Simon-S14

couple of others.. check the smoke coming off the front tyres lol

cheers for the pics.. looks good was awesome fun.. and yes i did throw the ceffy around somewhat like an ae86... but thats the way its gotta be done pity my rear tie rods are both broken.. and somehow i managed to make it to 4th place... phil those tyres wernt going on the battle with chris.. the car was just gettiong worse and worse.. big thanks for helping out with tyres too mate, much appreciated!!

nah i just adjusted them, the shoes still have meat left in them. i was going to get some URAS handbrake shoes.. but they are expensive at 212bucks for shoes!

if it changes up a gear and the revs raise/slurs the change/feels like a slipping clutch then its a sure fire sign that the box is rooted.. rebuilding the box will cost around the 600 mark... consider swapping to a manual box!

s13's dont have drum handbrakes so that rule's that out. I'd be looking at s14's or r32's or something... but pull yours out and find something that matches them.

if it sounds like a volkswagon then yeah more then likely yu have moisture in the plugs/connections.. disconnect everything and spray it out with contact cleaner/crc/wd40 and then just leave it out in the sun for an hour... plug everything back up and see if it runs then. if not i'd be taking it straight back to the panel beater and making it their problem!

other things to check. - Altenator: the bearings might be stuffed or the bushes failing, hence the burning smell.. - power steering pump: again, bearing related. - water pump: bearing also... but wont explain burning smell all the above will increase a whine with the revs.. if they are failing/failed. try disconnecting belts one by one off each item and quickly start motor/rev and switch off to see if it still whines or goes away... one way to diagnose it

sorry, i was in fact looking at another just jap product at the same time when viewing this thread. lol no that apexi filter is good, ive got one also

post amended

the turbo may be good for 240 rwkw but there is no way in hell your going to get 240 rwkw out of stock ecu, injectors and AFM on an RB25... you need to upgrade all these parts at a minimum.. and then maybe run above stock boost.. to something like 1 bar.

mod for mod, the 25/26 wil always beat the 20 due to its extra capacity. however there are a few highpowered RB20's arounjd the place that with a grippy set up car would more then likely blow away a stock GTR... as for having no bottom end.. well they are only a 2 litre motor, so you either need to rev them to get power, or add capacity either way, i love my rb20, makes great power for bugger all bucks!

looks nice mate, slap 12K on it and hope for the best, leave some room for negotiating

11-12K with good paint and working coilovers. otherwise 9-10K

tuning has a lot to do with how the car drives and delivers power thats for sure. the KKR has nothing in common with a t04 turbo thats for sure.

its not like a light switch either really, nothing like an old school TO4 turbo.

ok, the car is a drift car, not s street car, so i was after a fairly sharp torque range in the midrange for responce and the ability to keep the tyres smoking after entering a high speed corner while slowing down for a slow speec hair pin. XSomething a stock Rb20 doesnt do well. not too fussed about making much more peak power... would rather have reliability and midrange torque then massive peak HP. cheers Simon

Ive driven a number of turbo car's, and the KKR comes on in quite a rush compared to some. either way. its makes the power, and theres plenty in it once the AF ratios are sorted

wheelspin is provoked by torque delivery being so sudden rather then peak power figure. and yeah the tyres on the back were a bit average, 235/45/17's however poor quality rubber.

thats just it, people feel the need to make opinions because its a cheap turbo and bush bearing, but at the end of the day it makes power and it costs bugger all doing it.

1 to 1.1 bar depending on weather and yes, it will be perfect and lag free on the RB25... it suits the rb20 very well and there is minimal lag, plenty of torque and top end too!

i couldnt reccommend them any higher... for the money they are awesome turbo's see sig for KKR contact Cheers Simon

I posted in Forced section.. link here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=129817

Got my car dyno'ed today... its been a long time due, and with the issues i had at the recent G1 comp (ignition cutting out) i took with me spares of everything, AFM, CAS, Ignitor etc to swap it over.. but it turns out that the ECU is a bit on the dodgy side I always thought i had a stock map on my ECU.. but turns out that its been remapped in Japan, whoever did it, certainly likes their taste for fuel, as throughout the whole midrange (4000 - 6000) rpm the fuel mixes were off the scale and mega rich (off the scale being lower then 10:1) Couldnt believe it and neither could jeff... so he went to work taking out all the fuel, adding some timing and so forth. Took a few runs and due to some weird as ECU related issues, we wasted a lot of time and chips and so we were cut short on the dyno time. My main goal was to increase the midrange torque and so forth, i wasnt really fussed about the top end power as much, as i was happy with that and i didnt want to run anymore boost then i already was. So with the changes to the map we were able to get phernominal torque out of the RB20 around the 4500 rpm range, the KKR430 comes on HARD now and basically the torque curve in 3rd gear is near verticle, in 4th it is equally massive. several times the car tried to climb out the dyno... crazy! Final figure was 197.4 rwkw's on 1 bar boost, Runs were done in 4th gear. I have taken pics of the dyno graph, however Jeff is going to be changing this in the very near future to smooth out those midrange mixtures some more. All in all im very happy with the results.. On the road it basically translates to massive wheel spin when i floor it in 3rd and even more wheelspin when i grab 4th Big thanks to Jeff from The Speed Lab for persisting through all the related ECU and chip drama's and Steve from jazmac for helping out and the Dyno hire. Power run showing AF mixes in 4th gear Pink is 3rd gear and Red is 4th gear... Keep in mind that power and torque figures are accurate in 4th gear...

each to their own but what i mean was. you need to keep cutting the stock back... make the cut out for the cooler a rectangle shape. instead of the shape you currently have... if you catch my drift

lol word