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jmac

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Posts posted by jmac

  1. Initial bite VERY good. I have to re-adjust my reflex in traffic, sometimes getting more stoppage than I intended, though that could also be having the fluid bled properly. Pedal feel is excellent for street.

    My previous pads were Bendix Heavy Dutys and the QFM's initial bite is better than these and WAY better than my old Endless EuroX pads. The Endless were awesome once they had some heat into them though, but the QFMs are comparable definitely - tried a couple of big stops on a quiet road last night.

    I won't give a final word til I've put them through their paces at QR though.

    I'll post pics of dust after a few days driving.

  2. Just cleaned the car today (it was pouring rain so I just squirted some detergent on and went crazy with the sponge!) so I'll keep you guys posted on the dust.

    These things pull up so well.... won't be able to comment on how they feel after 5 hot laps until November though. :laugh:

    Even if I only get 12 months out of them, at ~$250 for the set WHO CARES????

  3. Recently upgraded the brakes on my GT-T. Just thought I should mention especially the pads I'm using, which thus far perform well and came in significantly cheaper than some other options I was looking at (i.e. Endless).

    They're made by QFM (Queensland Friction Materials), a company I'd never heard of but apparently those in the know reckon they're pretty damn good. I'm using the A.1.RM compound, which is not their most aggressive compound but perfect for street/trackday use. Temp range is apparently 0-700 and coefficient of friction is comparable to the Endless pads with a similar range (CCX, etc.).

    The best part is they came in at less than $300 for a set, front and rear. Thus far they perform well, very good from cold with a better pedal feel than the previous Endless pads I've tried (EuroX and NA-R). Not noisy at all either. Can't really comment on dust 'cos my wheels are filthy at the moment... Looking forward to giving them a nice workout at QR in November (thanks MountainRunner).

    Otherwise I've gone down the route many here probably have, which is DBA 4000 slotted rotors on the front (RDA don't make 310mm front rotors for the R34 GT-T), RDA slotteds on the rear, braided lines and Motul RBF 600 fluid. Feels pretty damn good so far.

    Anyone else here have any experience with the QFM pads?

    ========

    Here's the company blurb:

    Queensland Friction Materials P/L is an Australian owned and operated company, specialising in the manufacture of disc brake pads. Key product features include; exceptional performance and pedal feel, low dust, long life with virtually NO disc rotor wear, and excellent cold stopping performance. Non asbestos formulations for automotive and industrial applications, which surpass performance requirements of Australian design rule 31. QFM Disc brake pads are used and recommended by leading Australian brake specialists.

    Address: 5/34 Lawrence Drive NERANG QLD 4211

    Phone: 07 5596 1099

    Facsimile: 07 5596 3347

    Email: [email protected]

  4. I have the FK452s on the rear. They replaced Bridgestone S03s. My opinion is that they are at least equal to the S03s in dry grip, and perform better in the wet. They are quiet-running but squeal heaps more. :)

    I looked at the K104s too, it was very interesting to compare them in the shop. The Falkens have a MUCH stiffer, wider and more solid sidewall construction, to the point were you can get away with going down 10-20mm in width. I'm now running 235/40 on a 18x9 rim and they don't look undersized. The K104s felt flimsy in comparison.

    The guy in the shop said the K104 is a pretty good tyre too but very sensitive to pressure. Run them over or under-inflated and both life and performance suffer.

  5. I would suggest that a lot of places are NOT girl friendly being inhabited by spotty fully sik adolescents who will try to bullshit you. It's happened to my girlfriend... :P

    $500 will get you a good unit and the sound quality is good from all the mainstream brands these days. I'd also suggest hopping on the various websites (Sony, Pioneer, Alpine, JVC, Kenwood etc) and getting some idea of the models you're after, then go into the shop and be definite about what you're looking for and actually use the unit. It's good you want it to be compatible with an iPod, that'll narrow things down a bit.

    Some look good and are easy to use with simple knobs etc, others look crap and are covered in tiny buttons, very hard to use in a bumpy Skyline.

    As for the suggestion about a wearing a nice top..... that's up to you........ :D You'll probably get a better price too if you seem pretty sure about what you want.

    Good luck!!

  6. Noticed recently that during sustained high-load runs in 4th and 5th gears by boost seems to "hunt", as in it'll hit the max boost setting in the Boost Control menu on the PowerFC but then drop back a little and build again (see pic).

    It's not boost cut or a coil problem (been there done that) but it *just* backs off enough to be noticeable.

    Any suggestions whether I could change any boost control settings (duty cycle adjustment?) or is this more a mechanical/wastgate issue?

    Current setup is as in my sig, set to 1.1 kg/cm2, duty cycle 66. It's a reliable tune otherwise with no issues.

