SCRMER

Flow was fine before the rebuild. Block was acid dipped, Everything was checked as best as during the build is there any hose or anything that can be put on the wrong way or the wrong connection to cause flow from stopping. But if flow is blocked then why can i force water through the system manually with pressure from a standard hose? But when the car is running on it's own, there is No flow. We have pretty much done the same build we have done on other Rb26's i have had in the past. Just dont know what is different in this case or what has failed

Pressure tests come back fine. The cooling system was A1 before the motor was pulled out for a rebuild. I feel something has failed somewhere, something is blocked or there is some kind of value that isnt working correctly. There is definitely a lack of flow in the system. What i feel is happening is water is just sitting in the system, it rises in temp, the thermostat opens, cold water from the radiator is just sitting there and there is nothing to push it through until some kind of pressure builds up that moves it manually. When i took it for a drive around the block, i remember when it hit say 90deg and as soon as i turned a corner, it would drop in temp, like it had force to push the flow through. You'd think pump wouldnt you if there is no flow but water can go through the system? Even when the water goes through to cool down, it never gets into the heater core, that's something interesting to note.

yep the whole time the heater is on, 32 deg, full blast, no hot air, barely any warm air even if car is over 100deg. Like water is not getting in there. If you take off the hose and fill the heater hoses with warm water so it hits the core, it gets warm inside the car straight away. Apart from the lack of flow without the thermostat in, when the car is hot and gets cool, you get hear hot and cold water hitting each other inside the motor when the car dramatically drops in temp. Another interesting point is, the car just stays cold for so long, most likely cause the hot water is not flowing to hit the temp sensors I am at a loss.

So, as much as i hate to be posting this, the problem still exists. The head machining actually didnt fix the problem. Initially thought so but it is still there. Motor basically got rebuilt again apart from taking the pistons and rods and still having the same issue. All welsh plugs have been checked Looks like there is definitely some sort of water flow issue. From what i can see, i would pin point it to be a pump problem. Even though the pump has been changed and the old one used for testing. With the thermostat out, i can put a hose down the radiator, turn it on, and water will flow through the system if i keep a hose off and let it run out. Although it is weak, i am seeing water flow. Turn the car on with the thermostat out, and the car on and nothing. Change pumps, same deal Am i missing something? Is there some kind of potential valve somewhere that may be opening when we are putting pressure from a hose into the system to force the water out? Or does the RB need the thermostat in to open and let the water pass properly? I am trying to get an idea of how water actually flows throughout the whole motor to try and eliminate everything i can The above may be confusing so please ask questions if what i said doesnt make sense. It has been months and i cant take back ownership of my car after the motor has come out twice with the same issue!

I think it is more up to us, the car enthusiasts to do what we can to stop this. After all it is all of us who get affected by these cars as they get released into our close nit market. None of us want to be buying anything like this so we have to do what we can to make sure no one does. The more awareness we can provide to the community and potential owners about places like Edward Lees, the more value the skyline / import community has!

I believe the R34 GTR - 65840-AA400 = *2K.GTR/V2 M SPEC is a full underbonnet Mat, whilst the is the R34 GTR - 65840-AA410 = *2K.GTR/V2 GTR/N1 SPEC small mat we are after Are the suppliers finding out?

I would say R34 GTR - 65840-AA410 = *2K.GTR/V2 GTR/N1 SPEC

Found the issue. It was the head. The head wasnt exactly straight when it was taken off. It wasnt making proper seals around all the o-ring seals. To be honest, the head wasnt touched when it was pulled off the first time. It should have been checked before the motor got rebuilt. It got sent away last week to get machined. A light machine on the underside, put it all back on and bam, normal temps. Attention to detail was not there. Needless to say, not happy about it all. But everything is A OK now so what can i complain about. Thanks all that tried to help

Hi Guys, Wondering if there is anyone out there with a R34 GTR, that runs and extended sump. I have recently pump one on and found that it sits a lot lower. This has caused the diffuser that sits under the engine to not fit. Has anyone dealt with this? I was thinking about either spacing out the contact points of the diffuser, which would then make it sit super low or cutting a section out of the diffuser so the sump fits through it Any ideas would be helpful Cheers

