beaugus

SOLD! - Pending Payment (22nd July, 2011)

Also just another edit - Price has been reduced by $1000 on both originally listed prices. So looking for $18,500 As Is with the original parts given to the new owner OR $15,500 for the car stock standard.

Thread Bump: Added New Photos Taken Today (19th July 2011)

I'm selling due to looking to downsize vehicles and currently have another vehicle to use on a daily basis. This M35 is looking for a family wanting the best all-round sports performance wagon without drawing attention to yourself. Our family has only used this vehicle as a weekend car and have only traveled just on 5000km since purchase. It features Nissan's VQ25DET turbo V6 engine with 206kw of power delivered through Nissan's legendary ATESSA 4WD for maximum performance and safety. Low 68,000km, 5 Speed tip-tronic automatic transmission makes driving this sports wagon a breeze, it shifts smoothly and effortlessly gets up and goes when you need it to, A/C climate control is icy cold in summer and only takes a few moments to warm the entire family up for winter. Factory Xenon HID automatic lighting, split folding boot/hatch with automatic closing, factory fitted privacy glass on the rear windows to keep prying eyes from seeing valuables in the back. Imported last year with 64,000km on the clock, all major service parts and fluids have been done including engine oil and filter (Castrol Edge 5w30 + genuine Nissan Filter), Genuine automatic trans fluid flushed and replaced, NGK spark plugs, genuine rocker cover gaskets, A/C Filter, Brake fluid, Brand new brake pads + freshly machined rotors, brand new performance Bridgestone Poteza Adrenaline tyres fitted (less than 5000km old) + lots more too many things to mention. - Rest assured this M35 has been treated to the absolute best as we truely love all our family's cars. Extra features include: Nissan Aero Body Kit Options Nissan Performance Muffler Option (Factory Fitted Variable open/close muffler with in-cabin control switch) K&N Performance Panel Filter Freeway Dolphin Inlet Suction Pipe (rare part) Blitz CS Front-Mount Intercooler (no permanant modifications) Blitz iColour Boost Controller Kit (running completly standard boost program or economy mode) Blitz Fully Automatic Turbo Timer Pioneer AVH 7 Inch touchscreen in-dash DVD player + Current Australian GPS Mapping, Guided Reverse Camera, Ipod Control Pioneer 4-Channel 600w Amp & Mono 600w Amp Pioneer Reference Front and Rear Speakers Pioneer Slim-Line Boxed Subwoofer (easily removable) All sound system components professionally installed using quality Stinger RCA's etc. I also have a spare VQ25DET turbocharger that I purchased last year but never got around to getting rebuilt/high-flowed which will also be given to the seller if he/she wants it with the sale of the vehicle. The only outstanding issue with this vehicle is there are touched-up stone chips on the bonnet from the previous owner in Japan, I have been quoted $250 to professionally fix these chips but they are only minor. Vehicle price AS LISTED - $19,000 *Note, all original parts will be provided to new owner with sale of vehicle* OR $16,500 with original parts fitted / returned to factory standard Remaining 6 months Victorian registration comes with the vehicle, road worthy supplied on request. Price is negotiable, please no stupid low-ball offers - this has been a thoroughly loved and respected vehicle and would suit a family looking for a high quality performance wagon with plenty of everything! Japanese performance and reliabilty for a reasonable price! Vehicle is advertised elsewhere. If anybody has any questions regarding the vehicle please feel free to contact me via this thread or via contact details below: Contact: Beau Mobile: 0458 596688 eMail: [email protected] Vehicle is located in Albury/Wodonga area, roughly 3.5 hours drive from Melbourne and 7 hours from Sydney.

Is the intercooler still available? I've sent a PM.

For Sale: HKS EVC-S Boost Controller Condition: Used, Good Condition Hey everyone, I'm looking to sell my HKS EVC-S Boost Controller as its a bit beyond my needs and would better suit something with modifications. The car it was originally insatlled on has recently been sold and the new owner only cares for factory setup. Obviously it is in working order The unit has been factory reset and ready to go again. New lengths of hoses/piping will be supplied. It's advertised on eBay currently: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi...T#ht_500wt_1182 I'm basically after whatever I can get for it for anyone that is interested please either PM me with an offer or if you're into using eBay feel free to place a bid for it. Thanks for your interest.

