maxr33

Did some ringing around today. My details are 36 years old, in Townsville, no claims or negatives bar 1 <15km/h speeding ticket in the last 5 years. Insuring 2003 V35 coupe premium auto with factory optioned wheels, frontbar + fogs, momo steering wheel, rear spoiler agreed value $32000. Lumley = $926 with $1kxs, $811 with $1500xs Famous = $966 with set $600xs - no option to reduce premium by increasing xs. (These guys were cheapest with my R33gtst with plenty of mods at $825) Suncorp = $800 with $1050 flexible xs. Not that I'd go with them after the way they recently treated a friends claim. Also was quite amusing that they had no record of the V35 coming in any option but manual or CVT - not confidence inspiring! Shannons - wouldn't cover me as I don't have a lockup garage. NRMA = $1483 with $500xs Just Cars = $965 with $400xs down to $579 with $1500xs. Hoping to not jinx myself but as I've had no claims ever I'm happy to take the higher excess and cheaper premium option with Just Cars. I feel for you guys in Sydney!

Noice one! Those rims look pretty good imo - are they 18's? My V35 is sitting waiting for customs to clear it - man am I sick of waitiing! Glad you're enjoying yours

Well, while doing the 'waiting for my car to get here from Japan and researching the hell out of it' thing I found this http://www.tds.castrol.com.au/pdf/2701_tra...xj_b1650_03.pdf which may or may not help. Is apparently auto trans fluid equivalent to the Nissan J Matic. I have nfi on prices though. There must be a few auto driving people who've had a atf change by now, anything new to report?

Hey Congratz! Be at least another month for me First impressions on the V? Any negatives after the first day, or is it all good and worth every second of this painful waiting game?! ( I know that it is of course, just seeking reinforcement seeing as I'm only 1/2 way through the process )

Lol - wouldn't want to confuse people too much huh! There's a hell of a lot of guard to fill - the 350Z shock/spring mod would help but I don't want it too be too low - although it doesn't look like it should be too bad? Lucky Townsville's really flat

Yeah I'm pretty happy with the Momo item - no buttons to control things but I prefer it's look. Haven't got a decent image of the front lip unfortunately - must've been parked up close to another car will put up the best one I've got. Like the clear indicators as well. Just gotta wait another month or so for the car to get to me pm sent Chris

If the main point is to use the stock screen, would it be possible to integrate a carpc - via the Aux in of the stock system, then rather than a remote, use a mouse to navigate the pc page(s)? I was thinking either a laptop scroll pad type mouse or even just a normal micro mouse, set in the centre console (or wherever) bluetoothed to the carpc unit. This would keep all the stock functions - even the ones that don't work - and allows the benefits of all the added goodies from a car pc. Doable? I personally would prefer not to fit a double din unit - only other way I'd consider would be to replace the stock screen with a touchscreen and do it the same way - via Aux in - hopefully therefore keeping the stock functions and adding all the extras, however that might be way easier said than done/impossible? I really don't know much about how these things work and don't yet have my car to play with it

Hey All, Well after trolling around reading every other post on this forum I have finally got some pics of my new beasty and thought I'd put them up and say g'day. I'm in the process of selling my R33 GTSt - seems to be a common story Bit sad about that, I know I'm going to miss the power but I'm looking forward to a nice quiet comfortable car that can still provide some fun. Have scored a 2003 model V35, triptronic, premium with I believe Nissan optioned rear spoiler, front lip with fog lights, Momo steering wheel, splash guards and wheels ( look familiar n15mo? ). Has a few more miles on it than many with about 58k but for the extras I figured it was worth it. Scored it for 1.6million yen fob which I was happy with. Imported via Prestige Motorsport - thanks to Geoff! Compliance being done in Brisbane by Isaso which means I get access to the guru - Chris Rogers, for my av requirements Hopefully I can manage technology enuff to get the pics up now! Cheers Max

A good stealth look is to mount the guage in a cup style guage holder on the steering column on the lower left side - at about 7/8 o'clock. So you can see it through the gap in the steering wheel arches. Can't see it at all from the drivers window (looks stocko when Mr Plod looks in!) but is a suprisingly easy spot to check when driving as you don't have to look to the left/right - just down a bit. Works for me :-)

R33 S2 GTS-t: Power FC, HKS 2530kai turbo, Pod filter with cai, Z32 afm, 1.1bar (16lb) boost controlled by Blitz DSBC Spec R controller, HKS fmic, GTR bov, Bosch 040 pump, Sard fpr, Nismo 555cc injectors, Splitfire coils, split front/dump pipe, highflow cat, 3inch cat back exhaust. 218rwkw. 20/12/06 Re-tune: 244.9rwkw at 16lb. 200kw by 4300rpm. No power gain beyond 6000rpm.

For what it's worth I just hooked up with Famous. 34yo male, rating 1 for life with Suncorp up 'til now (who won't touch me since I've put on the hks 2530 turbo), was paying $570 with suncorp - xs $1650, Famous = $755 - xs $500, full comp, unlimited legal mods (R33 GTS-T Series 2) in Townsville. Pretty happy, though only nominated drivers are covered. Were the cheapest I found in my searches.

