Risking

charlie is it an early or late model R32 block?? Anychance of PMing me the engine number Thanks Brad...h

Love to know who the hell told you that information! There was a limited run of E8's that were recalled a while back. As far as I was aware they were all rectified though They have crap cold start if its tuned by a monkey with no idea how to use it properly Ive gone from the FC to an E11v2 due to a large cam upgrade. The E11v2 has the abillity (so does the SM4 etc etc) to use the TPS as the primary load source and the MAP as a corection. Making the tune alot nicer than the power FC when they are tunned properly. My RB26 is running perfectly with the E11v2 starts perfectly any time anywhere, it had been sitting for a week and fired up first hit this morning. Its really personal choice but the FC becomes limited when you start tunning with things that are not typical bolt on mods. I agree the autronic is good but the after sales support is next to non existant, atleast with the haltech they are easy to get ahold of and very helpful should have have difficulties.

We've engineered the car, and I know the owner, His actually a nice guy far from a noob as you'd like to asume. Far from a clean stock R33 as well.

I have previously looked into a dynamic allignment to get a base but as you said the cost and difficulty of finding someone is the killer. I can completly appreciate the work that goes into geometry and being in the trade understand your comment about people wanting shinny things or something to look different. At the end of the day spending the time etc getting it right will make it so much better to drive so why not. I was taught that technique a long time ago and its stuck with me. Im glad to hear its a good way of checking as im familiar with it. Ill be re-doing the allignment and setting up the traction arms during the week before going back to oran park (with help this time) on sunday. Interesting about Johns car, 1.5 seconds is alot of time to knock off. Lap times dont lie though so its going to be interesting in the coming weeks. Many thanks Gary, Ive got a good grasp of where the car has been lacking now so with some time and effort it will be quicker than ever.

friggin hell, its really getting behond a joke around the shire now! unfortunatly chances are it wont be found like so many before it. Makes you wonder where the hell so many cars can be going to.

Thanks Gary. Your correct im using the original traction arms but sorted out new ones today. The bushes were all replaced just after I got the car 18months ago. They are still in good nick so ill be sticking with them. No I was not doing a cool down lap before pitting however I was out there by myself so my estimated time before checking tires unfortunatly had to include getting out of the car, going to tool box etc etc. I realised this is less than perfect but figured better then nothing untill you mentioned the temps evening out over the surface after sitting. Im investing in a probe as you suggested. I realise the settings you have recommended are a begining only as I have also done plenty of trial and error to get the car the way I liked it on various circuits, but now it has signifcantly more power im disapointed in the chassis and having to start again basicly. Im hessitant to set the car up how I used to for the wakefield circuit as im almost certain it simply wont work. Steep learning curve I guess. Also in your oppinion is it worth getting a dynamic allignment done if I can find someone capable of doing it?? Do you have any techniques regarding bump steering measuring?? Im only familiar with blocking up the chassis to ride height, removing the spring and setting the control arm at the same angle as it was when the vehicle was on the ground, seting up a dial guage on a plate I have made up that bolts to the hub and measuring the toe differance through the suspensions travel. Its kinda hard to explain but its worked for me in the past but im certain there is a better way. I do my own alligments at the local bobjane, so sometimes ive had to try and be a bit ingenuis with equipement obviously.

South circuit was consiatanly doing 47's on sunday with a borrowed timer, but its got alot more in it once I sort out the suspension issue. Straight line speed was phenominal. Just felt like a drift car through a couple of turns. Yeah im taking it back to oran park on sunday this week for a GP day to get suspension hopefully sorted. Back on dyno the week after for some more boost. Then wakefield on the 23rd for our circuit day And with any luck ill have everything iorned out for the begining of the series in march. Totally agree. you question yourself and think should I shouldnt I then change your mind twice before holding it down hard!

Many thanks for the input gary. Yes the HICAS has been completely removed as you mentioned Rear traction arms have not been fitted to the car yet as ive never really had a need for them (or thought I did) In saying that I asume you bring the hub back (or close to) factory geometry after the camber changes?? I shall try your recommendation with the toe settings for the rear. It has been on my mind since sunday that it would be something to try perhaps. Yes the ride height is exactly that. I used to find it felt better 10mm lower on the rear but thats been raised back up now to get a base line again. I think from memory the roll centers are at 150 or close to it and the rears are less than 250mm, ill have to check through the cars logs to see what they were set to as I have a terrible memory. If its less ill set them to that base to begin with. I see your point about the infared sensors. Which probes do you/would you recomend using?? After reading your suggestions im inclined to agree about the temps more than likely filtering through the tread before my measurments (approx 1-2 mins after leaving the circuit) Ive never run more than 2 deg front camber, I used to find it worked for the way I drove the car and its truely does feel excellent around the majority of the circuit. However I will be trying your suggestion and see how it goes in regards to the camber im running. Its going to wakefield late febuary but ill be trying to get back to oran park in the mean time to try all of the suggested first. I really just need the oversteer gone and it will be a pleasure to race again.

flip flop for sure. I had a decent "moment" there on the weekend, getting way to much speed coming in and not realising how fast everything was coming up Id also say the fish hook at wakefield. Its probably one of the most challenging corners to nail time and time again.

