Risking

I guess it would.

No worries, next time you have a free weekend come past home an check it out. The whole engine is sitting out atm so its pretty easy to see how its all been set-up prior to being fitted to the car. Im still working the small bugs out that I ran into on a spare engine before fitting into the car for the last time. Biggest problem im having is the actualy sump pan and scavneger. Aaron was telling me about the engine you have coming over, sounds like you found a half decent buy with it, well done. If you want to offload the old donk let me know, may be interested as a 2nd spare.

As of right now No. Im planning to shake the car down at the skid pan next weekend with the new transmission and brakes then the 1st at Oran THEN if there are any spots available Ill enter it into the state round once im confident it will be okay. Have the 2nd round of the MRA series coming up too, I missed the first round due to broken gearbox.

Ive just done this conversion today with a set of 2 piece 355mm rotors. The EVO9 Brembo I used took this size rotor very well and fit up fine with simple adaptors I made up in a few hours. Im not sure about an bias issues as im running an in car bias adjustor which will obviously be set up at a latter date. If anyone is thinking about the conversion id seriously recommend it. The brakes are so much cheaper than GTR brembos and the benifits outweight the slight cost of the adaptors

There is only two ways Chris. Shorten the upper arms Or lengthen the lower ones.

Its true it is a nugget. Just a reasonably quick nugget thats all. If Ive got it ready for the skid pan I may share it around. Chances are yes Ill be at the Skid pan day. I have not entered as yet but ill get onto eddie this week about it.

heading out for the 1st Duncan?? Ill have the GTR brakes done by then so might take both cars for a thrash and spend some time to get the bias and suspension working together again. I want you to take my thing for a spin and give your oppinion.

im about to fit a lexan passengers window and remove the drivers (will use a net instead) You have to retain a glass windscreen for saftey in most events. By the time you remove the glass, motor, regulator and wiring assosiated with it there can be decent savings per door. Ive also removed all the old steel lines this week and replaced with alluminium/ speed flow fittings. The steel ones are really not that heavy but the alloy is lighter and its fresh. Andrew whilst you not using that headlight can I borrow it and make a mould? I want to make a carbon item but cant find a decent one to mould it from.

The requirements mentioned on the site are the final ones I asume?? Planed to enter mine in the open class but after reading the regs if I fit a few things back in I can go street.

There is a fitting already there thats o ringed to seal. Ive used the trust ones from high octane, and also a factory one I modified on my own GTR. Simplifies the water lines under the plenum somewhat which always makes it easier to work on.

Dave the collar is easy. Dont buy one. Leave it to sam.

had a similar issue with the GTR. Checked the rotors and found minimal run out etc. In the end I had a dynamic wheel allignment done and found that the rack mounting bushes were allowing the rack to move side to side under brakes and when cornering obviously. Easier and far cheaper test is to lever the rack with a bar and see of it has movement side to side. Pulling the bushes out revealed the insides were oily. I cleaned them up and refitted it was good for a few meetings before the problem came back. I replaced the rack bushes and have never had the problem since. Perhaps something to have a look at.

From me experiance with recently setting up the GTR you better off setting the bars to close to the fatcory spec firstly. Medium probably in your case. I actually went back to factory bars initially. From there I focused on getting the tire to work properly, buy a pyrometer or at least an infa red thermometer and check tread temps after a session. Set up the allignment so the tire is working to its potential then use the sway bars. I went out firstly with an alligment I thought would be good but found it to need much more camber and a little more toe out to get the tires working properly. I found after getting my alligment to a position I was semi happy I was left with minimal understeer. I left the front bar in the center of its adjustment and slid the rear till the understeer was less apparent. I dont have hole type adjustment Im using slide types.

its made that amount of power due to the fact its lean. Seriously if your watching a dyno opperator and worried about them blowing your car up ( Considering he completed that power run id be worried as well) then you should be looking else where. If its pinging and the engine is basicly stock like you say then check the basics first. Base ignition timing, base fuel pressure etc. If his any good he should have a flow guage and pressure guage to test the pumps output.

presentation is always important though even in a race car. Id just use the normal battery box and vent it to the outside of the car For mountings I normally buy a universal battery clamp from repco or super crap and drill holes through the box into the floor to put the hooks through. Works fine.

ABS brakes in Kirrawee are pretty cheap.

Check Ebay, search for lap timer. There is a place on there selling different packages for under 400 bucks, they work really well and come with laptop software etc.

Tank with sender and pump is 13Kg. Cant remember if it had the heat sheilding still attatched or not though

hmmm nope dont think it was me your refering to. Cant say ive ever bought rods from you. sorry.

Item: Pair of front outlaw 4000 callipers and near new rotors. Callipers are an all alloy two peice item with 47mm leading pistons and 44mm trailing pistons. They have adaptors to suit an R32 GTR and anything else thats the same I guess. Callipers have just been over hauled and not refitted since. New seals, bleed nipples, cleaned /measured pistons etc. Rotors are two peice alloy hat items, They are 330mm in diameter and off the shelf HSV dimensions so easy to obtain come replacement time. They have done 1000 road Kms and two or three sprint days. Slight discolouration as the last time they were used oil spilt onto them and stained the surfaces. Can machine lightly if buyer wants but never been machined previously. Pads are EBC green stuff with approx 80-85% remaining. Age: Honestly Have no idea of the actual age but refer above. Price: Im asking $2400 negotiable. If you add up the cost of the rotors with hats, pads and callipers its not to bad. Location: Im located in sydney, will post though Outlaw 4000 callipers spec Ill put photos up if there is legit interest. Can also supply a full tilton pedal box, remote master resevours and willwood bias adjuster for extra cost obviously.

if sammy is machining it all up there is no problem with me showing you how to do it. Better you learn whats involved rather than paying someone to wack together an engine. Next time I meet up with you tell me exactly whats being done and will go from there.

run it around 9.2-9.3. the results will all come from whoever you choose to tune it but. sammy will only take off what needs to be taken. Id say dont deck the block unless it needs to be. You need to have this engine put together and measured correctly. It needs to have the squish bands etc all measured as well and piston to valve clearances set properly. Several mock up assemblies will be needed to get it all correct.

The box you got may require bearings and is the original box that came with the wine red GTR you purchased from Greg. It shifts fine besides the usual high RPM heesitation GTR boxes have but has some bearing noise.

Jay next weekend, Gearbox on my car friday night after work, then the RENEW wakefield day. You up for that??

jeff the surging will pretty much be elliminated once its tunned properly this week! You honestly have no idea what the engine is like till its been tunned and finished. GTss' are not a turbo that causes surging like you have, the tune thats running your engine is basicly the same one that was running it prior to the engine rebuild and the turbo conversion. Dont buy cams till its done and then decided if your not happy with the surging issue. Honestly if your going to turn it into a track car the money your going to spend on cams etc would be much better spent towards better suspension/half cage/ brakes etc etc. The cruising surge you have is not going to effect the car on the track and it wont be nearly as bad as what it is now.