Stoney85

The bore is machined to Tomei 87mm specs and the ring clearances are set off their specs too, the bore clearance is smaller than most at 0.05mm or 2thou. The tomei specs are pretty bland in their description though. My bad on the big end clearances, I meant to say main clearances, haven't check the big end specs yet, but these rods and this crank have been together before on a very high hp motor built by JHH, so i'm confident they are correct, but will check them anyway. Thank you for your help.

I'm on the hunt for a few tiny trim pieces just to bring my R34 interior back to perfect. -rear parcel shelf speaker cover -drivers side mirror interior trim cover (tiny triangle piece) -coin slot under steering wheel I'm located near Coffs Harbour, NSW, so would need the parts to be posted if not around this area

I believe the block already has a smaller restrictor in place, when it had a top end refresh not too long before I purchased it (mercury motorsport did it) but I have a 1.5mm here to fit anyway, maybe i should have gone to a 1.25mm after reading the oil control thread, but I dont plan on tracking the car or putting it in any driving conditions where it sits at high rpm for extended periods of time. I can see why fitting the new restrictor over the old one is done, purely because its easy, but I'll do what you mentioned, and hopefully there is only one that i have to remove. Fitting the new one, does it have to sit flush with the block or would it matter if its sunken at all? Cant see it being an issue, but I thought I'd ask anyway. After the block was machined and honed, it did have an extensive hot wash as I instructed, and i went through a few toilet bottle brushes cleaning the bores or any leftover hone material, but will check and clean the oil feed once the old restrictor is removed. It was a super clean motor when I dismantled it, and from what I was told by Tessa, It was a low km motor when they sourced it, and i'm rebuilding it not from a spun bearing but a damaged piston. Still waiting on a few parts to arrive, but I checked all the ring gaps and nothing needed adjusting, specs on the tomei rings say between 0.18-0.35mm, I was getting 0.28 on all top rings and 0.31 on second rings, so i'm sufficiently happy with that, oil ring gaps are between 0.18-0.75 and were at 0.55. Weighed all the Tomei pistons and Eagle rods, and all are within 0.5grams of each other, so i then proceeded to fit all the rings to the pistons after a good clean, and the pistons to the rods. Put the crank in to check big end clearances and happy to report all are pretty much exactly on 0.05mm gap according to the flexigauge strips. I'm pretty much ready to assemble the bottom end. Considered doing it last night, but wanted to tackle it all at once with a clear head.

Thanks for that, I think i'll stick with a stock RPM ceiling for now, keeping the standard head for this rebuild. The bottom end I'm doing properly as I have all the parts on hand, finally read that oil control thread, very handy info mixed in with the same questions asked 1000 times over and over. I'm currently cleaning the block of any honing material leftover, cleaning all the parts I will be using, have sourced a set of accurate scales and will be matching the balanced rods and pistons to get the most even weights throughout. Flexigauge material has arrived to check clearances, rings are here too, so setting ring gaps is next. I don't have an RB26 rebuild workshop manual, so that's my next document I have to find, while the info is available everywhere, I'd rather have some genuine Nissan specs on paper beside me. Also need to source ARP stud torques, then there is what assembly lube to use and so on. Got some homework to do tonight.

Finally finished reading this topic... exhausted now. If I was to completely change my current setup on my RB26, I'd now go with the two sump fittings on the inlet side as high as possible, as mentioned lately. But it is a single turbo setup now and the rear turbo drain has now been utilized to have a braided line from the rear of the cylinder head as a breather (not cyl head drain as its advertised everywhere as), sure the fancier catch can with more fittings sounds like it will work, but my catch can setup as it is, sits behind the passenger strut tower and takes both rockers covers into it, along with a drain line into the turbo drain and a vent line into the turbo intake. Nitto oil pump and 1.5mm restrictor, having read more, I'd probably go a 1.2mm now, but I'm happy with how it has been setup by the previous owner, so i'll be keeping it as it is for now, and this is a street car, not a track car, and having made 400kws without any oiling issues evident so far, i'll keep it as it is. If I rebuild the cylinder head in the future, then I will tidy up the oil drain ports, and if it visits the track, then I will be monitoring it a lot closer.

That is another question I wanted to ask, in regards to being able to adjust the oil pressure. Is there a recommended spring rate to run? Run it at stock pressure or higher? I'm slowly getting through the 70 pages on the oil control thread and haven't come across that topic yet. Thanks already.

Amazing results, credit to you and your research. If you don't mind me asking, What is your daily job? Do the skills from that job help you at all in the design and build of this motor? Or is this solely an enthusiasts desire to get the best results possible?

MY JHH built head has that already I'm pretty sure.

Legend, I had already seen that, and saved it, but had only glanced at the first half seeing it in Japanese.