Sorry to hear about the bad experience, certainly doesn't help the place you entrusted your car with gain praise but at any rate its a lesson well learnt I suppose. My two cents worth with your cooling issue, theres a decent product by redline called "water wetter" its an inhibitor for your radiator but it's done wonders for our Stagea with the hot day's were getting locally here (40+ degree days and around town stop start) We added it to fresh coolant and we've noticed an immediate difference with how stable the temps are now especially as we've had our stagea loaded up moving house and still enjoying a bit of boost and all. It may or may not be a wonder cure for long term problems but where as we had the engine get past half way in the past it now never hits half way even if we give it the beans. About your boost, I've been stuffing around with a boost controller lately and been doing all sorts of trials and tests etc, if your stagea is making 5PSI or around that I can say the wastegate spring pressure is defiantly around the 5-5.5PSI mark because when I had the new boost solenoid wired up but turned off it ran around at this tension. After pulling my hair out with the boost unit I did a bit more investigation on the factory two-stage unit on the car, pretty smart but simple little thing. The bottom line is, as per factory conditions any load under 4500rpm its normal to see 5-5.5PSI then the ECU creates an open circut after this RPM to achieve the dual stage 7PSI throughout the remaining rev range. It might be worth checking the vacume lines coming from your solenoid (particularly the top line that "T's" into the wastegate line) there may be a split or crack in this line that isn't enabling the boost to rise that OR check the electrics going to the solenoid if the harness isn't in or even if theres bad contact on the pins it can easily cause the unit not to function correctly. The hard to start issue, that one I can't help with but might be worth having the battery checked out perhaps? I had an old merc benz that was 3 years old and had a similar sounding issue as your starting issue, turned out the plates in the battery gave up pretty much, no amount of charging helped either and I invested in a c-tec charger to recondition the thing at first to no avail it simply gave out. Hope you get the right thing done by your chosen maintenance joint because I personally hate being taken for a ride myself ..... which is why I finally invested in kitting out my shed like a workshop, hoist, tools and all now I've only got myself to haggle with.

Hey man thanks for the input yeah I'm pretty much at that point where I don't really want to invest the next month in trial and error for something I should be able to just dial in and expect to work. The so called "basic" functions really have a trivial in-depth hidden agenda behind them all so it seems. Anyway thanks again.

Hey everyone I'm sorry for hassling anyone who reads this with could possibly come down to my stupidity but I really am at the mercy of the forum for help with this one. I've bought a HKS EVC-S boost controller for my series 2 Stagea and I basically would like to run two simple settings and I can't believe I'm having THIS much trouble achieving what I thought was an easy increase. Anyway basically I've got the unit installed fine (initially I didn't because when I put the foot down I soon realised I had the wrong vacuum line connected to the solenoid and discovered a very fast unlimited boost effect which thankfully didn't cause any damage) Anyway the unit's in, and I've reset the default values for the sake of having default values and I basically want to run two programs "A" stock boost and "B" something around 9-10PSI thats my target. And so right from the start I'm stumped because I have no idea how this thing measures my wastegate spring tension (even though the manual describes letting the unit learn this value there is no instructions in the manual that describe how its done UNLIKE previous EVC's before it where they had a dedicated mode for this) So my first question is, considering I leave the unit in its most default settings and for the first time I start my car over what should I be expecting this thing to do? If the unit is "off" it apparently works off my spring tension which it does, but if the unit is "off" is this actually learning anything or do I need the fire up the unit and be in the default "A" setting and go through the process of putting my foot down so it figures its self out. Secondly, the unit has these modes "Offset" "Response" and "Over Boost" - offset and response are both in a % value which I understand when this increases so does the boost pressure, but I have no idea what the overboost function (or purpose for that matter) is because this value is in PSI/KPA depending on the setting. If I set this value to say 7PSI the turbo spools up very quickly and then drops off as soon as it reaches the target PSI. The manual describes "once the boost exceeds the value the controller returns to normal mode" and no where in the manual it describes what "normal mode" is besides the fact the turbo spools up to whatever I set this at and then drop immediately to around 5.5-6PSI. Now at this point I should mention, If I set the "Over Boost" to any figure over 5.5 (which I'm guessing is the spring tension) the HKS solenoid doesn't make a sound much like the stock unit did BUT as soon as I introduce any amount of "Offset" it starts clicking like mad. I've read around a few places and found people seem to have this happen to them with other EBC's from greddy or blitz so I can only assume it must be its way of working. Lastly, after stuffing around with the controller and trying to figure this thing out, after a fair bit of testing on the road I get an "02 Sensor" error throw up the check engine light on the dash, at this time this only happens when the boost controller unit is ON and controls any amount of boost and it only seems to happen quite late in the RPM and after a few trial runs in the car. This doesn't happen when the controller is OFF and running stock spring tension boost. So obviously I've got something going wrong and its got to be something I'm messing with. Anyway I'm sorry for the long post but I've tried to be as descriptive as possible because I'm at the point of ripping the unit out completely because I thought it was going to be a simple to use unit. Thanks in advanced for any help given.