sorry I forgot to mention I have a basic controller in the car. I have it currently at 30/70 split which worked great previously. I have always entered turn 1 very late and had a good run to turn 2 on south circuit. but even now it tends to power oversteer between 1 and 2. to the point I could almost hold a steady slide before backing off and "setting" the car into turn 2. The car is awesome everywhere else and the times reflect that but there is so much more to be had. through the flip flop its a case of nail it in 3rd and steer right through the turn, no sweat. same as turn 2 and 3 really. carry as much speed as I dare and let the car do the rest. I had 1600's pulling away coming onto the main straight as I was oversteering then by pit lane entry I had realed them back in. Was mighty annoying when I knew the car should be able to grip up better.

cutting them is not a problem. I have anything and everything related to cutting/shaping I was basicly thinking 1mm copper, cut it to shape. fit them up and get the manifolds hot on the dyno before retightening the gates back down with the copper hot. Trent how thick typicaly are the copper gaskets you have used?

Gaskets pysically blow out and are gone. I could run it metal to metal but Id rather try and keep something between them if possible. Reason being is the stainless steel valve seat sits on the manifold flange and I cant really be sure its flat once bolted down as it puts preload onto the spring.

Ill start with the general set-up of the vehicle. Its an R32 GTR. Ohlins dampners with 6kg front and 4.5kg rear springs ARC adjustable sway bars. Adjustable rear camber arms Adjustable front castor rods Roll center adjusters (lower control arm) Usual strut bracing Comprehensive Half cage(front section currently not finished) 245 A048's hot temp of 32psi Currently using 7degrees castor total 2mm toe out on the front 2deg neg camber front Rear camber 1deg neg rear toe total 1mm toe in Sway bars were set to medium rear, soft front. Ride height is set correctly New engine is making more power but otherwise the same. Now this all used to work really well with the old engine. However now with the new engine im finding a massive ammount of power oversteer. The attessa is working perfectly and the transfer case is not that old. Perfect example is coming onto oran parks main straight I used to come into the final turn and be able to brush past the wall with confidence. Now however the rear ends so taily im having to use up alot more circuit than I like too. I tried all types of sway bar combinations over the weekend however everything seemed to give me the same result. Tire temps are even all the way accross the surface and was checked using an infa red sensor (I cant remember the temp but its written down in my log from the day) It does suffer from some mid corner understeer as well but thats always been there and ive come to accept it. Am I missing something with the setting up of what I have? Could the use of the half cage and not having the front section fitted yet be contributing to the problem? Can anyone suggest possible changes to what im using? Im sure ive missed some info but if people have useful input or need extra info any help is appreciated. Thanks In advance Brad.

Having an issue with wastegate gaskets. Basicly RB26 with twin tial gates. Had it out on oran park over the weekend and was performing brilliantly. Spooling early plenty of usuable tourque Now its running a lot of boost and making some serious grunt hence the heat is killing the gaskets between the gates and the manifolds after a few sessions at full noise. Now the surfaces have been ground flat and ive tried all the conventional gasket material types. My next though is to make copper gaskets. Has anyone had any experiance in using copper as wastegate gaskets or can anyone suggest a better material than copper? Im getting tired of pulling the gates off to replace gaskets and sick of driving a laggy car after 3 sessions.

I rekon there is a few white 180sx's they have. Its really behond a joke now. Anyone leaving there cars around the shire should really have some form of killswitches fitted. They stole mine by breaking in cleanly. Then smashing the ignition off the steering colum. They removed the ignition switch from the key barrel and could have used anything from there to start it and drive away. I think if the thing wont start straight up they will leave it alone and nick off. Alarms are way to easy to get around but well hidden switches can be very difficult to find in a hurry.

were doing a park/resevre type meet guys. Sorry but there is no way picton can be feasable with the ammount of people we had last time. Polaak is the place you suggested easy to access?? Shane what about yours? Perhaps a drive is in order over the weekend paul?? (I still got one legit non defected GTR to use)

Paul No I never got names or anything, I just got told where to pick the dumped car up from and went there. Steve and darren have all the info I have anyways. The people your dealing with have without a doubt stolen many of the cars lattely.

steve theres next to no doubt the people that have taken it are the same ones that took my GTR from autosport.

we,ve built a few of these and you dont need massive power to run decent times or have a good street car. Here is an article on the old S13 greg built which ran an 11.6 with less than 300Kw. S13 article

depends on the base circle of the lobe. If its a 31mm lobe then no they wont fit without machining out the head, If they are 30mm base circles then chances are they will clear the head but require new shims or bucket/shims to accomodate. Honestly get them anyways and machine out the head, its so worth the extra effort.

hahah, what you think works.

month ago an evo 9 was stolen in a similar way. Owner was showing it to a "middle easten apperance" person and the barstard drove off in the car leaving the owner standing there! And Chris' yellow EVO from kirrawee just last week as well.

lost your boost jeff!!! Tends to happen with oem GTR turbos. Not to hard to check it out though.

alright im going to say sunday night then guys, Shal we say 7-730 meet up?? I duno jeff bout what to do but my GTR has just been fired up its pretty cranky. I suggest food (hmmm old run to oportos comes to mind!!!)

typically no they are not a clearance engine. Ive had belts fail on RB30's and its not particularly pretty. Of all the 30's ive built and worked on none of them have ever been free runners.