mazgtr

Ive been wanting to update my seats for a while. But if R34GTR seats are that much, id be more likely to get my standard R32GTR seats re-trimmed and re-bolstered in dead cow...

Yeah sounds like ill have to book it into the workshop then. Cheers.

Its always done this since i bought it. I noticed that the 3 times i took it for a test drive from the dealership it was allready warmed up, so started for me fine on the 3 seperate occasions. Ive actually just tried driving off while its still warming up, and the car backfires a lot, hunts badley, revs as rough as guts, and most times stalls itself, even when up to speed. 3-4mins of warming it up, and its like a butter smooth stock GTR. Im guessing the Power FC in it hasnt been tuned for cold start good enough? Does the Apexi Power FC replace the stock GTR ECU or work with it? Does anyone know which is responsible for cold starts?

I need to buy some Gunmetal Grey touch up paint, i know the code is KH2, just wondering the best place in Sydney to buy some? Should i just call a Nissan dealership? Cheers

Since ive had my GTR its been a bad cold start car. If the car has been sitting for more than 8hours the car wont idle by itself without stalling. The car has 264 degree cams and a Apexi Power FC. I have to sit and rev the car at 1500-2000RPM for about 2-3mins until it comes up to temp, then it'll idle by itself. Has anyone else had any trouble like this? Is it something i shouldnt have to put up with? Cheers.

I dont honestley think many P platers can afford to buy and afford to insure a Honda NSX. They'll always be a couple of cars that arent turboed, supercharged or v8's that are quick. This just means that rich P platers will still be allowed to drive fast cars and get around the intended law, the poor will not. Sounds like a good life lesson....

Since ive had my GTR its been a bad cold start car. If the car has been sitting for more than 8hours the car wont idle by itself without stalling. I have to sit and rev the car at 1500-2000RPM for about 2-3mins until it comes up to temp, then it'll idle by itself. Has anyone else had any trouble like this? Is it something i shouldnt have to put up with? Cheers.

NSW P-Platers have it tougher boys. 3 years on your P's, no V8's, no Turbo's and no Superchargers. None of this power to weight thingy, if its got any of those things you cant drive it Period!!! So a Vic -P-platers can drive a R32GTST, but not a NSW P-Plater. Also a NSW P-Plater cant drive a car with ANY mechanical mods, exhaust/suspension/wheels/ecu. I got off my P's long ago, so i love that the days of a 18year old rich boy in a Twin Turbo Supra or R34 GTR passing me on P plates are gone.. I think the last batch of P platers that got their licenses before the new rules came in will dissapear in the next 12months...

Yep. Cheers.

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In NSW P-platers arent allowed to drive mechanically modified cars either. You could fit a PowerFC and lower the Rev limit to 3500RPM, it'll only be makeing half its normal power then!!! Somehow i dont think so mate. So even if the mod made it "less" powerfull i think you'd still be arrested and beaten...

The 2 ceramic turbo's on the GTR do have a tendency to both go within a short time of each other. Id be terrorfied of fitting another ceramic turbo, only to have the other original go within a few 100 km's. The stock ceramic turbo's are old and well behind the times now, save yourself more money down the track and invest in some aftermarket turbos now. Even N1's would be a great upgrade...

As far as i know you can only use the "finned" rear diff check on a R33 GTR to see if its a VSpec...

Thats rich comeing from someone who just skipped the last 3 posts that stated you CANT use a AWD-2WD switch in a R33 GTR and R34 GTR. The AWD fuse may as well be on the moon...

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The price on any GTR R32-R33-R34, is going to drop. Very few cars can be seen as an investment, and the Nissan GTR aint one of them. The GTR's that will do best on re-sale will be the rarer spin-offs. The NUR-SPEC R34 GTR should hold its value more so than a stock R34 GTR. The other problem is the new Nissan GTR is due out in the next year or so, this will hurt re-sale even more. Dont buy and own and run a GTR unless your willing to spend and lose a lot of your money, they aint that kinda car.

Ill stuff around with it tommorrow for another 30min, then ill get real mad, drink a beer, and head down to Jaycar with the old siren to find the closest replacement they have...

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Fair enough, clearly ive not experienced the results you guys have. Ill have more of a read up on Garret GT2560R 707160-5 turbos then, and have a closer look at te dyno graph you mentioned. Didnt mean to upset, just a big statement to promise near stock boost response but able to generate well over 500BHP at the wheels. Might have to give Hyperdrive a call when my HKS turbo's need replaceing. Cheers.

Fair enough, but 530RWHP is 395RWKW, i know of several GTR's with this much power that have run a 10sec quartermile. But all have had to sacrifice low end torque and response as the turbo's needed to produce the required power levels are big and laggy. But somehow your turbo's defy physics and have achieved what no other GTR owner has yet to. Near standard boost response with the added bennefit of enough topend power to run 10sec quartermile times and all at a lowly 20PSI. Call me a sceptic, but a GTR with a 2.7Jun and HKS 2530 turbos, with cams and afms and all the bells and whistles, built and tuned by CRD, cant match your power figure at 20PSI and is not as resonsive as a GT-SS equipped GTR. So quite frankly either your car aint makeing 530RWHP on a legitimate dyno, or the turbo's you use are laggier than 2530's.

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And just a tad off topic....

Im not sure i understand your question. Why would you want a R34 Skyline to "convert" to a GTR? Why not buy a R34GTR? It would be an absolute nightmare of a job to take a R34 GT and turn it into a GTR with the entire engine, brakes, suspension and drivetrain!!!

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