nisskid

sweet, yeh i can't find any markings on the precision turbo, i've been told it's a 6265 by previous owner, and there's a texta written .72 on the comp housing, and that's all the specs i have haha. i had this same turbo on an rb25, lower rev limit, chinese intake mani which felt like it was doing harm, pump fuel, huge exhaust leak between the mani/housing due to shitty v-band clamp, and obviously turbo low comp, and i could use it, the doey clutch just made it hard on comp tyres, so i'm hoping the rear housing is bigger than .82 currently, and going down to .82 with twin scroll and hks mani, high comp and higher geared diff, the rb20 should chuff it along nicely.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogue/e090_camshaft-specs.html this is what im going off. still struggling with turbo choice, thinking about grabbing a new rear housing, maybe a touch smaller and twin scroll (assuming that's possible, feel a bit rookie asking, but i assume twin and single scroll internals are the same besides the housing, blade design isn't different?) for the precision, here are my choices https://www.treadstoneperformance.com/product.phtml?p=2169&cat_key=596&prodname=Precision+T4+V-band+Turbine+Housings%2C+Twin+Scroll .82 1.00 1.15 1.32

going to give it a whirl, plenty examples around with 30de and 25de's, i'm not planning on running 26psi, that was my old setup on the DET, it actually ran aroud 30psi most of the time due to control issues. never bothered to fix it as it never had any problem running it all day every day haha. plan is to run 17-20psi (maybe higher if the turbo i use needs it), the E85 is pretty amazing stuff. afaik RB20DE rods are the same as RB20DET rods? or at least strength wise. haven't pulled one apart yet to confirm, if they are weaker that'd be very usefull info. main worry atm is lack of oil squirters, but looking at RB30's i'm thinking it's not the end of the world.

yeh sorry i meant the valve springs, i'll poach the cams from my current det.

only going to 8000rpm so standard springs should be sweet, i assume they are the same de and det even though there are slight lift differentials? as far as intake, i'd love the ITB's, really like throttle response, if it's too much work i won't bother, but it'd be ideal if i could utilise it. Just not sure how, looked into cutting and shutting, but where? possibly cutting off the runners right at the flange, running some tubing with a laser cut flange to suit rb20? could be a chance to add some length to runners if they are a little short standard. not sure how that will play with fuel delivery but will be run with motec m500 which should allow some control.

i ran the precision on a 25 with a cheap chinese intake manifold and cheap NZ s/p ex mani (junk, but bought car as is), and it was pretty laggy but worked, only issue was when i went up to competition tyres, the clutch was too doey to keep the rpm up for it's setup. but it is a v-band housing-manifold, and it was running a cheap v-band so was leaking like a sieve. the 32 runs a much bitier clutch, hopefully decent plenum, the hks mani with no leaks, higher rpm (and higher ratio to suit), so i'd imagine it would be on par if not maybe a bit better even without the extra 500cc capacity. after currently running the same td06 turbo on both RB25 and RB20, i can say with all confidence that i much prefer the RB20's setup, however it did run e85 and more boost, but it was much stronger through the power region which counted for me (top end). The RB25 i run now with TD06 20g is better on the low speed stuff, but the 20 was still managable on the low speed, but had way more to give on the higher speed stuff.

thanks mate, was looking at those, but obviously that will still be keeping the journal bearings and no twin scroll.

Hey guys, chucking together another engine, trying out with a NA RB20 on jungle juice e85, was running a TD06 20g on the last 20(DET), made around 300rwkw, super happy with the response, lag was never an issue, have another car i use for small tracks which has response, this engine will be more for open tracks, wanna see what i can stretch the little 20 to, more of an experiment more than anything. Have a HKS twin scroll mani i'm using, and still have the TD06 although it may be in need of some love (it's had a good innings), also have a precision 6265. precision is a bit of a jump, but considering it's there and wont cost me anything, i'd be willing to try it, i've definitely had laggier setups, then change if it proves too much of an issue. The td06 25g is an obvious option, but i'd like to see if i could utilise the twin scroll manifold, ideally a ball bearing turbo, and with the high compression, squeeze around 330rwkw with around the same lag as the td06 20g, at less boost (26psi, had control issues). the limiter is going up to 8000rpm and possibly up to 4.6's from 4.1's. any ideas on a good turbo in that range, BB twin scroll, or is it not worth it? while i'm at it, looking into a forwards facing plenum setup, possibly adapting the RB26 itb setup, but unsure if it will help with midrange, or hinder. For me, the benefits of simplicity and clearance with them are extremely beneficial out on the track, so i'd like to justify one performance wise as well. any thoughts on that one too? cheers

For sale is a set of ORIGIN DNA-02's, 17x9.5 +15, 5x114.3. Look awesome, aggressive fitment. They have a few blemishes, but overall good condition. Located near Mitcham in SA $1150

still looking into external oil pump, just finding it hard to justify the extra $$ over the nitto internal jobby when we are fairly sure the nitto will be up to the job, any more insight into this as i'm really basing that on what i've been told, not my personal opinion. thanks for the tip on the mr2 pump! sounds good. will be running united E85 which seems to be the most consistent, not really moving from around 75-80% ethanol.

the setup we are looking at is a little bit custom, which we are hoping to take the cost down a fair way, but still not going to be cheap that's for sure.

cheers mate, definitely looking into electric water pump, probably a good idea to look into electric powersteering pumps as well.

like the way you're thinking mate!

and i guess there are different loads, it's not ultimate rpm, but it's sustained, so it's not really an area heaps of people on here have been, but i'm sure a lot have good theories.

