scathing

They never made LHD Skylines and the RB isn't remotely emissions compliant, which pretty much killed their popularity over there. But it makes them super rare, and super expensive. It didn't help that the only "official" GT-R importer got busted for falsifying documents regarding their cars' compliance, either. I'm on a 350Z forum, and one of the guys was thinking of trading in his 350Z for a stock R33 GTS-t. If there was a cash adjustment, it was almost miniscule or in the Skyline owner's favour. Can you see that happening in Australia? Most of the Aussie guys who saw that thread told him he was insane, but then we look at it from a different perspective. For them, they're so rare I guess its worth it. Its like us paying AUD$100,000 for a RHD converted Mustang - over there they top out at USD$42K - which isn't even AUD$60K.

Its ironic, that. It seems that RWD drag cars still end up ultimately being quicker. I'm not sure how true it is, but after the discussion about the HKS "drag" R33 GT-R finally broke into the 7's a while ago, one of my V8 loving mates remarked that there have been worked Falcodores doing it for a while.

My vote is for your mother.

Yeah, I used to have one too. First car I ever drove. Taught me everything I need to know about driving (which explains a lot). I checked the VSI's for modified cars when I had it, and with the car's kerb weight you can legally fit a 5.0L FI engine (Holden 308 twin turbo, anyone?) or a 5.7L NA (350 Chev, LS1, etc). Got sleeper? And mine was tough too. I drove it hard, and drove it into a few things, and the thing just kept on running. I also once had some guy in an EA Falcon mistake his throttle pedal for his brake and shunt into the back of me. The Falcon's front bar was smashed, radiator mounts broken, cracked headlights. My Volvo's rear bumper was scuffed and marked with the Falcon's paint, and with a KFC moist towelette I got rid of that.

If you sold the BMW and took the money from that, along with your $15K, and bought a tuned S13 you could be running 13s without all the f**king about.

Behold your new car! Volvo 242 Turbo. You can't feel any safer than in a Swedish brick, and its a RWD turbo 2 door so it must be fully sick.

Still, its only making an extra 8hp with that extra 500rpm of redline, and new internals. Although the shot on the Wards site doesn't show it, I believe its meant to have a dual intake rather than the single the older VQ's have had. I would have expected far more power than just 8hp at the flywheel, especially if it spins more smoothly.

Source: Wards Auto

Not entirely true. Where did you hear it from? For starters, the GT500 cars run VQ30DETTs, and they do OK so there's no issue with the block itself. The VQ35DE's biggest problem is its softer-than-shit bottom end. It'll only reliably make around 300rwkW - push it harder and you'll eventually snap a rod. Of course, since the engines only exist in NA guise the OEM fuel system needs to be replaced too, but that's to be expected. That said, if you keep it under 300rwkW the VQ is fine. The standard APS TT uses a pair of GT2871R's blowing 7psi to make around 280rwkW, which isn't too shabby considering its practically lag free. To put it in perspective, a stock 350Z will make around 155rwkW. I know a couple of daily driven TT 350Z's with unopened engines, and they've had no dramas. The only one I'm aware of that's blown up was one that had been boosted to 320rwkW. As for what the VQ will handle if you do build it up, how about a "streetable" 550rwkW? As for what the VQ will do if you go all out and forget street use, apparently this drag 350Z runs a VQ block, and makes 1800hp (from sources not in the comments field of that YouTube page). The estimates I've seen in car magazines is that they think the GT-R will have around 330kW - which given what an aftermarket TT kit will do the engine is way too low in my opinion. You'd think with the extra displacement, FI bottom end, and all that R&D they would squeeze out 400kW+.

There are a few SR powered E30's floating around. The M3 in that generation also ran a 4 pot so I guess the weight distribution wouldn't lend itself to a cast iron inline 6, so I'd be inclined to go for an SR20DET. But it depends on what you want to do with the car. If you just want it to go fast in a straight line, nose heaviness won't bother you but the extra torque from a bigger 6 cylinder will be more appreciated. If you're looking at going to a lightweight corner carver instead, how about a Toyota 4AG-GZE? Or for something completely out of left field, will a Holden 308 fit in it? E30 with a 5.0L V8

I probably should have quoted Greg on that one, to show that I was indicating I was responding to him ^_^ Dezz - do you notice the same lack of top end that Greg has, with your setup?

Nah, that thing doesn't fly. This thing flies

Are you running a high flow panel filter in the standard airbox as well, or the stock one? That might see you flow a bit better in the top end, too. How about any CAI plumbing? Can you vent air into the airbox's intake snorkel from a high pressure zone outside the car? You might find that, with those two simple bits, that you'll get that same increase in midrange with an almost equal amount of top-end gain as a pod filter.

Would searching the forums kill you?

As opposed to other people, who apparently have the time to sit here and answer inane questions by you and your kind for the upteenth time because you guys can't be bothered doing any research? Great attitude. Most people aren't here to lecture on Car Modifications 101 to people, especially when its already been explained a million times before. They're here to learn new things, and only when they can't find it will they go and ask.....so other people with the same questions in the future can find it down the track. If you don't care enough to actually go and look, then I'd say you don't care enough to go and modify your car. Why not go buy yourself a Corolla, don't worry about getting into the car modification culture, and just go "have your life and do your things"? But, if you want to know how to shave 2 seconds off your ET in a NA vehicle, with almost no cost, then this article from Sports Compact Car should be your guide.

At $38K, those V35s will have cloth trim, and possibly no climate control air. I assume that the guys are only bringing in VQ35DE powered cars, but its quite possible in the $25K range you're looking at a VQ30DE powered one. Given that you can get low-spec 350Z's overseas with no VLSD, its quite possible that these entry model V35s won't have one either. Either way, its hardly comparable to the spec levels of an Australian delivered 350Z. A V35 350GT, which does have a trim level equivalent to a Z33, will cost you in the $50K bracket. Brembos were available for a while on the V35, but after a certain year I believe they were discontinued. You can always retrofit them. Same with 18" wheels (most of the V35s I've seen brought in only have 17" rims), and as if you wouldn't go aftermarket anyway. And I've seen plenty in manual - they're definitely out there.

Australia rarely ever gets the low-spec versions of any volume production car. Especially if those low-spec cars have smaller engines. Since our market is very small manufacturers won't be able to import every model, so they just import the best ones. If you look at the Euro econoboxes that get brought in, none of them have the sub 1.4L engines that the entry models back in Europe have. Because they know no-one in Australia is going to buy a car with an engine that small. And look at the 350Z - we get the top of the line, and the one below. In the US and Japan there are about 5 variants, the other 3 being even lower equipped than our Touring (no Bose stereo, no LSD, no TCS, cloth trim). If Nissan Australia were to have brought in the V35 Skyline, they wouldn't have settled for anything less than a 3.5L (probably a cloth trimmed one for an entry model, and the 350GT as a range topper).

Several companies have tried to get sequential turbos to work, and most of them have failed. Whether its a torque hole during the transition (i.e. B4) or the convoluted plumbing that has a reputation for failing (RX7), eventually people give up on it. I don't know why you'd want to have sequential turbos that are the same size (a la the 2JZ-GTE) - if you want something to spool faster before you get the big power, why not get a smaller turbine matched to a bigger one? If they're the same size you may as well put them in parallel (like the RB26DETT) rather than in series, and just use smaller turbos. Of course, the new BMW 335 has a sequential setup and by all accounts its a smooth engine. I wouldn't mind taking one for a drive and giving it a go, but it might be a sequential turbo setup worth buying.

It was a great idea from Subaru, wasn't it? Move the lag out of the low-end of the rev range, and put it smack into the middle of the rev range.

I've seen one of the original G-Techs used. The guy ran a 101rwkW in his CA18DET S13 at Unigroup's dyno, and then when he was going home it measured 99rwkW on one of his street "power runs". So, pretty damned accurate.

Looks like Mitsubishi isn't the only company that can sell a 4WD four door that'll outrun a Murcie.

How many times can people ask if these one-size-fits-all dodgy resistors do anything useful? Spend $35 on half a tank of Shell V-Power Racing - the 100RON fuel will probably give you a more noticable torque increase across the entire rev range than this product, and be less likely to destroy your engine (even if you take the "ethanol f**king your engine" stuff at face value).

I'd take an E280 CDI for a cross country tourer.

Most drifters opt for a 2 way LSD, so the car's attitude is consistent during on-off throttle. And viscous LSDs (which I assume the S13 turbos used, mechanical LSDs weren't really prevalent back then) don't lock up too well. That's what makes them relatively "streetable". If you're on a budget you could try using a more viscous fluid so it will lock up faster. Viscous LSDs are inherently 2 way, so it might suit your drifting needs. There is an aftermarket for VLSD fluid, although its not a big one since most people who want to "tune" their LSD end up going to a mechanical.

The most elegant turbocharger systems are variable vane, which while experimented with by the Japanese are still the sole domain of the European diesel cars, and now the 997 Turbo. The best variable valve timing / lift setup is Ferrari's, with the 3D camshaft lobe for almost infinite adjustability of duration and lift. So, it appears to be the Europeans for the examples given before. Then in terms of the highest revving production car engine that belongs to a Japanese company, but its not Nissan. Same with the most advanced drivetrain - the Evo's AYC / ACD setup shits all over the ATTESSA in terms of technology and advancement.