Keeper

thanks, im very very close to buying a Rs4 and GTR box straight after, might look at getting the parts shipped over from NZ in the likes of the console etc, if you pay someone there to buy the parts, then they delcare them as motor spares for personal use and mark them around $150 a shipment the duty and taxes should be negligable when doy ou think you will have photos of the console in the car?

Excellent write up, does it pick up a little faster? when living in new zealand i took out my cat and smashed the guts out then bolted it back in, it may not have made it spool up faster, but it was louder and it backfired a whole lot more... oh the joys of the RB motors

deluxe. is the only modification required to the console is the relocation of the ATESSA unit?

sorry to bother is the manual console from a S1 stagea manual? or is the console from a different series?

bracket or console? the whole manual gearbox in a series one is starting to look more and more expensive every time i look at it

I'm currently looking for a R32 without the motor or gearbox, i basically want a shell with all the interior etc so i can drop a motor of my choice and gearbox into it, how easy is it to come by one like this (I tempted to look at sedans also, would like a turbo for the 5stud wheel setup) know anyone who has one, and wreckers, or have any idea of the cost of one? I'm currently living in QLD on the gold Coast

i think its the one that featured in this years Performace Imprort yearbook

for the record... the chances of you starting a fire through cell phone use on a forecourt is about the same as a jumbo jet crashing into your house i think most of it has too do with people humping doors etc in the countries where the nozzles dont need to be held on to pump (stay on until full)

note is doesn't recommend using the %10 blend in that quote, this fuel is %5 blend, i wonder if nissan australia have a say on this??? 98 octane is available in NZ, but not refined here, shell and all the fuel majors offer AGO 91 95 98 (BP & Mobil only) there is talk of the octance going up, or Shell & Caltex offering a high octance fuel option as well, as the entire high performance market has almost completely turned to BP/Mobil from what I know

finalgear.com

haha funny, I work in the fuel industry and we get reports all the time of people starting fires through stupid reasons, answering cell calls, jump starting cars on forecourts, take there car that is on fire to the service station for assistance, static build up etc. etc. the chances of a mobile starting a fire are slim, but the guy who was trying to pull his mobile out of his jeans and his croutch got 3rd degree burns probably aint laughing...

had a few people PM me also, seams no one comes out happy

note the dump pipe on that baby.,..

bloody awesome road, only been on it once, got a good run most the way, highly impressed I love my 600, got her for $6k with 6000kms on the clock as an ex race bike, threw some pics on, one from before Saying that, the new CBR1000s are BLOODY INSANE, soo fast, hangin for a blat on a ZX10

thanks for the feedback guys

the bottom one runs to your wastegate actuator, without this you car will probably boost until the fuel defender cuts in the top one should run to your inlet piping after the air filter, i blocked mine off (top one) but have since unblocked it and it makes no difference

anyone? anyone's mates? anyone's family? anyone's pet doberman

Hi, I'm looking at buying a kit similar to the JUN one for my S2 R33 coupe, has anyone here ordered a bodykit off carmate.com before? and if so what was your experience? they seam to have the best prices, but saying that I need it posted to NZ so it might not work out so hot after all thanks dave

A larger exhaust (more flow) allows the turbo to spin up easier, and as such faster, here in NZ we rip the insides of our cat convertors out also to create less back pressure...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...9entry1632569 dyno sheet here

My dyno result Apexi cyclone filter Gutted Cat 3" Blitz Mandrel from cat back Solenoid switch on for 1 run, off for the other I was told the big dip in torque is the cam change over? But saying that I used to have terrible missfire problems before I regapped to 0.76mm, maybe I just hid this problem??? Any ideas on what turbo I want to get 460+HP at the flywheel (my cal should be at least 400 HP at the wheels), going to buy that and put it on (my mate needs my turbo ASAP for his RB20DET) then hit the fuel & ECU early next year

I just dyno'd my car with this mod, except when I put this mod on I put a on/off switch for it, the difference between ECU relating boost at low revs, and earthing the wire seamed to be nothing at all! Saying that I swear it made a difference when I did this before I dyno'd it! I'm at a small loss now, if you put a couple of washers under the wastegate actuator mount points it increases boost BTW, not the best tho, my fuiel cut defended cut in and shut the car down for %60 of the rev range, when it was boosting hard tho, it was f**kING HARD

talk about post-necromancy, did you solve this? is it easy to **** an ECU?

how do you pin point which coil? how do you know if it is a coil? i think this might be my prob too

Hi I have what I can only assume is a air/fuel problem; I have a 1996 GTS25t M-Spec -> one of the series II ones I have been told When under moderate-heavy acceleration my car seams to shut the fuel off, making it surge and backfire. It seams to do it cold or warm, although a little more when warm, gets more and less noticable, the engine diagnostics mode picks up nothing! I have tried cleaning my AFM, replaced my fuel filter, plugged in a CONSULT cable and got some data off it which I have absolutally no idea what to read, the AFM base doesn't really change from 90-110 but I think this might be normal, the CO2 sensor jumps from 20-100 very regularly even idling, but the car has no problems idling at all, just under acceleration, noticably under boost. The problem seams un, or barely noticable at all when you slowly build up the speed on the car, and in every other aspect seams to run fine. First time I noticed the problem was when I took out my Pod+AFM+ECU+Carbon Canister to install some cabling for a bumper mounted camera I have, but I have since put them all back in, I did once try and start that car without the ecu to move it before I realised why it wouldn't turn over... Please help with any ideas, I'm so lost.... :cuss: