Habler

You assume too much and understand too little. I doubt anyone has played with your turbos instead HKS just don't set the actuator springs because each person runs it at different levels. I'm getting sick of repeating myself. Get a mechanic who takes the time to check over everything instead of rushing the job.

How do you know they don't come from factory wound back? It's a better idea than setting them at a higher PSI. At least because it couldn't hold 6psi no damage was done to your engine instead of it being set too high and over boosting because they were not checked. Also as i previously stated Jackie has offered good customer service to me before when he was at fault but why should he have to offer you anything when nothing was wrong?

The HKS GT-SS: http://www.nengun.com/hks/turbo-kit-gt-ss-gtr "In each kit reinforced adjustable actuators are attached. The spring constant is increased by 50% over the N1 spec. It prevents any pressure drop in the high-boost region. This gives you precise control in the 0.8~1.6km/sq.cm boost range." The GT-SS comes with a an adjustable actuator from factory. There is no perfect set actuator tension on these turbos as different people/tuners are going to run different amounts of boost through them. If you were not using an electronic boost controller you would control the boost via the adjustable actuator but what your telling me is that you and your mechanic believe they are set perfectly from factory for each individuals needs? I have a mate with a GT-SS. He adjusts his boost via the actuator. He sets the actuator in a spot, tests what it is reading via a boost gauge then adjusts the actuator either tighter (for more boost) and looser (to run less boost). Maybe I should get him to sue the middle man who sold him the turbo because the actuator wasn't set perfectly to the boost he wanted to run. Good luck with your claim... your going to need it.

LOL @ Stagzilla taking the mechanics word of mouth as gospel. Read this and have a small understanding of wastegates and turbos before pointing fingers. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbocharger My thoughts would be HKS set the actuators un-sprung from factory to stop idiots from installing turbos with out checking them and blowing their engine then blaming the middle man.

In summary: • It took your mechanic several hours to discover a boost issue even though this should have been evident straight away? • It took your mechanic 9 hours to remove a front bar, intercooler piping and adjust a few actuators and put it together again........................................................................... • You placed the turbos on without first checking the actuator spring tension even though it was obvious they had been adjusted with colour change? I have dealt with Jackie several times now. Once he sent the wrong part (a 1.5 way diff instead of a 2 way) and when I talked to him he apologised and fixed the mistake asap. I fail to see how your small problem of adjusting a few actuator tension springs is a big enough deal to try and ruin his reputation? You should be more worried about your mechanic ripping you off!

Sorry, question answered.

^^^^^^^^ In that post. I have had friends source direct (they may not do this for everyone?) and also the local Repco store sourced various custom made swaybars for another friend cheaper than SK offered for group buy bars. This was done after SK sent the wrong bars then took over 7 months (may have been longer) to refund his money after the bars were returned. So nothing special. Just shopping around.

Can't comment on the bilstein gear but I found sources with much cheaper prices than he was offering on whiteline gear. For example: swaybars and they were custom not group buy set.

What spring rates are your new hypercoils compared to the eibachs?

Thanks Jarrod! No idea why I was break checking but looks cool

Post up some pics

^^^^^ spot on ^^^^^ Although there seems to be a problem with Tim's cooling- no matter how good your cooling set-up is eventually with consistent laps, temps are going to get bad on a day like that. I know it's hard to resist sliding the corners on the cool down laps but you better off getting the cool air into the engine bay than going off and letting the car just sit idling. I ran thicker oil 10w-60 and although I doubt it helped with temps at all it certainly stayed thicker when I checked it during the day than my usual 5w-40 which turns to water. Oil pressure was dropping to 2bar and Tim said his got as low as 1bar!! Looks like the skylines are all coming out this year for the drifts... Was getting sick of all the silvias

Custom swaybars/springs/shocks etc to suit your needs can be ordered direct or even your local Repco stores etc can undercut Sydney Kids prices. Plus you get the added bonus of working with trustworthy companies..... Also to the question about pedders, your suspension shops will tell you wood planks are what you need if they are making money out of it. $1600 is quite a bit for poor suspension IMO... others may disagree.

Last time I checked a brand new Z32 through Nissan was just a tad over $330 so that's weird you were quoted $1000 for a RB20 one. Maybe ring a different Nissan to double check.

They are different. Can be made to fit but just wont fit up as nice.

No. Incorrect. You cant "soften springs".

Wouldn't think so as the angles are different.

Hey, are you sure that the rail you have was previously fitted in a 2 door R34? R32+R33 coupe and sedan rails are an exact match across Gtst and GTR. I can't imagine why in the R34 they would have changed this. It almost looks like the rear left tab has been modified to fit S13 (as S13 bolts up to 3 stock but needs modding for the rear left tab) Just found this... Confirming what I was saying- http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=292831 Sounds like you may have got lied to about the rail??

Razo pedals SOLD The pod cover may be sold pending payment. I will get back to you asap if that falls through.

Just stuff sitting in my shed that I have no use for but someone else may. Nothing really flashy mainly junk. R33 rear standard struts: Missing their tops but may be useful for parts or just chuck some tops on them. Look in good condition (apart from dust) but I have never had them in a car so can't guarantee anything about them - $40 S13 rear KYB Excel G shocks: Was told these came out of a S13.. once again, never used them so no idea on condition but look to be good. The springs look standard - $200 Pazio cup holder: I love cup holders and this one works fine but up-graded to duals. Has slight missing piece (circled in red) which does not affect awesome cup holding action - $10 Nismo gearknob: In great condition but for some reason does not have thread just white plastic. No idea how it's meant to fit whether you drill thread into the plastic or something. If you think you can get it to fit than you can have it for - $50 RCI 4 point harness: In new condition. Used twice and only a year old - $120 Razo metal pedal covers: Missing a few screws and bits. If your handy and want them they can probably be made to fit for a couple extra bucks at the hardware store - $15 KN pod filter: In good condition. Used for 15,000kms - $30 Metal pod adapter: comes with homemade brackets which can be taken off. Would go well with pod tongue.gif - $15 R33 Hi-Octane pod filter shield: Cover up your pod with this snazzy device. Has cracks but is still usable and fixable with some plastic welding/solder gun action. Cracks circled in red - $30 Shiny Cigarette lighter: replace your boring black one with this - $10 Everything is ONO... Email me at: [email protected] for better photos or questions.

http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showuser=12884 That guy should be able to help you out. Give him a message with what you want.

Well there you go, a neo version of the 20. People pay the same amount for 1999 R34 NA's over there as Australians pay for 1989 NA silvias.

You have a straight 6 not a V6. Instead of possibly wasting money on a cat just drop your exhaust off before the cat and go for a drive to see if that is the issue. I would also suggest a full service and some decent fuel if your not using it.

Take a photo of your engine bay, I have never heard of a RB20DE in a 34. If it actually is an auto RB20DE in a sedan R34 than you shouldn't be so surprised its slow and sluggish especially with the extra weight of the R34 sedan over a R32. They arn't exactly meant to feel super responsive and quick. I suspect you have an Rb25DE though.

Wait.... I think I found your problem.