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R32_GTS4T

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  • Birthday 04/08/1970

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  1. Hi all, I’m after one conrod and one piston oil squirter for my RB26…if anyone can help me out, please contact me on 0402 873 854, or email [email protected]. Cheers, James.
  2. Cool, thanks for the info. I'll have a chat with the guy doing the head, etc, about the guides (he's also looking into K-liners), and I'll bite the bullet and get one of those Trust oil pan upgrade kits...
  3. Hey, have you got any of these parts left? My car got broken into, and they removed the stereo with a crow-bar, so I need a few parts I'm after the climate controls, the thin black trim around them, panel that goes over them, the brakets that hold the controls and stereo in (and screws !) and the trim that goes around the stereo and controls and gearstick, etc. Also need the front half of the centre console, and glovebox. If you have any/all of these, let me know how much and condition (mine was all A1 mint before) Cheers, James.
  4. Hey guys. I'm in the process of getting a complete engine rebuild for my GTR and I need a few bits and pieces. Nissan want about $680 for the gasket set and $46 per valve guide !!! That seems a little steep, and I was wondering if anyone knows a good place for parts. Also, what do people think about getting one of those oil pan upgrade kits since the engine's apart anyway (I haven't had my car on the track, yet, but lets say that I don't drive it like a 20yo Volvo )
  5. Huh ! I can testify to how quick that thing is (and the handling, etc)...chased him round Parli house one nite in my old car (modded GTS4-T), and he blew me away :-)
  6. Just my 2cents...there is a lot more difference between the R32 and R34 turbos than just the ceramic/steel wheels - completely different specs (the R34 are almost the same spec as GT2510's). I know the 15lb limit sounds like a pain, but I had R34 turbos on my GTR, and they kicked ass compared to the R32 ones. Spool up is fantastic (boost starting at 2000, hitting 1 bar at 3100), and they held all the way to 8000. With these turbos (in not the best shape), Nismo front pipes, 3.5" zorst, and adjustable cam gears, I made 225rwkw on a 31deg day with the torque curve of a big block V8. Turns out the oil seals are stuffed and the bearings a bit sus (they bind a little when trying to spin them by hand) so I've now got a set of R34 N1's...bigger again (similar spec to GT2530's) and they have steel wheels...these are supposed to be the ducks guts for street use. Haven't tried them yet cause I've had to pull the motor and rebuild it (spun a bigend bearing )
  7. Now the fun part...I was thinking of sticking with the RB26 block, although I need to bore it, and machine the crank, and get another rod...and as Jay said, it'll get a set of forgies (that post about the Wiseco's looks good), and an oil pan/pickup upgrade, and the bottom end balanced. I'd say that it'll need at least a 0.5mm bore, maybe more... So, with all that, and the new pair of R34N1's bolted to it (can't wait to see how they go), adjustable cam gears, dumps (to go on at the same time) and the 3.5" zorst...what should I do about the comp ratio, etc? Should I go with the Wiseco pistons and a 1.2mm head gasket to keep the compression up or should I drop it a bit? I've been running 14.4psi, but with the new turbo's, etc I know I'm gonna want at least 18...with stock injectors, ecu, etc, should I be able to run 18? I'll probably do some more mods down the track, if necessary, like injectors/pump/reg and/or ecu, but I'm not sure wich way to go. Anyone have any suggestions?
  8. Hey guys...well, as Jay said, no dramas getting it out through the top... The top two bolts on the bell housing are easy enough if you can get together 4 12" extension bars (yes, you need 4 feet to reach them from above and behind the gearbox). Turns out that the starter motor is easy if you have a set of good ratchet spanners (best $55 I've spent). I've stripped the block and head - the verdict, pistons, rings, etc fine apart from the spun bigend bearing on number 6 The conrod is stuffed, and the crank should be ok with a grind, but I should know for sure tomorrow... Also need a new oil squirter for number 6 as the piston knocked it clean off.
  9. Ok. I was offered the dumps with them for a bit extra, but I'm a bit cash deprived at the moment , especially since I might yet be up for more engine repairs (the turbo replacement is stage two of the fault finding). I think dumps will be the next thing to go on my car, I know what a difference it made on my last car.
  10. Yeah...it'll be interesting to see how these go...gonna have to boost it up a bit now too I had a comfortable 225rwkw before, and the car felt wild as it was... Hey Troy, I just clicked who ylwgtr2 is... is your GTR back on the road yet?
  11. Hey Ben, don't really know if there's much of a difference, if any. I was actually pretty set on the pair you had, but I'd talked to CHASP last week about this pair, and he rang me today, so I was kinda obliged to take his, given that they were the same price, etc.
  12. Well...after much deliberation (and a ton of reading) I'm going for a near new pair of R34 NUR spec N1's. Should have them by the end of the week It'll be interesting to see the difference to the old ones...
  13. Cool, thanks for that ylwgtr2...helps a lot to figure out what's what... I know that the N1's are non-ceramic, but what about the standard R34's ? Are the 2 you have stock R34 or N1? Hey DeanJSL, yeah...seems that for what I'm looking for, a pair or 2510/N1/GT-SS should suit fine.
  14. Hey people, I was wondering if someone can tell me the differences between R32, R33, R34, and N1 spec GTR turbos, and how to tell them apart? Seems that the GTR I bought off Andrew last year has neither near new, nor R34 turbos - they are completely stuffed - oil seals gone, heaps of play, and nicked wheels, so I'm looking for another pair. Seems there are some well priced near new pairs out there, but I'd like to be sure of what I'm getting since I've been burnt once already. Also, what are people's ideas on N1 vs 2530 vs GT-SS turbos, given that I liked the spoolup on the current turbos (usable boost at 2000, full boost of 1bar at 3200), and that I'll probably do some mods over time (like Power FC, dumps, etc), but don't want to do any internals (except maybe cams - I already have adj cam gears)? Any help would be appreciated before I splash out next week on a new pair to rescue my car from the workshop (I've been pining for 2 weeks already )
  15. R33 GTR is the same as a late R32 GTR I think... Does anyone out there know for sure ?
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