skylinecouple

You could be right as the click sounds about the same noise level and pitch like a front wheel drive when c.v. is worn.

240kw maybe, but 260kws with cams,yes.Even at 240kws your really pushing the hi-flow turbo to anything from 16lbs to 19lbs which is alot of boost in a stock RB25.Watch the flaming now.

Try around 25% on set boost.

This would be funny if it didn`t sh%t me so much.Worn uni-joints? Subframe bushes? Just guessing. And yes it is embarrassing when I take off or excellerate. I just tell people it`s a mechanical diff.

What ever you do don`t get ceramic without a steel flywheel or shudder city here we come.

Same here,no problem.Just swap sensors to make sure all is R33.Only difference is one wire on 34 cas.

Hi Adam,I have 220kw with my Profec spec 11 so will try to help. Hi boost-17lbs Set boost-53% Gain- 15 Set gain-12.0lbs Warning-19.0lb Warning low-20% LOW BOOST=12lbs Set boost-25% Gain -15 Set gain-7.0lbs Warning-13.0lbs Warning low-15% Hope this helps.I get no spiking and boost comes on early.If you have a rough idea when boost should start with your setup it would help.If you use the last boost function to see real boost and compare it to the peak boost you will see if your spiking.Turn your set gain to zero while doing this as it is the last thing you set.Use third gear for your power runs as obviously you will be wearing out tyres very quickly.You should be aiming for a GAIN target where boost is coming on but if you turn it any higher it makes no difference.If boost then seems to drop off at high revs then turn it up 1% and so on and so on.Any probs just PM or call 0412662337.I`ll try to save you the hour of dyno time I spent getting it right.

Last time I looked they were $885.

Hi Cubes,to a degree you are right but in my case they have been butchered rather than hi-flowed.As Matt at Hitman in Penrith said,it probably has one or two that squirt like a garden hose.This makes it a lot more difficult to ignite the mixture.Honestly,if you saw the bastards before I put them in you would have bitch slapped me for doing it.I`ve regretted every day since but is soon to be fixed.

Get te nismo 555 injectors from slide on this forum.They are the cheapest around.

Hey Tony,when looking at injectors,keep thinking .........spray pattern,.....spray pattern......

I think that one sounds like the last of the turbos used on the leopard.Does it have an internal wastegate?If not it won`t work.These turbos are designed for maximum torque and won`t work for your application.You may have been looking at the one on e-bay.

Deatschwerks may be ok but I have had nothing but disappointment from AVO hi-flowed injectors.I originally thought they were ok but now know one or more have shocking spray pattern.Can`t add more timing due to this.

Go to tutorials.

Hey,I know who the owner is.!!...........It`s those indian guys from Ketzal Sterlings High Octane movies.

No doubt in my mind that the Nismo pump is the best.It is quiet and comes ready to bolt in.Wires already there on frame and pump mounted.

Just in case you need a cas,let me know.I have three,all good.

Be very careful guys.I had similar problem with timing all over the place and performance would change from one minute to the next.Turned out it was the timing belt missing half it`s teeth because the dumb shit mechanic used a mitsubishi belt.

Like me,try to move forward.If finances are ok then rip the head off and check damage.If pistons are ok then perhaps a port clean and even cams.Otherwise locate a standard head and bolt her back together.Do you feel you could rebuild it yourself if pistons are gone?

I was thinking like Cubes,perhaps over tensioning.Did you replace everything? I know the damage is done but if we can work out why then it might help someone else.If all was replaced and no levering I don`t know,just seams odd the belt was changed 200k`s ago,coincidence? I forgot to ask if the engine was running when it let go.

I asked that same question to my so called idiot mechanic,he used a lever to get the belt off instead of stripping everything first.Then believe it or not he admitted all and put in new cam.Ahh but thats not the end of the story.He replaces the belt with a mitsubishi part and leaves the tensioners as they were.Needless to say the belt let go on the dyno at 3,500rpm.I now have the R34 motor in with all R33 parts bolted back on.He only paid half.

Having real life experience on this subject I`ll bet the person putting the timing belt on used excessive force which weakened the damned thing or slightly bent it and it snapped over time.If it was you Jack I feel sorry for you as I to now have a good engine sitting around with bent valves.If,however,it was someone else;well,I`ll leave that to you.

I have good news for you.I already have the gaiters from mr.gaiters off e-bay.They fit perfect and real leather(smells nice to) so do yourself a favour and get them.Comes with matching hand brake cover and has embroidered Nismo insignia on both,looks very nice.Cost me $81.98 delivered to the door and came eight days after ordering.

I have two full sets of wheels and tyres.$200 per set.Am in campbelltown.0412662337.

Sorry guys,let me clarify.On a post on page 2 I said that I had a dyno run with no lid,that was with bonnet up.Obviously that would make a big difference in temps.But the run with 2kws less was with bonnet closed.So the setup really isn`t to bad.Three inch pipe from old cooler hole to underside of snorkel.Clamp both ends using pvc pipe connectors.Then cut small hole in front of lid facing headlight about 1'' by 3".Yes I know it isn`t perfect due to a little under bonnet temps but it does get me close to no lid at all.