Risking

Jeff ill tune the power FC this week. Ill give you a call probably tuesday to organise something that suits Withe the FC and that nasty little bump worked out of the power curve it should be very nice to drive

12 is too low really. If everything is working fine I like to tune into the low 30's. Obviously depending on NVH etc every car is different and as such the knock meter on the FC cant really be gospel. Srewed up piston to bore clearances etc etc can contribute as well There is no substitute for physically listening for detonation OR a proper knock box.

If you have never been out on the circuit before your seriously wasting your time with the whole slicks idea. Best off going out with decent street tires, getting the feel for cutting the apex and using clean lines before trying to go all out and do quick lap times on slicks. A set of decent RE55's will cost you roughly 1300-1400 bucks.

Id rather have the grip up the front of you are only going to run a pair. Just use what you have and buy new street rubber afterwards.

Your asking for trouble if your running a previously tunned ECU in any car without at least a power run or SOME type of lambda check up!!!! Knock is ony half the equasion. I lean tune cando the same ammount of damage that detonation will.

^^^^^^^^^^^ Id agree 100% Buy a set of 17's

Its retarded in that particular section of the map. Poor tune really. You will find whoever has tunned it probably did the cruise/high load stuff and didn't bother to get the rest of the map sweet. Do a map trace and drive the car around for 15mins. You will find the majority of cells have been tagged. It can only take a small section of the map to be way wrong and the general feel of the car turns to crap.

It certainly didn't sound like it had been tunned.

haha good time not a long time!!

Clutch pivots are a problem every now and then. The GTR broke one off a few weeks back.

You cant have a straight cut helical set. Its either straight cut OR helical. Unless one the usual 1,2,3 are straight and the rest are helical?? I've used a PPG in my old S13, it seemed okay and held up just fine. It never did many K's as the car was sold before the engine was even run in. If its a circuit car you can get away with the dog engagement. Most of the broken dog engagements Ive seen have been on street cars due to the difficult nature of changing gears.

Id only replace the seals if they are leaking. Definitly replace the spigot bush and thrust bearing. Thing with seals is if you put a new one in it might leak! If you leave the old one that is not leaking it usually won't leak! My theory is if it aint broke dont fix it!

Yep, thats the one. Its a decent clutch so far.

I work in the shire with STRETCH. Looking to buy over that way soon. Gunmetal 32 GTR and a black XR6 ute.

My GTR has one. Making 340Kw its been in there for a while and seen plenty of track work. All comes down to how hard you are and what you expect of the clutch.

Help I Can't Actually Steer

The FC IS NOT LOCKED. I have unlocked it and locked it etc but it never made any difference. Im not new to the FC so its NOT a user issue. When trying to access the ignition map via datalogit the laptop constant freezes, have tried several laptops and the software is the same stuff Ive been using for years. I dont have an early model comander hence why his trying to borrow one to see of I can access the ignition map via the commander and hopefully be able to finish tunning it. Software and laptop were used on another R33 GTR straight after Jeff's without any issues at all.

Like Jeff said for some reason datalogit won't recognise the ignition maps so Im wanting to try a commander before a new FC. All my commanders are late model ones and dont work with his FC.

Give sam at westend performance a call. If he can't get them you wont get them ( I know he can get them easily) Westend Performance 46254100

Im not sure what it was running finished, I only had a hand in the turbo selection which was a humble S15 T28. They should handle the regular 8-10 psi with a well tunned ECU. Design wise the bottom end is brilliant untill you get to the ridiculos balancing ideas

I havent built a Turbo QR25 but I have seen it done, afar more common conversion is the SR20VE.

The Q45 wount physically fit into the T30. The VQ35 on the other hand. Murano version will line up very well. I have looked over the wiring involved and its not to difficult depending what series T30 you have.

I have fitted several different engines to the z33. Ive done the VQ40 from the pathfinder and also the 35th engine into my own maxima. I have also done the RB26 into the Z33. Whilst getting the engine in is no big task getting it to work with the Z33 chassis and body systems is a nightmare. The vehicle I did now has fully opperational VDC with the RB26 and the CAN bus opperated perfectly besides the ECM section. The suspension needed a complete revamp as the entire car felt soggy on the track and was struggling to lap wakefield in 1.15's. It now laps all day everyday in 1.06's and is pleasent to drive. With the Attessa system being interfaced into the Z car you will be needing the entire ABS system from the GTR and ALOT of knowledge about the system. Your buddy may know how to fabricate but thats honestly the least of your problems come time to get it working properly. In all honesty work with what you have OR buy a GTR. The end result will be so much better to drive.

Nissan are very much your only option and they are not very expensive. roughly 2 bucks each from memory. A better alternative is to but quality air craft locking style nuts from a good fastners place and they will never rattle loose.

Have you checked the wiring and plug that goes to the power steering pressure switch and the Power head on the actualy rack?? Also there is a fuse under the dash which might have blown causing the heavy steering.