    Thanks guys!

    post-17890-1155131640.jpg

  7. Hi Jmac

    Im using the same size tyre as ur for my front but my rear is 265/35/18 with 34GTR original rims on my GTT. wondering whether the rear will be too narrow (Easily spin the wheel) if i gone with the same size like u to compare with my existing tyre combination. The reason is i intend to purchase a grippier tyre but the 265/35/18 is way off my budget. Now contemplating whether i should use a narrower size with better grip tyre or go for cheaper but wide. In terms of balance and handling for FR, which would u reckon to be a better choice?

    Thanks for ur help in advance...cheers!

    Hi need4...

    There seem to be two main arguments here. I asked a similar question a couple of months ago:

    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=110885&hl=

    There seem to be two schools of thought.

    1. Go for wider tyres on the rear, the theory being that people seem to be fitting wider rims to the rear (in my case 8" front, 9" rear). Try to keep the sidewalls as vertical as possible, and having that extra width on the rear theoretically gives you better power-down, ALTHOUGH having a lower-profile tyre will compromise this.

    2. Go for the same size front and rear and compromise on the vertical-ness of the sidewalls (in my case a 235 or 245 width would be the correct size for the front, and a slight stretch on the rear). This has two advantages - better front-rear balance of the car as the aspect ratios are the same, i.e. less understeer, and also you can rotate the tyres (they obviously have to get re-fitted on the rims) to the front if necessary.

    I picked option 2, mainly because going down from a 255/35 to a 235/40 saved me $120 and I can rotate to the front if I wish. I also picked option 2 for my semi-slicks because understeer sucks, and fitting as wide a tyre as possible on the front maximises braking performance too.

    GTT/GTSt Skylines are a front-heavy, RWD car so fitting a significantly bigger tyre on the rear won't help the handling balance much. But if drags are your thing then by all means squeeze a 265 back there, but going down to 17" rims would be a better move...

    IMHO the practice of fitting the 1" wider rims to the rear is a cosmetic thing. It does look pretty nice with the extra dish at the back.

  8. My workshop actually had two front ones lying around, and I had to source the rears from a wrecker. Tracked them down within 24 hrs. These are readily available with so many people pulling the stock suspension out and putting coilovers in. I'm not 100% sure but I think R33 caps fit, so you shouldn't have too much of a problem...

  9. In other news I've now got Falken FK452 on the rear for street driving (235/40 R18). They're pretty good... pretty close in grip to the Bridgestone S03's when they were new, though I had a lot less rwkw then too. They squeal more. Not much of a chance to try them in the wet yet, it being a drought here in Brisbane and all.

    Pretty good given the S03's were ~$500 and the FK452's were ~$300.

  10. I just got a quote for Bridgestone RE55S and Federal 595RS

    Both are priced the same

    235/45/17 $369

    255/40/17 $399

    Im sure I can get better prices if I shop arround some more

    but why would I go for the federal's if they are the same price as the bridgestones??

    $399 is a pretty good price for the Bridgestones in that size.... You might do $50 or so better if you know a guy who knows a guy...

    I guess the only reason to go Federals is if they're harder and will last longer, maybe. Although I'm not aware of anyone who's tested them back-to-back against the other semis.

    (I wrote in to Motor magazine and they reckon they will do this in November - have a "track day tyre test")

    My RE55s probably have one track day left in them now. They've done two all-day track days (maybe 140-150 laps of Queensland Raceway) and three days at Mt Cotton Hillclimb, plus street driving there and back. They're pretty soft but I guess when you add up all those laps it's not too bad! :blush:

  11. Just have to put a word in for Scott and the guys at TyreZone Capalaba for sorting my (QR turn 1 induced) suspension dramas out! I highly recommend seeing these guys for a track day alignment, and I believe they will do you a deal on setting you up for track then getting you back to more tyre-friendly settings again for the road. Plus they can sort out most brands of tyres (semis or street tyres) too.

    /PLUG :thumbsup:

  12. Jmac, hope that "extreem" toe out issue is not to serious 0 So what was it like braking at the end on the main straight with that funky rear end "allignment"??

    Well JC, it actually didn't feel TOO bad (for those just tuning in, jmac managed to drop his left rear wheel off the kerb at turn 1 at approx 140km/h and now has about 10mm extra toe-in on that wheel which he doesn't really need). It pulled up straight, and felt worse with cold tyres. I've also scrubbed that tyre pretty badly but it'll live. Kept improving my times anyway though!!!.... I got my clubman time down from a 1:07 in May to a 1:02 today, and sprint down from 1:02 to a low 1:00 (although I was hoping I broke the 1min barrier in the last session before I left).

    So since then the car's been up on the hoist..... it looks as though the control arms are ok but apparently I *might* have bent the subframe. Which is $$$ ouch grab your ankles territory. Though I'm getting Scott (Tyrezone) to look at it tomorrow - he reckons they're pretty tough and often the adjustment has just been whacked and it'll be ok. I'm not holding my breath though - every time I look at my car lately it winds up costing me $500. All for the sake of running wide in turn 1 by about 15cm...

    ANYWAY I'm looking forward to the photos guys! :/ Thanks again to Paul for organising yet another great day that ran smoothly with HEAPS of track time.

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