BezerkR32

Interested in cylinder head, can you freight it to wollongong, $70 + freight ? PM me if interested.

Will you take $75 for cylinder head if i pick it up, am located in wollongong. PM me if you are interested.

You know that there is a current group buy running $960 new delivered.

what did you gap the plugs too

We make enclosures like that but out of alluminium. PM me if you are interested. otherwise you can go this way but have to run K&N pod.

The .48 housings are profiled out to suit, but they have the 4 bolt dump pipe flange, both GCG and turbologic do these, but i think he should be looking at the .63 anyway.

Sounds good. allow a bit for dump pipe & intercooler/intake pipe and your there. Make sure manifold is good quality, not one of those $300 jobs off ebay as they crack over and over.

No its cheaper. There is a number of choices of exhaust housings you can use on the 30/37. I run them on CA18 and SR20 and RB20 with ar.48 turbine housing. Cold step it up for a RB25 no problems.

Get your turbo highflowed, $1350 from Turbologic in Port Kembla NSW. Will improve midrange and top end out of sight. Dont have to modify anything to fit it and it does away with the ceramic wheel. Simple and cost effective. Have fitted a dozen of them, Customers on this forum will tell you the same. GCG also do two highfows, one being bush bearing, the other BB. There is also another thread running about Sliding Performance, im not familiar with them but would be worth a read.

750cc are good for 400kw, i use 580cc and make 300kw. bigger injectors are harder to control at idle and on cruise.

Suggest you go see your local skyline guru, tell him your budget and goals and they will advise you. or email or PM me. you dont need a computer to run 10psi.

i agree, the turbo wasnt cheap, but garret prices have gone up again, maybe better off selling it and getting yours highflowed, will suit your application better with alot less supporting mods and alot cheaper, otherwise mods are as listed above.

You dont need to upgrade the computer to run 10psi

Are you sure that you can fit this turbo without the manifold and gate? I think you may be better off getting ECU and fuel system sorted out before you fit the turbo, also find out a bit more about whats invoved in fitting it. If it has a ar 0.7 front cover it will take some swearing to low mount it on a standard manifold. Most likely will need a highmount manifold. Is the turbo internally gated? Ill add some pics of a 35/40 setup so you get an idea of whats involved for its installation. This R33 runs a GT35/40 with ar.82 exhaust housing on XTR highmount manifold. Custom dump pipe. Turbosmart 35mm wastegate. Microtech LTx12s ECU 580cc Rochester injectors Walbro intank fuel pump Custom Made intake plenum ( but not really necessary ) but makes ccoler piping shorter. Custom Hyperflow intercooler 600x330x105. 80mm throttle body Eboost boost controller. You can run different ecu and intercooler etc but you can get a general idea of supporting mods needed.

Are you sure that you can fit this turbo without the manifold and gate? I think you may be better off getting ECU and fuel system sorted out before you fit the turbo, also find out a bit more about whats invoved in fitting it. If it has a ar 0.7 front cover it will take some swearing to low mount it on a standard manifold. Most likely will need a highmount manifold. Is the turbo internally gated? Ill add some pics of a 35/40 setup so you get an idea of whats involved for its installation. This R33 runs a GT35/40 with ar.82 exhaust housing on XTR highmount manifold. Custom dump pipe. Turbosmart 35mm wastegate. Microtech LTx12s ECU 580cc Rochester injectors Malpassi rising rate fuel reg Walbro intank fuel pump Custom Made intake plenum ( but not really necessary ) but makes ccoler piping shorter. Custom Hyperflow intercooler 600x330x105. 80mm throttle body Eboost boost controller. You can run different ecu and intercooler etc but you can get a general idea of supporting mods needed. This setup shown has standard internals and makes 285 rw kw on 20psi. thats when you valve train packs it up and aftermarket cams and springs are needed. car runs 11.75@124mph and is very streetable. So you are on the right track but need to do it all properly to achieve the best results.

pics added

Aug 86 R31 Skyline GXE wagon. 12 months rego, 5 speed, reconditioned LSD, RB20DET converted running factory ECU, Side mount intercooler fitted in factory position, K&N pod filter fitted under factory airbox, Turbo back exhaust including aftermarket dump pipe, hi-flow cat, 3" exhaust through offset 3" muffler into Cannon. Water pump, timing belt and drive belts were all replaced when engine was fitted. Interior will clean up well, bodywork is fair, paint is poor, but no rust. This is the ultimate sleeper, excellent to drive, will decimate those annoying Cmdre 5.0l drivers which is cool. Asking $5000ono. Located in Wollongong south of Sydney. Please PM me if interested in something that is a little different and alot of fun.

[it will be the problem, i only know because i spent a day trying to figure it out, but i had changed computer at the same time so i wasnt sure what it was, finally removed plugs and plugged harness in directly. All O.K. quote name=MSPEC' date='6 Jun 2006, 03:15 PM' post='2231824] After looking at it and speaking with my mechanic I recon you are spot on. This weekend when I have time I will do exactly what you said to do and I will let you know how it all goes.

Sounds like a missfire under load

let me know how you go.

The advise people are giving you is all good, the smaller turbos you are looking at will give you a good increase in mid range and top end without sacrificing throttle responce to much. I think the 30/37 is your best option, although this setup will require manifold & external gate. If you want to see 300kw at the tyres you will need to be running a GT30/40 with at least ar.82 exhaust housing and at 20psi. you will find that without cams and springs you will suffer from valve float and compressor surge at this boost. but car will be good for a high to mid 11 if you can drive.

its the old saying, you get what you pay for, yes it is more expensive but for good reason. In answering your question, yes it will be more efficient because the charge will stay cooler due to the shorter pipes and there routing. your throttle response will be the same also. People on here will tell you that there are cheaper kits, but i think spending x amount of money on a cooler that does half the job is more a waste than spending more on a cooler kit that does a good job. And before you all get on here and start whinging, this is only advise that i am giving the guy. Which ever way he decides to go is up to him and or yourselves. I am just answering his question which was which kit is better, not cheaper.

turn boost down or put a computer and fuel system to suit.