot better than the r32 stock, the r32 felt very sloppy and soft which made it feel unstable on the road in a way, the r33 handles alot better, it is stiffer (one of the stiffest stock cars ive been in) and feels more chuckable than the r32 (alot of people will disagree with me on that statement but i am just expressing my opnion), it is alot more stable at higher speeds and you can throw it around corners and it will grip ,give it some gas and it will pull out of the corner really nice and smooth, its feels tight and safe. In the straight line the r33 gts25t is the better car once again, (most of the quoted times i have seen are: r32 gtst 0-100 = 7 sec, 1/4mile = 15.00sec, r33 gts25t 0-100= 6.3 sec, 1/4mile = 14.30, but i guess in the real world it comes down to the driver and the condition of the car. Just my 2c R33 FTW , i have nothing against r32's by the way, there both great cars.

Heres my old auto r32 gtst 4door on the dyno, made 140rwkw with full 3" exhaust, FMIC, pod and standard boost (9.2psi) , By the way the guy doing the dyno run was a bit of a tool, i explained to him how to use the hold button on the gearbox to lock the gearbox into a certain gear (push the hold button on, then you can use the gearstick to select whatever gear you want, make sure you have overdrive off, 1 = 1st gear, 2 = 2nd gear, D = 3rd gear (make sure when you go into D that overdrive button is off because if it is on and you shift into D it will go straight into 4th/last gear. O/D = 4th gear.But he didnt use the hold button and thats why on the video you can hear when he steps on the gas and the gearbox kicks down a gear. http://s34.photobucket.com/albums/d128/niz...=Picture193.flv

Opps sorry, pics are working now

Ypur pics dont seem to be working mate, i would really like to see them

I agree with everyone else that has posted and said dont get a r33 gts25t, if you really really have to have a skyline start with the most basic and cheapest model, try and find a r32 gts in resonable condition. When i was 15 i bought my 1st skyline ,a r32 gts auto (rb20de) it was a great car to learn to drive in (even tho it was auto) it was very reliable, looked good, wasnt fast at all but it got the job done, the only parts i ever replaced on that was the middle air vent, it was a good looking and reliable 1st car. When i was about 16 i sold the gts and bought a 1989 gtst auto (rb20det) for the same price that i got the gts for but it was in much better condition, for its age it was pretty mint and had only done 125xxxkms which is stuff all for a 89 model, that was a great 2nd car. It wasnt very quick when it was standard but once you get the exhaust done they go pretty well, they can be very dangerous in the wet if you dont how to control the car once it loses traction, so i wouldnt recomend that as a 1st car either. I sold the gtst about a half a year ago and bought a manual 1998 r33 gts25t (I am now 18), it is a awsome car and once again will it will bite you in the ass very badly in the wet if you dont know what your doing. It is resonable cheap to run, gets anywhere from 450-500kms to a full tank depending on how you drive it, and so far has been very reliable. So what im trying to say is start at the bottom and work your way up,dont buy the fastest car you can buy if you have little to no driving experience in a powerfull RWD, and if you really need a skyline for your 1st car get a r32 gts

Exactly what i was thinking!

Have a read on this thread, r32 gts, fully stripped = 1100kg, you should be able to get your car pretty close to that weight without to much effort. http://www.skylinesdownunder.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=52581

Some 40th aniversary's were also made in the last months of 1997, and yes it does use some r34 engine parts such as the CAS (crank angle sensor, or cam angle sensor whatever you want to call it) so upgrading cams could become difficult, tomei poncams for the r33 gts25t (non 40th aniversary) wont fit the 40th aniversary as the cams use a different key compared to the normall r33 cams, hence why it uses a r34 CAS.there was a thread about it a while ago were some guys poncams wouldnt fit his rb25det because it was a 40th anv model. Hehe sorry to hijack your thread

Yes thats correct

The optional 40th aniversary wing is just a gtr wing.Most of the 40th aniversary's (including mine) just have the standard series 2 wing.

I too wonder what the quickest rb powered car is, im pretty sure there is a full tube (or could just be tubbed) 350z in the states using a rb26 doing low 7's or high 6's,there was a article about it in one of the old SPEED magazines i 'think', correct me if im wrong about those times please lol

Just buy the wing without the brakelight then take the standard brake light out of your factory series 2 wing, go to a panelbeater or fiberglass specialist and ask them to put the brake light in the spoiler, shouldnt really be a big job.

The standard ecu does not have a fuel cut, it has a airflow cut (excess airflow protection, rich and retard, whatever you want to call it) if the ecu sense's to much air being sucked into the engine it will retard the timing and pump in more fuel.

S2 is the best for sure!! fibreglass kits on skylines look like complete rice IMO, no offence to anyone thats got a kit, some do look alright but there just not my style really