Yes please! I am 100% in. Long as the price isnt more than the car

2000/01 - Vspec II - It's the small mat that sits next to the naca duct on the CF bonnet. The one in the pic that StretchGSK posted

Did you have similar issues with temps rising and falling or was it just a constant rise and not coming back down? it's interesting. Few other standard gtrs we were comparing with over the last week. The standard ones you could start up, drive out of the driveway and see it gained 10 degrees and heat would just slowly rise every min the car was on. Mine, well it just stayed cold for so much longer, temps wont budge, then all of a sudden a lots of heat! Pulled the motor out of the car on Saturday. Going to pull the head off it hopefully today and get a good look at what is going on. Hopefully it's something little that has been missed!

You and me both. I just want to drive the car!

That has been check and everything is fine from that end apparently. Looks like a motor out job from here on in. Will let all know the outcome

He is sure he put them in but was questioning to ensure that he did. Could be another reason he wants to pull the motor apart But the above helps. It is something new to investigate at least! Thanks!

Exactly what we did. Def sucked in some fluid in. But just a steady stream coming out of the bleeder

i'd be a 100% in on one of these if by any chance you can get one??

Yep it was, it would get worse and better as the temp rapidly cooled and threw out the hot water. As the motor got a burst of cooler water, the hot water coming out would cause disruption in the water in the bottle and move it around a bit To be honest didnt check the overflow so i dont know

Yep that's the plan it looks like Tried a few different methods. - let it idle and keep the revs around 3 to draw in water into the motor. - Kept the heater on all the time - after a few mins, switch it off and let it cool down - Opened the bleeder valve with the car off and with the car on until steady streams of fluid came out. Not once were there bubbles or broken stream. Water seemed to be in the head at all times from the get go - Tried jacking the front up as high as we could so the radiator was higher than the motor and repeated the processes. - tried having a bottle cut open with fluid in it, sitting in the radiator as we were idling and revving to see if it would suck more in. kept sucking in a lot and when it finally didnt want anymore, it stopped. - Tried a method with the radiator cap on and the car on and letting air out of the bleeder valve, which none came out. - Drove the car down the street, around a few corners and up a few hills to just see if we could push any air pockets out - Used a vacuum machine to suck any air out, nothing really did - had the car running for a few mins, stopped it, let it cool, tried letting air out, and repeated that process many times over a few days incase things needed to settle. Nothing we did made a dent in the issue.

Yeah it was. I havent actually taken the car back from the workshop since being rebuilt. Looks like a problem since the car has been first started as we havent really put any kms on it

Already on our 2nd pump and 3rd thermostat! No improvement

I agree with what you are saying and it's a good point. But this issue seems to be with water getting stuck around certain points of the motor. It's like it gets stuck around the thermostat and then it releases after a certain point or even like an air pocket that has heated up causing massive temp jump. Once it releases then bang everything is rapidly cooled until it builds up again like that. Temps appear to be different all around the cooling system as this process is underway. it's like something is stopping the water from free flowing all throughout the motor and as the motor gets hotter and the pressure rises in the cooling system, it get's harder and harder for it to push that water around the be cooled. You'd think it is something stupid we have missed. I believe my mechanic is going to pull the motor out this week to see what's happening around the head gasket. Lucky it isnt going to cost me anything! Feels a bit extreme though

No they are all still the same but worth a shot to double check how they are run

Yeah will have to keep trying to above and see what the results are. I just hope i dont have to pull the motor out again and tare it all down to figure this out!

Only using standard Nissan pumps. Also using the standard clutch fan. I've had heating issues in my other RB's that have used thermos but that is because they were not wired up right and it would be a gradual increase in heat. This is just bizarre. How quickly the temp goes from hot to cold is something i have to seen and can find any info on. The fact it will get to a point where it just can't be cooled unless the car switches off and the pressure in the cooling system dies down just points to air. But for the life of me, can't find any after everything i have done