Keeper

Thanks guys. One sorted

I'm currently in Port Macquarie for training, had to bring my GTR down this time as my mum has my other car. the fuel pump on the car is about to die in the back side, and as such need to source a second hand unit from somewhere close! Please PM if you have one you can sell...

can you check that # please? no luck in dialing it the other day

damn, been meaning to pop in and I was on the Gold Coast but missed your message

Thanks will give him a holler next week if I don't get any further with mine

if you dig around my posts you can see some of it, but i have a problem where I can either have a smooth idle, or 4WD. Something to do with supply voltages, or earthing to the ECU on the sensor lines, and also got different voltages when earthing my sensors on engine and chassis, have tried cleaning up engine earth, and have tried earthing ECU direct

Looking for an auto electircian, Toowoomba - > Brisbane area to help with a fault in my ECU,4WD and sensor area of my car, for this reason I need someone that has worked on GTRs before, and not just replacing bulbs or fitting foglights. If anyone can recommend someone, or wants to have a go themselves and wants more details please post here...

Reset timing, and fixed earth at loom, I'm very happy again, thanks for all the pointers guys...

Thanks guys, will get into it tomorrow morning, just went to check timing and discovered the earth at the loom side of the ignitor module was broken off, might explain a little...

Weird question here; could the earthing of the ECU have changed the CAS sensor return to the ECCS and therefore change my timing?

No I haven't the only ground touched so far was pin 60 and the engine-chassis earth where it meets the chassis, should I run a wire from pin 30 Sensor Ground (TPS, Engine temp) back to the ATTESSA computer and joining those two?

No idea where that strap went. Thanks for all the help guys 4WD is running great now, run a wire from pin 60 to the wall and she's a treat. I appear to have some voltage issues still in regards to the TPS though, the 4WD is fine, but I'm having surging idle and poor accel below 3000 rpm. Is it safe to earth the singal ground wire on the ECU to the chassis also?

Thanks, will give that a go tomorrow, I re-earthed the chassis to engine tonight, better in every way, except the same 4WD fault so will try the extra earth technique tomorrow night. I'm assuming you don't need a think wire, same guage as the ECU wiring should be fine?

Hi guys, Does anyone have an idea what is an acceptable amount of resistance for the ECU (ECCS) earth to chassis, or where the ECU actually earths to the chassis via. Thanks

Thanks for the replies guys, I will re-earth the whole car tonight, might look at running another earth cable from block to chassis as well, weird I had put 100km on the engine before this started to happen, would have though it would have shown up form when the fresh engine went in right away.

Sorry to thread-jack. I'm having issues with my ATTESSA and TPS and reading through this I think I might be going down the right track now... I am having my 4WD light com on and throw a TPS error code at me intermittently from 1-10 minutes of driving, usually at lower RPM. I have just swapped battery and alternator, the Power FC is reading 13.4V at idle now, and a tad under 12 with IGN OFF. My battery has been reloacted to the boot, using some heavy duty wiring. I checked the voltages and resistance today on my TPS; - I'm getting a good 5V constantly from +5V TPS Ground - Signal -> TPS Ground or Engine (Plenum) it shows 0.5 Volts, as shows on the Power FC controller, and as does when tested from the ECCS module between 30 & 38pins. - When I checked the same Signal wire to Car Chassis it is showing a higher 0.7V. - I measured resistance from chassis to block and it reads 0 Ohms then Started the engine. - The TPS now reads 0.53Volts Singal to TPS Ground, 0.66Volts Signal to Engine, 0.5mV or -0.5mV Signal to Chassis Would I probably be correct in assuming I have an earth problem, especially as the TPS appears to test fine in almost every way the manual lists. ADDITIONALLY Running ATTESSA Fault Code 21 Tests showed me I should recieve approx 0.375V between 50 and 38, but I am getting 0.5V between the two, so the voltage is NOT stepping down to the ATTESSA output. Thanks in advance to anyone who can help me with this, I'm going nuts

4.3Volts or something similar, Just tested it again with my stock ECU, ran like a sick dog, and failed the 4WD, I'll just order a new TPS next pay. Thanks for the help

Reset TPS tonight; 0.5Volts IGN ON and Engine Stopped, 0.55Volts IGN ON and Engine Running, Faulted in 1-2 mins driving After 10-15 mins drive I tried to reset it as the voltage was now reading; 0.47 Engine Stopped, 0.53 Engine Running Reset to 0.50 Engine Stopped, 0.55 Running faulted in 1-2 mins driving, then without any changes I drove home, this was the best I had all night, the 4WD still faulted, but took 10 minutes of driving to do so, and occured when stationary. Most of the time the car is either, stationary, coasting down a hill, or low RPM turning tightly when the TPS error seams to kick in on the 4WD. Getting a constand 13.5-13.7Volts on the PowerFC display, and my battery is now in the boot, but with that sort of ECCU voltage it shouldn't be haing any effect.

Thanks for the reply. I tried it again at .5volts and I got it running got till the car got warm. I'm having trouble understanding the workshop manual, but I believe I need to set it .5 or just a tad over e.g. .51 when IGN on but ENGINE OFF. My tsp flickers a little by 0.01 when running. And this needs to all be set at normal operating temperature, does this sound right.

My TPS gives a 0.40V signal to my PowerFC when IGN ON engine stopped, but when the engine is started the voltage increases approx 0.1V to 0.50V. I'm having problems with the ATTESSA and it's fault code is 21, TPS. So I keep resetting the TPS, I can sometimes get 5-10 kms out of the car, but if i back off the gas and roll up to lights it will then fault again. I checked a friends car yesterday and his keeps the same voltage if the car is running or not. Should I look at replacing TPS, or try a different ECU?

Great stuff mate. Awesome stories, keep them coming, it takes a brave person to step as far outside of their comfort zone as you have.

Hi guys, Trying to install my Nismo Shift Kit back into the car as it should be driving on the road again in a couple days, I have hit a wall, I am missing the sleeve that sits under the shifter and on top of the metal gasket in the transfer case. I have attached a picture of the kit, the bit I am missing is the polished looking sleeve If anyone has this kit could they do me a massive favour and measure the sleeve, height and if possible other dimensions, I have a bit of plastic that had been cut to fit and dropped in place, but it is too short and causing the transfer case not to seal correctly (it came like that not my dodgey handiwork!) Thanks in advance.

Take the Cam Angle Sensor off, leave it connected to the loom and slowly turn the gear around, listen for the injectors clicking away happily, or not so happily. If they are opening and closing, take a plug out, and leave in in it's coil pack, rest it on the block so you can see the gap, and turn the lights out and slowly turn the CAS gear over, you should see a spark, be careful tho, that can give you a belt if you are holding onto it while rotating the CAS. Both of the above require the igniton on, tell us how you go.