He's referring to the part number of the NGK spark plugs, the part number by the NGK book is: PFR6G-11. Meaning the plug gap is 1.1 and the point I believe he's trying to get across is there is an alternate plug set available which the gap is 0.8 (more suitable for higher than stock boost and/or high speed use) Theres plenty of myths and tons of people will tell you pros and cons for as much as a simple spark plug, personally the choice is simple stick with a good brand, most japanese cars are either NGK or Denso spark plugs, copper plugs are cheaper and most people say they provide a better spark than the precious metal alternatives but at the end of the day if 10,000KM plug changing isn't your thing and a budget allows for it, theres nothing wrong with the iridium option to get you a longer interval.

Not sure how rare or common it was to find in Japan at least but our Stagea came imported with a Nismo muffler. The part number on the muffler actually corespondents with the part number found in the Nismo optional parts catalog we have for the Stagea so it wasn't just a universal fit either. We had it taken off and replace with a Xforce Varex system but we held onto it because its nice to have something Nismo in the garage

The other half and I serviced our Stagea a couple of weeks ago (did an 80k service) and we pretty much covered everything you've mentioned here + our all our gear oils. Wasn't cheap but like I convinced the other half its better knowing the stuff is changed / replaced when we do it then we have a good idea of when it really needs doing next. Actually have to make mention that cleaning the intercooler out had some surprising effect on our Stagea, we pretty much took all the piping + parts out and gave everything a total clean over including the air flow meter anyway, we always had a bit of smoke out of the exhaust at start up and even during the warming up period as we drove out and since cleaning the induction side out we've never had any smoke again so big plus for that. We debated about doing our O2 sensor as well but since we were pretty pedantic about what we replace in the car we really wanted to only consider genuine (for gaskets and what not) and oil's we pretty much used everything from Motul and Redline stuff so by the time we added up how much everything had cost us to date well, adding an extra $190 for an 02 sensor pushed our service budget to almost $600 in parts alone. Thank god we've got our own workshop hoist and service tools because we saved a bit doing the work ourselves.

Thanks for the suggestion never thought it might be something as simple as dampening the vibration of the unit itself so fingers crossed that might be the cause. I'll hunt down a rubber washer today and report back if the clicking gets softer.

Hey again everyone, I was hoping somebody might be able to help me sort out an issue that I'm experiencing after fitting a new HKS EVC-S boost controller on my S2 Stagea RS4S. When the controller is off the boost comes on at wastegate spring pressure (which on my Stagea is around 5-6PSI) so without the dual-stage in place it sits on the lowest possible pressure, thats not the issue however when I turn the boost controller unit on and dial in enough boost pressure for around 9PSI I can hear something (which I presume) like the HKS solenoid clicking quite a fair bit. There is no clicking when the unit is off however. The boost is stable all the way to 9PSI with no overshooting or surging and no hesitation from the engine. So its defiantly something along the lines of the boost controller unit when its on. Could anybody throw some suggestions at why this might be the case? Have I got the unit set up incorrectly in someway? After searching google a bit I've found theres plenty of info on clicking solenoids but they seem isolated to Greddy and Blitz units, and even then its not conclusive. I was maybe thinking the boost setting I've got may be asking to much from the solenoid too early? Full boost at 9PSI comes on around 3500RPM.

Hey everyone, I've ready through plenty info on the forum with upgrading the turbo on my Stagea but I'm .. overwhelmed with the amount of info to say the least. It's almost like an art in knowing the goods on the right gear and thats why I'm at the mercy of the forum now Basically its like this, I've got a 45v3 stocker at the moment on my Series 2 RS4S Stagea and for the most part its doing its job but I would eventually like to go down the path of having it changed out for something a bit more punchy. With all the right supporting mods I'm not looking at breaking the speed of sound or the bank either but I'd really like to know what is the going to be the right path to take or what turbo charger options are suitable to my criteria: 1) Needs to be as simple as old turbo off, new turbo on same spot (I don't really care about factory lines as such because I'm expecting to change these anyway with fresh new parts) 2) Needs to run a happy 12-14PSI max (like i said I'm not trying to spin the earth backwards as I go forward but this is my target PSI) 3) Even though this is sure to spark controversy amongst us, I'd like to hear experiences good or bad with those who went ebay cheap vs who ponied up the dough for branded units And for those who can resist telling me that google is my friend or SAU search function is as well, a dancing banana is your treat I suppose the last question I'll throw out there whilst I'm at it, I've seen and heard much about GCG's hi-flowing work on stock units but at costing in the areas of $2k Its hard not to consider brand new fresh Garret units as well (especially when considering what I'm looking for out of a turbo anyway) Thanks guys.

