WetGTR

Can't believe you would use a Ferrari machanic, unless you have a Ferrari of course. Why not use a machanic or engine builder that specialise in RB26...... just like the one you are working on. Maybe then you won't have to tell him his job and by the way, how to build an RB26

Another one for the Nizmo G-Max twin Plate.. No rattles! Awsome grip! Easy driving! I have 417awkw in my GTR and it has never slipped.....and it feels just like a stock clutch

Buying a new crank is the safest and I believe the best solution if you want your engine to last. Not sure how much extra on top of machining a new crank would cost, but I think its worth it, or you might be back where you started.....another rebuild- its happened to so many of us

I bought the Volk TE37 for my GTR R33. The spec you need are: 114.3 PCD, 9.5" wide (these will fit 265, 275 very nicely) & @+19 offset. a lower offset will mean a deeper dish. I got the lowest offset. Here is a picture of one with 19 x 9.5 with +19 offset.

There are only 2 places you can trust to do a perfect job every time, they are: Fulcrum Suspensions (talk to Barry) 46 Webster Road, STAFFORD 4053, Queensland, Australia Ph: 3356 6733 Leda Suspension Services (talk to Bruce) Unit 5, Cnr Johnstone Rd & Belconnen Crs Brendale QLD 4500 ph: (07) 3205 3165 Cost @95.00 for a 4 wheel alignment.

Is it a true 3.5" system? Does it measure up 3.5" inside the muffler? A picture would be nice, even if it's on the car.

Another one for the Redline - What an Oil. The one you use is the lightweight shockproof MT90 75W90 you need close to 4 Litres. Cost @$120.00 Not cheap but it's worth every cent

If something is not in the original position, it is defectable. For example, if the car came with a top mount intercooler and was changed to a front mount - it's defectable & visa vera. Depending on which state's but I think you are allowed 1 modification before you can get defected, eg cold air intake or intercooler. This is relating to any modifcation other an standard

This might be stupid and just obvious but with high power engines, if you don't drive them hard, won't they last almost as long as a stock motor? How's this situation: Say you're going on a long drive - just take it real easy....... granny driving it The rest of the time, well..... like you usually do or should be doing.

I've got one running in my car, very happy with it!!!! My current setup is 417awkw and an Autronics handles this very well. Just have to find a really good tuner that can tune an Autronic on an RB26. The model I have is the SMC, there is the SMC2 I think, but they just have the tractional control and launch control abilities. I don't think there is anything else that is diferent.

Thanx for that, let me know how you go

Can you still get these batteries?

What type of exhaust manifold is it? Stock or aftermarket?

I think $150 is a good price to install an alarm. When I bought mine through ebay :Oops: they wanted like $350.00 to install. No way I'm paying that since I only purchased the alarm for $170.00 I installed it myself but I did get a Car Alarm installer to install the drivers door lock actuator which locks the door when you press the alarm keypad. This was done for $60.00 - not too bad I think It took a while to install but took my time and I had remote starting so took a little longer, but its perfect now.

Hey this is a clever idea I agree, this would work as you really only need a cat on the screamer pipe for legal reason's but mufflers and such are for noise reduction. The wastegate will not open at 4000rpm with no load so this will pass a db test. You get the best of both world here, legal and a screameeeerrrr :wassup:

The concept of screamer is when the wastegate dumps the excess exhaust gases to atmosphere. This is why it is called a screamer pipe. It is recommended to plump back as far away from the turbo as possibble. This will reduce turbulence. For legal reasons this must be before the Cat converter. Hope this helps

proengines, this is exactly what this post needed, some information about the processes required to machine and prep an engine rebuild, so no hijack at all. Just some information for some people that might be thinking the same as me (if only proengines were in my state and not the ACT), I have just sent my engine (head and block), an RB26 interstate. From Brisbane to Melbourne and it just cost me $155.00 That is with them bringing down a tilt tray truck with a pallet jack to my house as I had no way of getting the engine onto the truck, otherwise it would of cost me $111.00 VERY GOOD VALUE I beleive anyway It also took only 2 days to get there - now thats fast!! The company that I used was Concord Park Pty.Ltd Ph: (07) 3271 5555 and they can pickup from any state and deliver to any state. BTW you don't need an account with them but you need to have it on a pallet. I used a plastic one so it wouldn't break and I boxed it in using other wooden pallets. Some of the other prices I got were @$450.00 Hope this helps

proengines, you might be able to shine some light...... Some people believe that machining and working on one engine is the same as any other engine, refering to balance this, blue print that, tighten this up to this torque rate, etc. Do the RB engine require something extra being an advanced motor in technology terms or is just the same as any other engine? Is there special things that need to be looked at when machining, for example never machine a crank because even though you can it creates extra wear on other parts.

ylwgtr2, do you know the do's and don't for machining RB motors or maybe what people should be looking out for if parts were sent to a machining shop? Another thing, why is it that when people build rb engines, some last and some don't and lets assume all have a good tune by a reputable tuner? I dare say it's got to be something engine builders are checking, going over or something machine shops are doing? Have you any idea's or has anybody else got some feedback.....

Interesting you say that. It would be nice if someone here could do or advise on machining, boring, head work, etc Maybe the does or don't or things to look out for

Thought I start a thread relating to people who have the knowledge to disassemble and assemble their own engine’s and want to rebuild and or upgrade their RB bottom ends or Heads. Now any engine builder who has done good work will always say that a good machine shop is the key to success but a lot of machine shop’s say they can do the work, maybe so but were looking for machine shops who are experienced at RB motors. Who has built their own engine’s and found a good (experienced) machine shop? To make this clear for some people, were not looking at mechanics or workshops/performance shops. This is about where they get their cranks balanced, grinded, head work done and so forth

I'II be there too!! Maybe get some pointers and some help with my main bearings problem

Stupid me, didn't even think to look around Yatala to see if you were there. Should of walked around and checked it out. Hopfully next time were able to catch up. Cars going off the road now, main bearing problem. Hopefully get it going as soon as possible but I think it will take 4 weeks to be put back together and running again, not happy......