Simon-S14

im pretty happy with mine atm... onlything holding me up from more power is injectors and AFM wich are on the cards soon enough. I get no wheel spin whatso ever... pretty happy with that. just hauls. But thats largely due to my suspension set up.. even if it is used for drift. And drift it does... bloody well. Had some 18X10 work wheels on the back with some 235's stretched on.. shredded them hard in 3rd and 4th gear... was pretty crazy

i'd hardly call that a comparison lol.

Contact Slide for turbo's but you either buy outright or supply your turbo as an exchange and get a discount. I recently did a trip to mildura for xmas and i was getting 8.9 L per 100Kms on the open road with the maximum oversixed highflow and Jeff form TSL tune. I was very happy with that. And yes... when the boot is in it... any car will use shit loads of fuel. But... FWIW last night i went to drift prac at mallala and i live 100 kms from the track.. drove the car there on a full tank.. thrashed around all night.. and drove home all on the same tank.. all up it was 300 kms... prety happy with that.,

Bearings make little relevance to peak power output at ... BB might make it spool up quicker over bush bearing but thats about all. the difference is ESP noticeable when your talking large turbos where the rotating mass is a lot more.

Thanks Jeff i made a thread HERE about the recent upgrade. I'd like to thank Jeff from TSL and Aaron from Sliding Performance for both helping out with the recent upgrade. The new turbo now has a smaller wheel, Biago shaft and smaller housing designed at increasing responce and spool up times. Jeff and i have learnt that there is only so much you can do with the midrange of an RB20... the downside of having a short stroke and small pistons being that you need a few rpm on board. Took it out to Mallala last niight for drift prac and i was hitting turn 1 at 170 kph in 4th gear dropping back to limiter of 3rd for the transition (for those familiar with the track) thats a half main straight entry and no one else was getting close to it. Love it! Downside is 4000 rpm is still the dead zone... either i change the exhaust cam timing as suggested or the gearing.. will look into it soon! Fry tyres it does.. had a pair of 18X10 Works on the back with 235/40/18's on it... 80 % tread and they smoked up so hard... more then Robbie Bolgers Monaro lol. Further proof of Jeff's tuning and RB20's strength is in the fact that i Exited a corner and went to upchange into 3rd gear and accidentally went to 1st... tacho went way way past 9000 RPM redline.... but.. it lives

redtop RB20 (NICS version) cefiro and CA18 packs are all the same.

dyno this morning and drift tonight. makes 225 rwkw on 15 psi stoked!

haha cheers man but i've got a bar on the way now Took the turbo off and sent it back to Slide from sliding performance to change the rear housing and wheel to that of a smaller one. want to try and get it to come on earlier and harder, while still making same if not more top end grunt. should be out at lala on feb 10th anyway

turboing the NA perhaps....

need some 32 skyline centre and pass side air vents from the dash.. got any?

i had same issues today also.. tried several times and came back with error messages

ive heard of this before.. and tis got to do with the cam shaft being out of alignment with the CAS shaft... take your exhaust cam cover off and suss out to see if all the cam bearing caps are tight and seated properly.. turn the motor over by hand to make sure the cam spins true and straight.

disregard the fact that the pump might not be running when the ignition is switched on and check to see if you have actual pressure in the lines when the engine is cranking over. if you do, this will effectivly rule out the pump. Get an LED test light and test the injectors to see if they are pulsing while cranking.. which will also rule these out. Tehn thats just about the fuel side of things. One thing to check that no one has mentioned is the Crank Angle sensor.. if this is failing it will cause the crazy missfires at revs... and if it has failed it wont start at all... other things to check would be AFM's, Timing belt and timing in general, may have jumped, Ignitor for coilpacks, power to coils, and packs acctually firing,

question is.. are the dampers matched to the different spring rates. and are the dampers different front to rear or just the same with different brackets

FWIW i bought a paid of rear camber arms from Just Jap, installed them, drove round the block then jacked car up again to retension all fittings and i noticed not one but both arms had cracked in crutial points in their welds... Horrible products and even worse customer service... i got my money back in the end but not after being labled "an arsehole customer" and a hell of a wait. i for one wont ever EVER recommend them

so anyone got an answer?

Yeah sure was Slide. Slip, after wiper assy, dash cluster, verious bits of trim bits on so forth cheers Simon

yeah with useable boost still well before 3000.. personally i think the turbo is great... im just lacking the cubes (pun not intended) to make it spin up faster mmm i'd love a 30 bottom end

i could be wrong but from talking with him last time he mentioned he was using 100 octane fuel and more timing then most would. Hence the awesome numbers. Cubes: i dont know if i can help you as im going by what the turbo was like on my rb20.. not a 30. However that said tis not totally undriveable and makes great power at 4500 rpm onwards... hopwever on the dyno it makes 80 rwkw at 4000 rpm and in the space of 1000 rpm gains another 80 rwkw. so ti comes on hard thats for sure. my problem is that my car is used for drift... and there are a few corners which require high speed entrys and then backing off and feathering the throttle is required to negotiate the course... the prob is i seem to drop off the power zone too much and have to resort to clutching it a lot just to get it going again..

bummer oh well.. if any one can answer the question would be good. cheers Simon

Do R32, 33 and 34 share the same sized Ball joints? Im aware of the length of the control arms being different but are the ball joints them selves different? IS there any difference at all in the LCA between a S1 33 and S2 33? Cheers Simon

yeah i agree, 241 with the highflow is awesome on a rb20... even if you are using 100+ octane fuel I got the RB25 Maximum overside highflow withstage 3 wheel for my rb20 and im sad to say its just too large for the RB20 Slide has come to the rescue tho and offered to make it a normal sized RB25 highflow so i can habve some hope of spooling it up , Big thanks to Slide! so yeah i'll post results when i get it going again

nice work... however i dare say the dyno might be reading a tad on the highside... as those RB25 turbos dont make quite near 200 rwkw.. also, the fact you break traction in 1st 2nd and 3rd doesnt mean you have shitloads of power.. just shit tyres, and majore camber issues. my drift R32 has 210 rwkw, with a Slide Highflow, and has plenty of traction in 2nd and 3rd 1st is a waste of time in any turbo car haha

thanks mate on another note.. i noticed your sig. im after some 31 parts and was wondering if you still had bits and pieces?

haha yeah i guess ive had a few... had AE86's for 3 years... then i wanted something completly different so i got the cefiro. Needed rego and ceffy wasnt going to be easy to comply in SA so i got the 32 which is rego'ed.. Ive since set it up way better then ceffy was but it just needs some paint to make it look hot. As for sponsorship.. i tried well over several hundred places last year to try and get some funds together to compete in DA, but i just didnt have any luck.. secured a couple of smaller sponsors and every little bit helps but still at the end of the day it just isnt enough.