This would be great if it all goes through, I'd be interested in getting hold of any of the stuff mentioned here. As a thought, what about hosting the file with say rapidshare or even a torrent?

Yeah i dont know about that, I sold my set of spare R33 floor mats on eBay individually like 2 years ago after I sold my car had no problems making a few extra quid back then because people were actually after the same thing I am, good condition single bits. I myself don't know the value of the entire set, but I'd have no problem paying for something I'm actually after if price isn't ridiculous. Simple.

Are you looking to sell the whole lot or are you willing to separate any of the mats? And for which Stagea did you have them in? WGNC34 or M35 Auto/Man? Might be interested in the passenger side if its a WGNC34 as the logo on mine is almost completely gone.

I'm fitting a JJR split dump pipe with custom piping back to cat section next monday, I'm only sticking with 2.5" all the way through as its the other half's daily drive and we're not looking for performance gains but rather just replacing the old and rusted sections of the exhaust system with new pipe and mufflers. We ended up having a Varex muffler fitted up at the end and it does a great job on its own. I'm sure you wont have any issues with having a dump pipe fitted up and having a custom made section back as clearance can be factored in when the exhaust shop fabricates it.

Hey guys, I've taken a very short video that hopefully demonstrates the kind of whining noise being discussed here. Our RS4 "S" has a similar whine noise ever since day one when we picked it up, I was once concerned with the sound as well until I discovered this thread. Further comments are appreciated. Cheers guys. YouTube Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q4vH7_lUw9A (video might take a few moments to appear on youtube's server as its only new tonight)

The NSK-7172 series suits all GTR variances from 1993-on, so late model R32 GTR's all the way through to 2002 R34's that feature a pull-type clutch. Coincidentally it also appears to fit Series 2 Stageas as well. The NSK-7333 suits 98 model-on R34 GT-T's as well as Series 2 Stagea's so it appear that Nissan have made the fitment sizes identical between the GT-T and GTR of the same period probably for convenience. I would assume the only real difference (if any) is perhaps the torque capacity of the GTR (NSK-7172) clutch may be higher but this I can't confirm.

Update I've got the correct part numbers for the corresponding clutch kits to suite a Series 2 Stagea from 98-on they are as follows for everybody's future reference. Clutch Size: 250x25.5x24 Pull Type Clutch to suit RB25DET NEO OEM Replacement: NSK-7333 / $941.20 Heavy Duty Kit: NSK-7333HD / $1,079.95 Heavy Duty Button Kit: NSK-7333HDB / $1,186.95 Heavy Duty Cushion Button Kit: NSK-7333HDCB $1,450.70

Hey all, had another question which I need help finding the right advise for. I'm needing to replace the clutch in my Series 2 Stagea RS4S shortly and was hoping somebody on here could help me source the right part number for a replacement clutch kit by exedy. Till this point I was under the impression the Stagea has an R33 GTR gearbox fitted up as factory standard therefor I should be looking at clutch components that suit the 33 but after searching through a few posts already I haven't been able to find a definitive answer or part number. If anyone has had their clutch replaced using exedy parts I would greatly appreciate knowing what they had fitted and their thoughts on the clutch after having it installed. Thanks in advanced.

Thanks for the info guys, got all the info and specifications that I needed

Hey everyone, I was hoping somebody would be able to lend their wisdom as I'm having a bit of trouble finding solid information on what I'll be needing + what people recommend for driveline oils and lubes for a S2 Stagea RS4S. The car is a daily drive with around 80,000km on it currently and I'm looking to do pretty much all the driveline oils first thing in the new year but I'm just stumped on what I should be considering to do the job. Price isn't a factor but reliability certainly is. The gearbox and diff certainly feel like their in good condition, the only notable annoyance is occasionally first or reverse sometimes doesn't want to go in after the car has been started on a cold morning it eventually comes around after about 10-15 seconds after starting though, otherwise the drive itself never presents an issue, no crunching or worn feeling gears at all. I know I'm basically up for many if not all of the same requirements for the driveline as the R33 GTR but for reference could anyone help point me in the right direction for capacities and recommended grades for Gearbox, Transfer Case, Front / Rear LSD and Hicas. I'm between using Genuine Nissan, Redline Oils, Royal Purple and Motul for the job, but I'm happy to hear all helpful suggestions :-) Thanks in advanced.