Jump to content
SAU Community

Simon-S14

SAU SA Club Member
  • Posts

    4,782
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Feedback

    100%

Everything posted by Simon-S14

  1. i know, its going on the front of the new radiator thats going in. no one answered my question tho, Does the RB30 rad fit or not with some work?
  2. forget the fan, its wired to suck air through the radiator. Thats not the problem in question.
  3. Having drama's with my radiator... bought the car with the current rad in it, its an r32 with RB20det etc etc, nothing outlandish at all. Somewhere along the lines someone has fitted this rad to it. dont have a engine bay shot but basically the top rad hose crosses over under the cooler pipe and touches it... transferring all the heat in the process and the bottom rad crosses over and comes damn close to the crank pully. its also been overheating on the track, so i dont think this rad is up to the job, mainly due to the top pipe location IMO, since its as thick if not thicker then a stock rad. so anyway, i went to upgrade.. couldnt find a suitably priced stocker and several people told me to chuck a RB30 radiator in there, So i went and bought a good cond rad with top and bottom hose for 70 bucks. now.. the bloody thing is too tall and the bonnet wont shut with it in the car, i was trail fitting it and the top and bottom hoses will fit perfectally but its too tall... whats the go? do they fit with mods or not a chance in hell? Cheers Simon
  4. yeah and 9 times out of 10 its the IAC valve thats down near the fuel rail thats the cause of the prob. i had the exact same prob, followed by a consistant high idle, so i cleaned the AAC valve which did SFA, so i just blocked off the IAC valve and now it idles at a smooth 900 rpm, cause i couldnt be bothered fixing the damn thing thats so hard to get to
  5. plenty of r32 4 doors around in non turbo... either that or buy a NA cefiro or laurel. waste of time getting a GTSt and taking the turbo off. the car will be slower then a NA car to drive due to the less compression etc etc. Either that or save your cash, drive a shitter untile your off your P's and get a nice car then.
  6. estimated power @ 19psi? and yeah your right about the taking a while to get to 9 psi... once its got the air flow and load happening it just shoots up from there... crazy stuff. Im hanging out for some injectors so i can crank 230 rwkw ish.
  7. yeah its more then likely your cam cover gasket seals, easy and cheap to replace mate. Worst case scenario is that you could leak a fair bit out the exhaust side and onto the manifold and start burning the oil off/or catch fire.. rare but it can happy. Sounds like you just have a small leak. Nissan spare parts will have the parts for you
  8. i have sat on 200kph on back straight of mallala, at a constant speed once i had accelerated up to that speed. i maintained the speed and the boost gauge was still well into the vac range... ming you boost was tiny depression away lol. this is with a rb20 + large turbo
  9. pffft, i prefer to use the "undo bolts and let it drop" method
  10. diff still for sale ppl. Price is neg
  11. not much from me, im trying to track down some injectors before i wind up the boost for more power. I just wired a power feed + relay from the battery to the fuel pump also as reccommended by a few people as i was having lean out issues at high rpm on 205 rwkw on stock injectors, the injectors should be good for another 10-15 rwkw so not sure why the lean out there. Thought the walbro might be taxing a bit much power from the stock fuel pump wiring. Plan is injectors, boost controller of somesort, Z32 afm and dyno, want around 230 rwkw.
  12. Gread reading Jeff! im learning a lot here.
  13. ey? the water and oil lines are exactally same as RB20 turbo so there should be no need to touch either the feed or returns for them.
  14. thats right, direct fit, but you need the elbox off the compressorhousing also to suit. but yeah, all bolt on
  15. Ive got a S15 diff for sale Complete centre, minus Half shaft flanges, just add your own. LSD centre and 4.3 ratio. I have had the back cover off to verify the ratio. Price: $400 Location: Adel SA
  16. if you are really keen hook up a boost gauge at the turbo and at the manifold to find out what sort of efficency your running in your cooler and pipe arrangement. ive only got a 1 psi drop overall. so my cooler and pipes are doing not too bad!.
  17. english please... the KKR 430 is fine.. and if ytou read the above posts you'll see that at 200 rwkw the Slide turbo and the KKR are very similar in performance.. its over 200 rwkw that the Slide turbo starts to really shine. I didnt find the KKR430 very laggy once my car was tunned. Maybe your mate forgot this crutial part when he chucked the turbo on his car.
  18. sounds great, i want one.. who do i contact to purchase? cheers simon
  19. i need one of these puppies.. where do i get them from?
  20. whats this turbotech controller you speak of?
  21. ive got a full 3 inch dump to tip exhaust, however jeff noticed that the wastegate wasnt flowing enough aand it creeps up in boost at high rpm.. either that or my bleed vlave is causing drama's
  22. 25 degrees from 6000 to 7800 ... far out! You sure thats right? im suprised its not pinging like crazy, Whats your base timing set at and what fuel are you running?
  23. Yeah jeff did a fantastic job considering the issues i had with my car, not to sure why im running out of fuel up top as im just cracking 200 rwkw and i have a walbro pump in the car, injectors should be good for another 10-20 rwkw. that said, i'll get some injectors, AFM and crank the boost a little more. dyno sheet here.
×
×
  • Create New...