shanef

holy fark thats huge power...rofl lol

Pikes Peak ftw!!!!!!!!!!!11

that's abo for..noel i would, if i wasnt at work brother

ur a dick, u just called urself an elephant

u better be careful, im not sure them rocker arm's would like that too much :sorcerer:

sick marki. :workship:

he's a cashed up fartard too!

that's code for hiring gay video's right?

dont make me bash u with my keyboard :laughing-smiley-014: dont forget ur latte!

a motor is only a tiny bit of the project. now compare the 2

u own an rb20, ur opinion doesnt count

i wonder how many have used the dirty man's weight reduction technique...

im guessing it'll run low 11's

145mph+ is parachute time

and a Hatchi is a japanese shopping trolley

noel, put this in a book, caus we can sell this shit its that good! :sorcerer:

i dont think so, but im sure old, fragile bones start decintergrating at around that speed? im also under the impression that falsified teeth start falling out/breaking up at around that speed too

i'd forget about it if it was purely a track car. But im pretty sure i need the spare in there for street rego etc. It started out as just a 26/30 conversion, then things just got way out of hand, as these builds tend to do 1. The convertor i use says 20gal = 75.7ltr or 20gal (UK) = 90.9ltr *shrugs* 2. I had a good look under the rear of the car sussing out if i could just cut it out for the dry sump tank, but theres either the exhaust in the road or the std fuel tank

hmm yeh, just gotta find an engineer now lol cheers for the pics, helpful indeed i looked at just dropping the boot down in the left corner for the tank, but thats where the exhaust runs and it'll have to come too far down and it'll foul on the exhaust (unlike some i can't run side exit pipes, being a street car ). Also i only need 3" if i put the dry sump tank in the wheel well, but then dropping that down will foul on the std fuel tank, as it runs right across the back under the well. Ur slack, i've known that ever since day 1 Dan's gonna have a squizz when he comes and does the clearances

i looked in my 32 gtr service manual and it said the stock gauge reads 6 ohms empty and 90 ohms full. so i'll just have to modify the circuit so it reads it correctly. (just going through electronics now and im starting to remember it all from high school ) what i was planning was to cut out the wheel well, and drop the boot floor down the required distance, and locate the cell inside the car, in the newly fabd well. Then mount the spare wheel under the car for them rego checks/defect checks.

ur using a GT42 and u lot r only expecting 650hp on race fuel? that thing should make very close to 900hp with the works EDIT- With a turbo that big, ur power band is gonna be up in the high rev range, so a 272 or possibly even a 280 would be the go (whats it revving to?) with about 10.5mm lift

only the leet have the name shane. welcome to the club sonny jim

come on guys. surely some of you have some suggestions!

oh and circuit racing, if i wanted to go round and round and get dizy, i'd go out the back and swing on the close line