Stoney85

I live in mackay too mate, love those wheels just not sure how they'd sit on my R34, it's got pumped an flared guards, and 9" on the front is fine currently. What's the chances of test fitting? My car is out of action currently though.

WTF, always happens to me, just bought one last week. However, what model? 32,33?

Have you got pics of the rb26 covers? Are they already drilled? Ready to bolt straight up? I've got an R34 GTT with a GTR fibreglass bonnet, and latch setup, and xenon headlights, which cooling panel will suit, GTT or GTR? And what about ganador style mirrors? Cheers

I'll offer $150 delivered

Coin slot under steering wheel (to the right a bit)?

Stock R33 RB26 will rock up next week. Now what do people think I should do with it, I was considering to remove the big ends and have a look and maybe replace them all along with mains too, when I fit the rwd large capacity sump, change front and rear crank seals too. What about fitting the nitto pump I have, will that be an issue if I don't fit the block restrictor which I won't, but what about if I go ahead with fitting the external head oil drain kit too, will that suffice? Any other ideas, without pulling the motor down to bits?

Bought!

Well, recently my engine went boom, dropped a valve and destroyed the engine, cracked the block and what not. Anyways, ive found an engine from another member on this site, and i'm going to get it, the only issue is that i'm living in Mackay, North QLD, 4740 and he is in North Plympton, SA, 5037, 2,500kms away What courier companies, shipping companies etc, have people dealt with and recommend? Depot to Depot? workshop to house etc?

Looks like I'm going to get a stock rb26, drop that in, bolt up all my gear i currently have and retune to Vipec to suit. Then decide further down the track what I want to do with the fully worked head, maybe rebuild it and bolt it on the stock bottom end or build it up with another bottom end etc

To be honest, reusing the block had never even crossed my mind as an option. Found a stock R33 RB26, I might go with that option, and then maybe build up an RB30 bottom end and rebuild my worked head, and throw that in at a later stage

unless i sleeve the block again, i cant see how else i could reuse it, the crack is visible the whole way down the rear of cylinder 6, can physically feel the raised edge

I'll take it! However, i'm in north qld, Mackay 4740, would you be willing to sort out shipping? obviously ill pay the extra If not, i can try organise it, if you are willing to put it on a crate securely. I'll ring him tomorrow if i get time

Years ago, when i rebuilt my old L series for my datto 1600, i read through the book on "how to maximise the potential of your L series" and one area it focused on was block prep, basically doing what has been done here, but going one step further and actually painting the internal walls of the block, so that the walls are completely glossy, allowing the oil to drain back to the sump as quickly as possible, probably more important in a race engine 20-30 years ago, running minimal baffles and a small capacity sump as opposed to todays standards, but never the less an interesting insight as to what extent builders went to. I did it all to mine, and it really didnt take much longer to do with the right tools.

I have this issue too, but mainly because my p/s pump isnt line dup with the ross balancer, i bought the car with this issue and am yet to rectify it (minor concern now that the engine blew up) but id say that my issue is the wrong p/s pump for the rb26 and its balancer, seeing as my car is an R34 GTT with hicas deleted I'll look into the modifying of the bracket to relocate the pumps position and see if that helps

$7g for a built rb34 bottom end, bolt up my nitto pump and girdle, larger sump and build the head again. My turbo would be too small after a 30% capacity increase, it was responsive at just over 3,000rpm before. That's a lot of money though for a toy

Not sure why it cracked, maybe the excess load when the motor seized is all I can think of, if it was cracked beforehand I would've noticed signs, ie coolant loss or misfire. I'd love to throw copious amounts of money at it to fix the problem, but I want to do it wisely and will do some research Ito what options I have to choose from

I'm thinking that if the valves were sticky its possible that it might've been held open long enough to make contact with the piston and just bend the stem, other than that I'm still racking my brain as to how it happened. The valve seat is a little mashed up do it'll be hard to make a conclusion from that area. I'll try and get some photos up. The crack in the block is huge, easy to see and there is a coolant weep through it. I'll check the rods too. Rb30 bottom end???

I guess that why the previous build was done with an N1 block, purely because they are stronger, didnt help me though I should mention that i live in Mackay, Nth QLD

Ok, i recently purchased a fairly built R34 GTT, with an N1 24U RB26 in it, GT3582R, 60mm tial gate, triple plate clutch, and a heap of engine work done to it, ran sweet for a while, then started running on 5 cylinders, upon inspection and after some research, the headwork performed wasn't the ideal way to go about it. I'm still learning about the RB26's and its quirks etc, but from what i can gather, this wasnt built perfectly and i feel it was the lead cause for cylinder 6 exhaust valve to snap at the end of the stem and get munched by the JE piston, possibly resulting in the cracked block Engine specs N1 block, bored to 87mm with JE forged pistons, eagle H beam rods, balanced/grub screwed crank, torque plate bored/honed, ARp studs throughout, ACL race bearings, Nitto oil pump, oil restrictor Head- heavily ported/polished, match ported intake, supertech brass valve guides, supertech 1mm o/size valves, supertech valve springs, supertech titanium retainers, tomei poncam 270* 10.25mm lift, greddy adj cam gears thats the main specs of the engine, and apparently from what i can gather is that the tomei cams have a smaller base circle than stock (to get the desired high lift without machining the head like the next size up tomei cams) and the way this was rectified to get the desired cam to bucket clearances was with thicker shims, instead of thicker buckets, and to top it off, the shims required their diameter to be slightly reduced to fit into the supertech spring retainers. I had one issue with this engine whilst it was running, and that was when it dropped to 5 cylinders, upon inspection, one of the shims had dislodged causing the valve to stay just open (different cyl to the one that failed and exhaust not inlet valve) So when my engine seized, i was cruising back from work, changing from 3rd to second about to turn a corner, doing no more than 3,000rpm in neutral when it went 'rattle, seize', coasted to the side of the road thinking WTF, wouldnt crank, ok shes dead.. Stripped it down weeks later, to find the above mentioned damage, what i dont undertsand i how it managed to do it esp under no load, was it the cracked block first causing the issue or was it the load from the valve head seizing the motor that put undue stress on the block causing it to crack Not ten minutes earlier before it happened, it was under full load and no dramas with the engine were evident. It did have sticky valves sometimes, and a head rebuild was on the cards to sort it all out properly so there were never any dramas. But what are peoples ideas on why it happened and what would you do in this situation? Rebuild and use the parts i have already with a new block and a new JE piston to suit, along with a head rebuild, and fix the combustion chamber and reseat the valves along with new valves, but what about the valve spring/seat/cam/shim/bucket setup? change it all, or change what to suit? The other idea was to get someone elses built RB26, that is for sale, drop that straight in after swapping inlets, exhaust, turbo, large capacity sump, coolers, oil drains etc, Vipec wiring etc to suit, and then strip mine and sell it in bits, tomei poncams, eagle rods, nitto oil pump and whatnot Thanks for reading, any input regardless of opinion is always welcome, and to say that the previous owner knew about these issues and didnt tell me, isnt true, i knew the bloke who owned it, and there is over $50k in receipts over the last 4 years, everything is done properly and if something went wrong he would fix and upgrade it at the same time, i know the tuner who also did the headwork (Grant), who happens to own a tommy kaira R34 GTR with a built engine and an R35 GTR, it was mentioned but was never an issue that needed rectifying urgently

Well my N1 RB26 just died, not sure what exactly happened, but the outcome is a broken exhaust valve on cylinder 6, which has munched the piston and damaged the combustion chamber, upon stripping the engine, i have discovered that while the bore was unscathed of damage from the valve, the block is cracked. 500-600hp will do that i guess. Now im still unsure of what path i want to proceed down with the engine build, do i get an already built one and then sell off parts from my old one, just buy a bare block, source a new JE piston and fix the head up, etc So guys, show me what you have and then ill start making decisions on what i available, and what path to go down, $$$ of course are not something i want to throw away, so i want to do it right and once.

does it include the guage holder?

Still got the clock spring?

After an intact clock spring (behind the steering wheel)

Might be interested in the block depending on the extent of the damage on mine (just dropped a valve) once I open up and inspect it

If you include shipping I'll offer $600. Not really required right now seeing as I have a 5 cylinder RB26, but hopefully I'll sort that out soon