Keeper

had a few people PM me also, seams no one comes out happy

note the dump pipe on that baby.,..

bloody awesome road, only been on it once, got a good run most the way, highly impressed I love my 600, got her for $6k with 6000kms on the clock as an ex race bike, threw some pics on, one from before Saying that, the new CBR1000s are BLOODY INSANE, soo fast, hangin for a blat on a ZX10

thanks for the feedback guys

the bottom one runs to your wastegate actuator, without this you car will probably boost until the fuel defender cuts in the top one should run to your inlet piping after the air filter, i blocked mine off (top one) but have since unblocked it and it makes no difference

anyone? anyone's mates? anyone's family? anyone's pet doberman

Hi, I'm looking at buying a kit similar to the JUN one for my S2 R33 coupe, has anyone here ordered a bodykit off carmate.com before? and if so what was your experience? they seam to have the best prices, but saying that I need it posted to NZ so it might not work out so hot after all thanks dave

A larger exhaust (more flow) allows the turbo to spin up easier, and as such faster, here in NZ we rip the insides of our cat convertors out also to create less back pressure...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...9entry1632569 dyno sheet here

My dyno result Apexi cyclone filter Gutted Cat 3" Blitz Mandrel from cat back Solenoid switch on for 1 run, off for the other I was told the big dip in torque is the cam change over? But saying that I used to have terrible missfire problems before I regapped to 0.76mm, maybe I just hid this problem??? Any ideas on what turbo I want to get 460+HP at the flywheel (my cal should be at least 400 HP at the wheels), going to buy that and put it on (my mate needs my turbo ASAP for his RB20DET) then hit the fuel & ECU early next year

I just dyno'd my car with this mod, except when I put this mod on I put a on/off switch for it, the difference between ECU relating boost at low revs, and earthing the wire seamed to be nothing at all! Saying that I swear it made a difference when I did this before I dyno'd it! I'm at a small loss now, if you put a couple of washers under the wastegate actuator mount points it increases boost BTW, not the best tho, my fuiel cut defended cut in and shut the car down for %60 of the rev range, when it was boosting hard tho, it was f**kING HARD

talk about post-necromancy, did you solve this? is it easy to **** an ECU?

how do you pin point which coil? how do you know if it is a coil? i think this might be my prob too

Hi I have what I can only assume is a air/fuel problem; I have a 1996 GTS25t M-Spec -> one of the series II ones I have been told When under moderate-heavy acceleration my car seams to shut the fuel off, making it surge and backfire. It seams to do it cold or warm, although a little more when warm, gets more and less noticable, the engine diagnostics mode picks up nothing! I have tried cleaning my AFM, replaced my fuel filter, plugged in a CONSULT cable and got some data off it which I have absolutally no idea what to read, the AFM base doesn't really change from 90-110 but I think this might be normal, the CO2 sensor jumps from 20-100 very regularly even idling, but the car has no problems idling at all, just under acceleration, noticably under boost. The problem seams un, or barely noticable at all when you slowly build up the speed on the car, and in every other aspect seams to run fine. First time I noticed the problem was when I took out my Pod+AFM+ECU+Carbon Canister to install some cabling for a bumper mounted camera I have, but I have since put them all back in, I did once try and start that car without the ecu to move it before I realised why it wouldn't turn over... Please help with any ideas, I'm so lost.... :cuss: