NosDan

just to add my $1.29 to the steam pipe stuff, yes there for steam. a lot of factorys run off steam power still. sheridans (quilts/sheets) i did some work at years back and most of the machines there ran off steam.

not sure on the balancer just yet but at first looks it looks like it should work. as for the RB30's and how long they last, ive known of them doing up to 400,000k's and still been going strong. mine has done 214,000 and the bores still look awesome. and im basically going to be doing exactly the same as you and throw the r33 rb25 head on the untouched rb30 bottom end and see how long it will last and the power i can get outa it. when it blows, if im happy with the power it makes and how long it lasted ill just get another $50 bottom end and start again.

just FYI your better off looking for an R31 skyline for the motor, as a general rule nissan owners tend to look after there cars better and the motors are in heaps better condition. atleast thats what i found lookin at the average VL versus the average R31. if the motor your looking at gettin still has the head on it take a look under the oil cap and check how much sludge is in it. all the nissans i saw were relatively clean and all the vl's were cloged up. this is looking at around 30 different motors. also r31's use triple flat belt harmonic balancers

GTR = 444cc? i havent used a nismo FPR before, but found with the malpasi pressure was all over the place. played up with a/f's something shocking. removed it and went back to the stocker and the a/f graph was flat again. ive told people since not to bother with them. and of the tuners i know agree on the bandaid solution with them. IE better just to get injectors that suit the power you are looking for.

= bad spray patterns = uneven burn = poor econ, power, and dangerous. i hate FPRs. been tuning with them and they never seem to work nicely, but more to the point there not much cheaper than a set of 2nd hand larger injectors and there only a bandaid solution at best. save ya money and get some GTR injectors or something and use the stock 1:1 FRP u wont be sorry

dosent the head locate its self on the dowls? so the GTR bolts would only be more resistant to stretch? and im assuming 650bhp (480kw) is power at all 4? if so.... nice... strong boxes

you wont need the external oil feed for a GTR head, thats only R33 gts/gtst heads. and its the bottom g-box mounts that need redrilling/sloting

yep received and awesomely happy. this sellers 100% recommended. good luck with selling the rest of ya stuff, and thanx again Dan

umm why is it the pic is of one of those cheap ass ebay manifolds then?

i didnt quite wana be so blunt, but yer SR turbo. wonder who the sucker was that bought it and if they thought it was an RB turbo.

but the manifold in the pic is a T2 flange? is that not the manifold you are selling? can i have another pic of turbo and manifold clearly showing the exhaust flanges thanx dan

have you had the typical overheating problems you get with cheap bar and plate coolers? none of them let air through them and into the radiators. those cheap chineese coolers are worth every cent of there couple hondred bux, but never compare them to a quality jap core, stock GTR core will work better than a chineese core. id much rather $200 for a gtr core than $200 for a brand new B&P core. good luck with ya car and good luck with ya sale

if its for an SR wouldnt it be T2 flange? does the turbo bolt up to your manifold?

what happened to the 6th one? have they been tested?

unless for some funny reason greedy changed there stuff to suit top feed as well as ive seen some aftermarket setups. but yes generally SR, r33 RB25 = side feeds, RB20,26 = top feeds. tho if you can get 6x side feed s15 inj's they flow more fuel than the stock r33 items.

if its an r33 rb25 head then no it wont really work. GTR block dosent have the oil feed for the front bearings in the head.

no they arent a direct bolt up, the bolt holes are a couple of MM bigger, but the actual spacing is the same. so if you dont mind spending $15 on one 14mm (i think it was) drill bit and drilling out the holes in your hubs they will bolt up. im using them on my s13.

well ive had my rb25de r33 head for about a month, finally got around to getin my r31 rb30 bottom end on the weekend. do you people know that the r31 rb30s use a 3 flat belt harmonic balancer? also is there anyone out there making or herd of power levels that the R32 GTS4 manual boxes will handle? ive been trying to find info on these boxes but theres so much conflicting info on them that i have no clue as to what power they will stand up to. also tried lookin at what numbers stamped into them but after 1/2 an hour of looking at the box i just cant see anything stamped on them. anyone know where the number of the box is stamped on these boxes? thanx Dan

ok well that still tells me nothing. you say its apart, do you mean you have pulled apart the bearings etc? taken wheels off shafts? or just removed housings? or do you just not want to sell it?

apart from the rear housing being off, what else is wrong with it/apart? can i have some pics. thanx Dan

---------- RB 26 to RB 30 block sump adapter plates, 10mm cadium mild steel laser cut plate, with detailed photos and instructions of fitment and further minor mods $450. Please PM for further details.------------ Fitzpatrick Speed Works is the guys SAU nick. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...hp?showuser=193 <--- link to his details hope this helped the peole that want to use non gts4/gtr blocks into gts4/gtrs any of you guys thinkin about non turbo to turbo conversions thought about using a aus spec RB30 bottom end in theres? im about to build a wrecker spec rb30det (rb30 r31/vl bottom end with r33 gts head) for my car and should make HUGE power figures. check out the RB30 thread for all the info. if you can do the bolt up work yaself i dont beleive it will be overly expensive. i should know in a couple more how it all actually goes thanx Dan