bfi.inc

Average power?? thats for dyno comps.In real world,once u pass max power mark,you are going slower.Revving uselessly for no gain

no because reaction time.light triggers so by the time you shift,you are at about max Power.

Obviously then Various European car manufacturers have no idea then because they use 19". eg BMW M3,M5,AMG Mercedes,Jaguar etc. Gee even Ford are using optional 19"s on tornado and typhoon

I mean traction ,handling,and braking nproblems with 2 and 4 wheel drive cars.

Revs dont always = more power.A person of moderate intelligence would do a power run on a dyno,see where max.power is made and where it starts to fall away.Then purchase a shift light and then set it to trigger 3-400 rpm below peak power.Generally the majority are suprised to see where peak power is made.Usually well before this 8500 crap.

wouldnt organising a sealed air box with a pick up that drew clean fresh air be more beneficial than this "name brand" is SIKER than that one.I can only speak for what i have seen but we only ever ran K&N on the Willall car and now i do after a certain Jap.foam filters cost me a set of Turbos on mine.

If i had a 11 inch prong,id be in the porn industry.

Does it really matter unless you are a dyno queen?. Dyno shymo.When i last looked,a dyno is a tuning tool.If you go to the same dyno with the same(honest) tuner and correction factors are correct and there is no "X" factor input,who cares.Provided it reads consistently,it is a excellent tuning tool.However a whole industry has been built around the "my dad is tougher than yours and my shitter made more Kilowatts than yours".Hey book it in,lean it out,bang some timing in and look at the top end power increase (and overlay it over original power run graph).and they cant get the cash out fast enough.

no i was referring to original drag motor

all these recomendations.isnt it your car,its performance, usage,power and modifacations that will help your decision.What works on say a standard gts will kill you on a big HP gtr.

well you have never had a full twin from front pipes(TWIN 3") have you.I confess i did not have X-over pipe you recommed just two rear individual mufflers.Had the RB scream but with a gurgle.It could be heard 3KM away on a warm summers night Just north of Adelaide .keep that in mind "IF YOU HAD A GTR".SYstem for sale(800km old) as now have 90mm titanium.

ok.well do you have a twin system with or without a x-over pipe?

you dont know so why speculate. I do but cant be bothered.Its easier to let the crap,regular slander,uninformed and uneducated opinions blather away(some notable exceptions).

originally you said a twin system would sound crap.now you are getting one but it will only sound good with a balance pipe.I guess then type/placement/diameter/brand of mufflers/resonators/cats etc is irrelevant : "they will all all sound crap"

sits about an inch higher in engine bay.Not a drama.As for a road car application?Keirs with the TD05s was frightening.Keirs words were after first drive along the lines of "it is like comparing a big block to a mini".(ie original bore motor.) Even with the tdo5s,his initial burnout at the drags consisted of sitting stationary,selecting fourth,and sliding the clutch.

Thankyou.In my comments,i restrained from openly criticising a workshop or actually naming them in regard to reworking an OS motor.I felt it important though to correct the "WILLALL " reworked the OS motor issue.A good example of why threads such as EG: "is this workshop any good" should be deleted immediately.Comments such as "i heard willalls had to rebuild OS motor" which are ill informed can have repurcussions on the named workshop.For instance,should i read that comment in ignorance,i may conclude that Peter Hall believes he knows more than OS GIKEN.Fortunately,i know that not to be true of Peterand Keir.In fact,when Keir levered open the crate,Peter ,keir and I were stunned at the metallurgy and workmanship of the OS motor.Peter Hall is a fastidious and talented engine builder who openly acknowledges the Japanese craftsman.

Do you have one??

WRONG.First OS 3l they purchased did over 100 passes (Nearly all in the 9"s)and was pulled down just for maintenance.Was as new but while it was apart just put rings and bearings in it(Didnt even need them).When John Munro bought his,he decided to let his engine builder from his V8 days pull it down and rebuild it.Apparently chev sprint car engines are just like RB26"s.

Cannot comment on 2.7/2.8 litre RB26"s, but having experienced the OS 3L,the extra cubes is awesome.The 2.7/2.8 is seemingly preferred by the Japanese drag racers due to revability.However sly33 is seemingly looking to build a street car. So go for torque.HP wins dyno comps,torque just wins. Small cams,small turbos and extra capacity if you have the budget.Oh and one more thing,Its all good to buy the HKS kit but remember,it will only be as good as the engine assembler.In that respect the OS 3L short motor is a winner.(if you have ever seen inside one it is a work of art).And of course one would want to choose their TUNER carefully which ever path they choose.

exactly.RB30 was a budget build exclusively for Aust. and never available anywhere else

How do you know it will sound crap??

Any reputable engine builder would not allow any short cuts without the customer specifically requesting(*and outlined on the job card) those compromises.A fully recon.motor is that.(including new radiator for warranty etc) .Anything else is a patch up.In fact,certain engine builders(eg mine) wont allow a motor build unless it is tuned in house. And justifiably so as it benefits builder and purchaser which should be self explainatory.

I have an OS cross mission.And i drove the first gtr with a ppg gear set. Simple answer: NO ONE HAS A CRYSTAL BALL TO PREDICT YOUR DRIVING STYLE AND WHAT PURPOSE YOU USE THE CAR FOR.