You see heaps of Skylines around up here now but it's a relatively rare driver who'll give you a nod or a wave. I don't tend to spend much time in the Qld section as most of it's SE Qld based, but G'day anyway!

My car had federals on when I got it - not sure which type, but they were pretty crap. One bulged and had to be replaced, they used to bag up in first gear at about 25km/h if you stomped it (at 10psi boost) and they aquaplaned better than water skis (got 26000km out of them). Dunlop 3000a's were miles ahead, didn't break traction like the others and actually drove through puddles. Could launch at about 1000rpm more than the federals - heaps better grip. Got 34000km out of them. This was on an R33 GTS-T, hope that helps!

I'm in Townsville and did the 'are you mad?' thing and bought a sight unseen car from a bloke on the Goldcoast 3 years ago who did me an honest deal. PM me and I can give you some contact details if you want to catch up to have a yarn about anything. Back to the fuel price war! With standard mods but stock computer, engine and turbo I get about 9.5km to the litre round town driving reasonably sensibly (on optimax), almost 11km/l doing the speed limit on the highway on long drives. It does tend to get a bit thirstier when you hit the speed limiter

My hicas light comes on after 10km of driving and stays on. After chasing around worring about what it could have been it turns out that I've got an aftermarket diff and that's the cause.

Definately Suncorp. I'm rating 1 for life, 32 yo, no infringements driving an R33 series 2 with turbo back exhaust, front mount cooler, pod filter, fully adjustable suspension, boosted to 10psi (yep even told them that!), <$1000 stereo, non original mags live in Townsville - grand total = $580 full comprehensive. They have got a set $600 xs and added another $1000 xs when I boosted it. This does put me at the limit of their 'points system' of allowable mods but still not a bad deal from what I hear of other places.

pm'd again dude.

You've got another pm

You've got pm

JimX - Is it possible that my problem could be my regulator? Would it be worth putting a Malpassi in to see if that sorts my problem out? Also without a S-AFC how do you go about re-tuning? Sorry to hi-jack the thread. Cheers, Max.

adam 32 - I know the 044 is overkill with a lightly modded R33 (fmic, pod, 3" turbo back exhaust and running 10 psi) are there any dramas with having an overly powerful pump? When my car was dyno'd when I upped the boost it went from 155 rwkw at 7psi to only 160 at 10psi - I got about 10% more torque across the board but my power ramp just flattened after 5500rpm, it was also running lean at that stage. I was told this was because the fuel pump was at it's limit but I thought I should've gotten a little more out of the stock pump? If I need a new pump I'll have to do it more for fear of detonation than more power. So if you could give us your opinion on my situation I'd appreciate it. If the 044 won't be too high pressure then I'll grab yours no worries. Cheers man, Max

A while back the little plastic bush thingy that clips onto the end of the gear shifter to move the round metal thingy in the gearbox fell off (I know technical terms!). Apparently this is a common thing and happens with wear and I've been driving without it but it's a pretty mobile feeling shifter! I got onto my local performance shop to order me another. Nissan sent up the whole lower swivel assembly for $60 odd (which I didn't need) and the wrong sized bush which I tried to modify with no success. I know people use garden hose etc but it's still not a great fit. Does anyone know the exact part no. for the bush as I've got Buckleys of getting the right bit from my local Nissan without spoonfeeding them the info. Thanks in advance, Max

R33 GTS-t Series 2, HKS FMIC, Blitz Pod, Cusco suspension, 3"turbo back zorst, aftermarket mags, aftermarket stereo. 31 years old rating 1 for life - Suncorp price = $580. The trick - live in North Qld! This puts me at 15 on their bulls**t points scheme but you're now allowed 28 (2 months ago I was told that I was at the max limit). I rang Famous today and someone who obviously had no idea quoted me $2000 - 2200, Just cars were $1150. I was told that same car same driver in Sydney would be about $5000. They're all Fascists!

Tire wear and stuff like that actually isn't the most annoying thing. I don't actually hear much clicking noise (or any other similar well described sound effect!), certainly doesn't really sound like what you guys are describing. When I'm under low revs - when I turn a tight corner the motor goes under load (I'm assuming that's because it's trying to spin one wheel against the other) and tends to become a bit jerky. Similar to a learner driver bunny hopping when starting - that's what bugs me a bit sounds like you haven't got enough revs up and the car's trying to stall. The tighter I turn the more load the motor sounds like it's carrying. It's really only things like T-intersections from a standstill that I notice it. If I'm turning as I'm building up revs in first gear it tends to happen. If I've been driving forward for a bit, say into second, then turning I still feel it a bit but the engines got the revs not to feel jerky. If I come hard into a right angle corner at about 60 it just rips around no drama, roundabouts I don't notice it. How does the clutch pack set up work?

Nah dude, turning slowly on gravel you can hear/see the tires slipping at idle speed on full lock so I figure that means it's permanently engaged. If you gun it around a corner under boost when it starts to lose traction it seriously throws the rear end sideways - makes learning to handle the beast interesting!