cheers mate, a lot of good info. yeh my guess is the comp will be some where around 9.5:1, not keen to go full NA spec on that, even though a few tuners are confident with E85 and slightly less boost that it will be fine. have been looking into the camtech range, i'm sure they are able to provide a bit of info as well on top http://www.camtechcams.com.au/niss_6cyl_rb26.html

yeh cheers mate, so you reckon electric pump? instead of say N1 water pump, and under drive on the powersteering? my guess is powersteering is going to be a bit of an issue due to the steering setup i run, the loads it puts on the hydraulic system are already above normal, so i'm imagining it will take a bit to get that right, maybe an electric version would be a good way to control that.

cheers mate, yeh you're right, it is a big step from 9000-9500, to be honest 8.5-9000 is the goal, but reliably in a drift application where it will be bouncing off that, hence why there is a lot of provisions being taken on the bottom end which realistically probably rate it to over 9000. I guess my biggest issue with turbo setup is i have had good success with Kando TD06 20G so far, i ran 30psi through my last one for over a year under constant track thrashing, and it feels like brand new. I'm a little worried to move away from Kando's as i am seeing the premium brands blowing at similar rates, not to say they are worse quality, but at $700ea i can afford to blown 1 or 2 over a few years, at $2000+ it's a different issue, and to be honest with what i've seen from mine and other Kando's, i have complete faith in them lasting well over a year, even under harsh conditions. Ideally i'd like to stay within the Kando range, if it's a matter of a few hundred RPM of full boost here and there, i'd rather still go the kando and use the $$ i save on track time. I honestly didn't believe the TD06 25G would completely die by 8500ish, as i've seen it pulling pretty strong on other engines, but it's not an area i'm real knowledgeable with. I'd be fine with it flattening out from 8.2-9000 RPM as with it being a drift car, the mid-high range is generally where you need it to sing, the final 1000rpm is usually just feathering, you need the wheel speed, but you don't need a whole lot of torque there, in fact ideally it doesn't have heaps of torque to ramp up the revs hard at that point.

the funny part is, one of them is still sitting on a half cut, on an sr which is as far as i know is stock bottom end. can only imagine how much fun that would be to drive, 500rpm powerband.

Lithium, we've been around here around the same time, i've dealt with more technical bullshit than most guys on here, albeit mostly with chassis/suspension/steering setup. I'll be the first to admit i don't have all the answers with engine building, hence why i am here asking for advice, but i've also been on here long enough to know that for every newbie with no idea, there's a guy that's been around for a long time who thinks there is only one way to go about it all, and that any other way is stupid. My goals are not to set a record 1/4 mile, or to have a dyno sheet, they are to create an enjoyable engine to use, i am asking for advice on how to achieve these goals, not about whether my goals are stupid or not. I have owned an RB26 with a T78 which ran 8500rpm reliably with stock bottom end, maybe not ideal, i didn't build it personally, however clearly it is far from an impossible task to have a reliable 9000rpm runner. The bottom end is mostly being taken care of, we are confident in it's ability to take those revs, however cam choice, turbo choice, manifolds etc is where i'm trying to broaden my understanding.

i agree, i ran 7000rpm setup for years and it was fine too, i'm not saying there is anything wrong with less RPM, personally i don't see any point in spending the cash to end up with an engine many others have done in the past, there are a few additional twists to this engine which make it special, but not overly relevant here in this thread. the point being this engine is designed to be different, one of the challenges i'm facing at the moment is supporting the higher RPM in the head (cam/turbo/manifold etc), we have a bunch of provisions already in place, but obviously i'm always looking for more insight. i have asked for help with achieving an efficient engine running around 9000rpm, i'm not asking for anyone's personal opinion on whether trying to achieve 9000rpm safely is the correct decision.

i understand, but i'd put in a wrecker special RB20 before spending a bunch of cash on an engine to just hit 7500rpm, an RB20 will do 8000rpm all day every day with over 200,000k's on the block, so i'd be pretty disappointed if a RB26 can't make another 1000rpm safety with all the prep work done to it,

haha, well i have owned a T78 RB26 before, i don't think i was making the most out of it as some jap had tuned it and i didn't have a chance to change it whilst i was over there, but it was definitely fun, but anything under 5500 you could forget about it lol

Hey guys, i appreciate you get a lot of clueless guys in here with tall dreams and stupid ways to go about things, i know, i have seen it all. But the biggest issue with SAU is a lot of guys believe there is 1 way to do things, and that is it. Generally it's an RB30, and the emphasis is almost always on low down torque. Believe me when i say, i know what i want, i have owned and thrashed (on track) almost any RB combo you can imagine, not to mention Jz's, V8's, SR's, CA's, 4AGE's etc etc, there are certain characteristics i enjoy whilst driving an engine, i don't need approval from a forum, i don't need dyno figures or 1/4 mile times, i'm building this engine to suit my driving, i enjoy high revs, responsive throttle, and i'm not a stranger to some lag. the compression ratio we are looking to use will be around the 10:1 mark, high i know, but on jungle juice, maybe with a larger turbo on low boost, this would work quite nicely. t04e would be far from my first choice, but the fact that i have 2 around makes it appealing to me, even if i am sacrificing 200-300 rpm response. thanks for the help guys!

yeh this thing will be on pump jungle juice.

Not when what i'm being told is to reduce the revs, this is the key part to the build, without revs i wouldn't bother with this project, may as well get an LS1 if all i was is low down torque.