Risking

Hmm they are rather nice might look into getting a set in to try on my GTR. There certainly are a few neat little tricks to getting the turbo's on an off quickly. But once everything is removed from around the area its really not hat hard. Angus smart which GTR is yours?? we see so many of them its next to impossible to keep track of them atm.

Hahah, that always a good sign! Its the input shaft bearing for sure. You can have it changed without stripping the box if your mechanic has sutiable pullers the get the bearing out by pulling in the circlip groove.

Uras what brand are those?? Ive seen and fitted a few sets that have been supplied by the customer. I know tomei do them but they look different to those. Id agree with you they look awesome comapred to any elbow design dump.

78mm pistons?? Standard bore size is 86mm for the RB25. The RB20 has a 78mm bore. I think you may be looking at the wrong pistons?? There is really no reason to go big name jap pistons. For almost every application there are plenty of local forged pistons that are easy to get and in most cases cheaper. get prices on CP's, Arias, weisco's, ACL's etc before purchasing Tomei pistons. Ive used tomei pistons recently in an SR20 the owner supplied them and tomei rods. I wasnt overly impressed. They were all within spec but size and weight variances were a bit great for the dollars he paid. The rings are average and the ring clearances (not end gaps but groove clearances) were absolutly rubbish. The rods needed a bit of work to get the right oil clearances which is typical of any brand really. Just be warry that another product may save you a few bucks and be just as good for what you want it to o.

Its not possible to get them off without atleast loosening off the turbos and manovering them around. I did a set today its not hard just time consuming and patience testing. Takes roughly half a day to do them. Some aftermarket dumps can be removed with the turbos fitted but others cant and the OEM ones need to be removed to get the pipes off. If your planning future mods that require engine removal like a sump baffle etc then save it for that time. If not then have them done with the engine in.

If you have them id say fit them. OEM dumps are not that bad. Ive tunned engines with them making 320-330 atw's obviously they are not the best thing but they work.

Auto sport is located in kirrawee. www.autosport.net.au

Regardless of the scale the power delivery is still going to remain linear.

Exactly right. Otherwise its pretty neat. Its got a similar curve to my old GTR, very linear and awesome to drive so much fun

She's a bit lean overall in the top end but otherwise a really good result. Very nice flat curvo so I imagine its really nice to drive.

You cant use the wrong head gasket. There are no extra oil returns that are blocked off to the extent your getting. Also as he stated it has a return externally from the head to the sump so you will find the majority returns via that! Its going to be a ring issue. I dunno who built it but was it done properly and EVERY thing checked. Oftern is the case a builder wont measure ring end gaps and side clearance mearly assuming its right. LTHLRB it sounds like this Created workshop dont know much about building a tight engine if they all use oil!! Ive built many many top end SR20's over the years and only had 1 or 2 that have had any blow by and both were rush jobs that were needed right then and there. If its all built right forgies or no forgies there should be stuff all oil in the catch can. I can do a years worth if racing in the GTR and not even look in the can.

Agreed about dial indicators and wheels. Esspecially after head machining/gaskets etc etc. As for a general "optimum" setting there is no such thing. Every car and every owner responds differently. I agree with Barron about the whole tunners perspective but honestly you will find those that dont beleive in tunning with gears are the ones that Dont really understand what they are trying to acheive ( they dont see bigger numbers at the top so it must be a waste of time and effort right??) Its all too time consuming and they dont fully understand what they are doing (they are not as good as they say they are at the end of the day) I dont see my reply as sarcastic or rude I see it as the truth. There are good gains to be had in drivability, mid range and top end also. RB25's respond well to a gear as do the 26's. SR20's usually I dial the cams if they are aftermarket and make an educated decission if gears are needed or not from the dowl locations on the given cams.

Semi slicks are the go. Ill be using RE55's this time. Bugger the little bit of water,

set it at 0 would be agood start.

All made the same power or within 1rwkw so it is never a case of whether or not the EMU is capable. These results were the first few shreds of evidence that initially sparked my interest in the product. Mt tuning has shifted from 95% PFC to about 50% PFC 40% EMU and 10% various. Ill second that. My tunning has varried greatly as well lattely. Used to do Power FC after Power FC. Tunned a blue in an R32 today and the difference is fairly great between the two. The slight lack of fine injector control does make a difference with the blue model but still a good thing.

You cant compare the two they are in completely differnt leauges!! The Power FC will always make a much more substancial gain thatn somethats doing half a job. There is good gains to be had with a well tunned power FC regardless of what anyone says. With the mods you have YES go and buy one have it tunned and enjoy a really good car even more. And while your at it fit a cheap exhaust cam gear and have it set at the same time

Is this for those Air fuel controller things you build?? I tunned one of them the other day, not much fun to use thats for sure!

Sorry im in sydney so cant really comment on them. Anywhere with a TK tester and some knowledge should be able to diagnosis it for you though

they are good but for a serious tune you need a knock box or at least know what your doing with ignition timing maps

I wouldnt be using those apexi things. To start with they are not very acurate and frankly why would you want to tune something so rough?? Buy yourself something like an emanage etc and tune it properly. I agree with the cam gear suggestions tunned well they can make respectable gains. A good EBC is also an excellent idea, however I dont think CAI is really an major player when it comes to lag. Does the turbo really care what temperature the air entering it is?? Yes on a cold night there is a remarkable difference but honestly intake temps on a normal day will not drop that much with a CAI.

Blocked injectors are not going to cause this issue. You havent tried a cam angle sensor but I doubt that will be your problem either. Instead of trying to diagnosis a problem and having it drag out forever invest the 80-100 bucks a workshop will charge and let them find the problem. At least this way the problem is diagnosised your not wasting time or money guessing and you have a repair estimate etc from the shop that you choose.

You dead set have no idea do you?? Seriously search the forum OR preferably go find agood engine builder and tunner and talk to them about it. Who are you going to use to build and tune it??

Mate your making little to no sense what so ever. I just looked at your previous posts and the majority are much more coherant that what your posting now. Step it up a little and perhaps people whould take you seriously and reply with some good information. OR try searching the forum cause everything you seen to want has been covered hundreds of times before.

you dont want massive top end if its a daily driver. Wouldnt you rather an engine that is super responsive and pleasant to drive?? Again talk to a good engine builder and let him make the desicions for you. Other wise with the limited knowledge you have your going to end up with a crap vehcile to drive.

pedders would not have missed anything, they would have found stuff that isnt really wrong if anything