No Crust Racing

My CA is only building about 14psi instead on 18 or so but it's also running lean rather than rich. Manual boost controller. Wide band in the decay pipe. Ideas?

Winton tomorrow.

Fitted R33 booster, pedal sink on startup is more pronounced and there seems to be a bit more travel on the pedal (i measured everything too so it shouldn't be in the booster rod adjustments). Won't now til I drive it but weather is looking really uncertain so not sure if we'll make the test and tune on Friday or not. If we do go I'll take the other set of pads also.

Double post

Are you local?

Boosters not masters.

Are these the same? I ask as I'm after an R33 booster for my Silvia (using BM50 with 4pots) and have been offered a Z32 booster but can't for the life of me confirm if they are the same.

Would love to get this wrapped up this weekend if possible so preference if you're in Albury/Wodonga. Just after the booster, BMC not required. Going on a Silvia. Can get one for $60 posted from Melb so will match that locally and you keep the extra $$ that would have covered postage.

I read all the same stuff, hence taking it in. Guy behind the counter was very helpful and said while he was not 100% it was definitely faulty, it should behave as you mentioned above (and as I can get one for $50 second hand easily enough to just swap it out). I'll grab another and see how it goes.

I reckon I should be able to grab one locally. I'll confirm it's stuffed first as I don't know enough about properly testing them, I am only assuming that air I felt is a problem. I'd prefer to have it confirmed.

All the best ones do I'll update later when I've spoken to Brakes man.

"In most cases" You must have powerful swimmers my man. We were fine with just the pill until we decided it was time. Now we have our very own Tamagotchi. I mean Toddler.

That's enough to prevent pregnancy in most cases...

Lol what

Well still confused. I wasn't 100% clear on what he actually wanted me to measure, but I can say the rod on the booster has clearance to the master and is not hard up against it. What I did find is that with the booster removed from the car and my finger over the fitting where the vac hose would connect. I could operate the booster by hand (which I thought he said I shouldn't be able to do but I'm not sure if he went with it on or off the car). Either way, when the rod extends out the front I can feel air moving past the rod which I would assume is supposed to be air tight. I have it with me and will drop past the brakes place tomorrow to discuss.

The booster itself has been tested with and without Vac, and behaves as expected. I'll test the pedal without it, but really that's no different to me pumping the pedal then holding it down and starting the car. I'm hoping to get a few mins tonight and I'll focus on the booster rod length I think.

Thanks for the feedback. I'll test it when I can but it must be either stuffed master (unlikely) or due to the booster adjustment. I'm hoping to get some time on it tonight.

Spoke to brake guy again. He said based on what I've said the booster sounds fine to him and if it was never firm before hand (with the same brakes) it shouldn't be firm now. He suspects my adjustment of the rod to re-position the pedal might be the issue and has given me some notes on checking rod to master clearances, there should be some travel on the pedal and I'd say there's little if any. I'll take a look. That might help the initial pedal firmness but I can't see how it will help how it feels once the booster rod comes in contact with the master.

What would you suggest then? As I said I'd expect the car to drive poorly if a caliper was seized so that leaves me with the master being stuffed, and though it's not leaking internally that's not to say the diaphragm isn't stuffed from being pumped during bleeding. I'd really love to avoid having to bleed the bloody thing again.

I can try to get some pics. Fluid is all new from when I rebuilt all calipers.

I have another set I can try but the car isn't registered and it's too wet to get it out. I've done some more booster testing and it seems fine so what else does that leave? If it had a seized caliper you'd think it would pull to one side or brake unevenly and it didn't. I think his point was that I'd cooked the pads and that they're cactus. I did get to a point a few times at the last Winton day where I'd over heated the brakes and had to back off, which is why I added the brake ducts. I had to machine the rotors back so much that there's no slots in the fronts anymore. Just above minimum thickness.

Don't believe what they say about you mate, you're alright

Spoke to brake guy and he said he's almost certain it will be that those pads have hardened/are too hard but gave me some more booster tests to do, connect to vac on the car and then I should be able to move the rod by hand, if not it's dead, if so it's fine. If it tests fine I'll put it all back together and see what happens when I get the pads fully hot at Winton in a few weeks. Annoying because removing the booster was a shit job and putting it back will be worse. Probably shouldn't have jumped the gun in removing it...

I'm looking to replace the booster on my S13 (with 4 piston brakes and a BM50) and read an R33 booster is a good choice and is a direct fit. I can't find one locally but I can get an R34 one easily, are they the same?

Bummer, I enjoy a good DIY rebuild. Anyone know what other boosters will fit as I also read that an undersized booster can be an issue with larger front calipers and a larger BMC.