The oil head drain setup I had been using on the old built head, drains to the rear turbo drain fitting on the block, so I'd assume that its higher than the oil level, so it should do exactly as you say, equalize pressures. The R34 crank is already the long nose setup is it not? and i'll be using a Nitto oil pump. I'll read into the oil control thread, thanks

Never said they couldn't, but I couldn't find too much information, and going to a third party ring supplier, I wanted to have all the information, plus I didn't have the old rings on hand as comparisons

I'm sure this has been covered numerous times, but I'm unable to easily find what I want to know. I'm about to undertake a rebuild of my R33 RB26 after a piston ringland failure, running 320rwkws and a stock old bottom end didn't mix. I WILL be tuning the car again and running a wideband before any power runs etc will be undertaken. But all the bolt ons and headwork will stay the same. The main acc's include a ViPEC ECU, GT3582R, Tial 60mm, 6 Boost manifold, 750cc injectors I have in my build the following parts Nitto oil pump R34 crank, balanced and prepped Eagle Rods Tomei cooling channel 87mm pistons and rings ARP studs throughout ACL race bearings Ext head drain Oil feed restrictor I'm reusing the stock head for now, but do have a JHH built head, that had a valve failure and needs a rebuild in the future. What I want to know, is what block prep work, or any other hidden secrets people perform on their rebuild. I've done a few old Datsun L series rebuilds, and an SR build, and the L series had a book available which mentioned things like deburring the blocks internal casting marks, polishing/enlarging the oil drains and even paqinting the internal walls for better oil drain. With that oil pump and oil feed restrictor, can I get away without fitting the ext head oil drain or is it a must? So is there anything like that people do to the RB26, on top of using the good parts in a rebuild?

I've sourced a set of Tomei rings, went with the original ones, but the info I have found available is all in Japanese, was $500 sourced from the states, not cheap, but I know these are exactly what is needed, rather than guessing and hoping a custom set is correct, would rather not have to rebuild the motor due to an incorrect sizing issue. Still awaiting a response from Tomei, hopefully I can get the manufacturers specs on the honing procedure and ring/bore clearances.

Doing a rebuild of my RB26 and I'm after the following parts -Head gasket to suit an 87mm bore -Stock sized big end and main bearings -87mm Tomei piston rings (and specs) Located near Coffs Hbr, NSW

I'm in the process of rebuilding my RB26, and will be using the good bits from my last built motor that dropped a valve, but need to find out the specs of these pistons for the machine shop, as they are a second hand set of 87mm cooling channel Tomei forged pistons. From what I've found, the Tomei website mentions their motor has a 0.055mm piston to bore clearance, and i've also read to set the clearance between 1.9-2.2thou, which backs that up. Can anyone confirm this, I tried sending an email to Tomei USA, but haven't heard back from them yet. Also, I'm looking at what options I have for a set of rings, there is the two Tomei options, one being the standard ring set at $400 US, or the set with titanium coated top rings at $800 US, I'm not building this motor to make 1000hp, nor was this a planned rebuild, so funds aren't exactly unlimited, so I figured the stock ones would suffice, BUT before I go and spend $600 Australian on a set of rings by the time they arrive, what other options are available. Do Total Seal do a set to suit? 1.2mm, 1.2mm and 2.5mm are the ring thickness' I also got recommended to try wholesale performance as they can make custom ring sets for $250, or advanced ring sets for $400, but I need to have all the required specs to give them. What about ring bedding in procedure? Will whatever ring set I get have a recommended honing pattern and grit coarseness to hone to?

What is the bore condition like? stock size and honeable? or require going oversize?

Still available

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Gonna keep it stock for now, keep the revs to 7,500rpm, back the boost down a bit and see how it goes. I figured if I don't rev the motor, the stock pump will be fine. I'll keep all the good bits and build up an RB30 bottom end to suit my worked head and then throw that in at a much later stage.

Cheers mate, rocked up today

Ok, recently my RB26 dropped a valve and destroyed the engine I had in my R34 GTT, was making over 500hp, probably closer to 600, but anyway, that engine lost a piston and the N1 block cracked. I've sourced an R33 GTR motor to use for now to get my car up and running again. I've got it sitting on an engine stand right now and just wanted to see what's people's views and opinions on what I should do before I fit it to my car. Ok, from what I gather about the previous owner of the stock RB26 is that it had 100,000kms on a stock GTR, standard boost, and it was just serviced, he then built a new engine as a tax write off and put this on the shelf. So I have a built rb26 that is destroyed sitting there and a stock 26 that's going to replace it for now. I'll be detuning to suit, lower rev limit, less timing, less boost, but was thinking is it worth it to put the Nitto oil pump from the other motor in it? What about the ext head drain oil kit? I'll be bolting up the inlet setup and the exhaust - 6boost manifold, tial 60mm gate and a gt3582r. And the larger 8L custom baffled sump too. I was thinking of taking a main and big end off to inspect them, and replace if required which it shouldn't need hopefully. What else should I do, I'm not really keen on stripping the motor, If I did I may as well just aource anothe JE piston, Along with fit the eagle rods and modded crank, rebuild the old head and be done with it. I plan on doing that later to another block. Ive read the nitto pump needs the restrictor put in the head oil feed gallery or its too much oil up there, if I'm only revving to say 7,500rpm, is a stock one sufficient for 300+kws or should I fit the nitto one along with the ext oil drain kit or will it still flood the head with oil? Can you take a spring out to reduce the pressure?

To suit a 30 bottom end and a 25 bottom end? Aren't they different length rods?

Still for sale?

I'll have one for sale shortly

What comes with the 34 motor? Inlet, sensors, loom etc?