Risking

Jesssss.... When do you want me and the ute because I'm going to have to get my line over there as well.. hmmm.. maybe I get a parental to drive the line over. - Corinne

Ladies Ladies, No need to start a fight, unless I have some beer wait no lots of beer and you two are in a jelly pool. - Corinne

^^^^^^^ His right you know!

my car hasnt been washed in months and I dont intend to wash it any time soon either.

how did you come to that conclusion?? The numbers provided have no reference to the actual wheels being used in the turbo only the core. Unless they purchased an entire core with matching wheels it wont be a 3076. I dont think the Op6 housing will actually take that size exhaust wheel come to think of it. Without removing the housings and measuring it up and working out the trims or talking to the builders its not possible to reference any numbers besides the core numbers.

so did you have a whole core and wheels purchased?? then the housings machined or was the turbo built from parts??

Those numbers are really irrelevant with a high flow. you cant be sure of whats in there unless you measure it and check for yourself. Ive seen tagged turbos done by very reputable places that were tagged wrong etc. I dont think its that large. Ive fitted R33 highflows where the comp housing snout was so thin I was worried about the weight of the clamp crushing the snout! Personally im not a fan of any high flow turbo unless you have it built a specific spec. For the cost of 3037's etc these days I go with something I can view a comp map of first. Personaly preferance though. At the end of the day you have had it done so wack it on and find out what its like.

andrew your compression ratio is actually 9:1. After CCing the head and so forth I found it worked out at 9:1. Thats a tunning run graph you have posted yeah?? Its only scaled from 115Kms the big straight line looks funny as!

without knowing the inducer and exducer sizes its next to impossible to say. Its depends soely on those sizes. Bring it around and ill rip the housings off and measure it up. Like nismoid said its some form of t04S comp wheel so possibly a 52 trim front. I had a bit of info on the common R33 highflows and wheel selecetions somewhere but I cant find it atm. A quick call to the guys that did it and they should be able to give you wheel part numbers at least even if they dont know the actual dimenssions.

Im with nismoid. That tune is average. and the advise your being given is poor as well Leave the pump in it, leave the stock fuel reg drop the boost slightly to prolong the turbo's life and have it tunned properly. At that sort of mod level id be tunning it to roughly 12.2 :1 and it will make very decent power, I know you only have a neo so there is only basic tunning to do but honestly that AFR graph looks like something my apprentice could knock out.

mongrel turbos suffer surge and alot of the early GCG high flows do. Do you know the actual wheels sizes?? with thme it can easily be matched up with the garrett items

contact Greg at autosport engineering. I know for a fact he has exactly what your looking for. 95211388

I tunned a GTR yesterday which made the same power at 1 bar dave. Have you ever even comp tested it??

Dave I checked a few of my old tunes tonight for you. 24 under full load is alittle low. Im running 32 at WOT with my tune and generally 28-30 is the base line. Do you have aknock box to use when tunning?? If not your welcome to borrow mine and do it properly.

Tried gearbox express in ingelburn?? I do all my own transmissons but usally buy any obscure syncros and clips from them.

Dave ive got a cross mission that will be up for sale very shortly with new bearings and syncros. Its basicly just a hollinger, I keep breaking 3rd so im finially biting the bullet and fitting a Trust dog box. Ive been getting around without 3rd for a while now you get used to it after a while. Same old story mechanic that couldnt be bothered!

It is right, thats the reason your using them, the clamping force is so much better than the OEM items. BE sure to use the lube provided as it does make a difference to load your putting on the stud.

Interesting. In nsw we dont really have any licenced noise testers. Its usually tested by the blue slipper at time of defect clearnce or engineers report and thats as far as it goes. Im not sure how you will be able to clear it in Vic without going there and having it tested according to their rules. I know if your in QLD and get a defect under NSW rego you have to return to NSW for a certified blue slip, QLD road worthy is not good enough for our RTA. Id assume your going to be in the same situation.

I have seen that exact problem with an S14 and Power FC. Flat and terrible to drive at anykind of light throttle. If it steps out of operating temp I usually pull out a few degrees and richen the mixture up. Im not a big fan of pulling bucket loads of timing out for the exact reasons Rob82 mentioned. Uras you end up with -30 at 110 degrees?? No big deal as something is very wrong for it to get that hot but curious none the less.

Adam is good. If your considering using him them go ahead.

In comparrision all of the RB series engines are shit house in both design and function. Nissan would not have had a hope in hell even with development against these engines. These engines are far smoother, and nicer to use than enything nissan could ever have come out with in the RB series. You cant compete with the direct injection system and its something that almost every manufacturer has struggled to get off the ground with and particularly nissan. Hats off to BMW who have successfully launched the system. Nissans flagship engine is obviously the VQ35 and VQ40 which is tonnes better than the RB engines from a D & F perspective. Even these dont rate in the international engine awards because they are far to harsh and not nearly refined enough to compete.

I gave up on the leaks. Just let them go. Only leaks out the Crank seal after a few hard laps when the oil thins out and everything gets really hot so meh.

Dave you have any form of aftermarket sump baffles fitted??? We run tomei baffles in all of out RB26's and never have any problem with surging. Ive got guage in my GTR and after 100's of wakfield laps, oran park and eastern creek laps Ive not once seen a fluctuation in oil pressure. I usualy over fill by a litre anyways but only because the thing still leaks out the crank seal when it gets really hot.

Probably a "high Flow injector" issue. Ive had it in the past with BIG high flows. They are not meant to be re-sized like that. You can get pintle harmonics and all sorts if issues with them. If a new ECU does not solve it (id be throwing the microguess in the bin anyways) then try a set of injectors.

Im with Nismoid. Why bother with a big dollar or even custom sump when the OEM item with the diff removed and baffles fitted with sufice perfectly. If you fit an oil cooler you have increased the volume slightly and honestly if your going all out ditch the sump and use a dry set-up straight up. Greg's S15 with the RB26 fitted runs a factory sump and has no issues whats so ever and Id garantee it takes a lot more circuit abuse than 90% of the other cars getting around.