Simon-S14

should look better once its done lol

haha nah, i'll have a few laps of someone elses car tho Colour isnt huge change, just a slightly lighter shade of red, with a coarse metallic flake in it. I just wanted to tidy the car up, get a kit on and make it look nice. Sliding Performance has jumped on board as a sponsor.. so Massive thanks to Aaron at Slide for his help so far.. should have some wicked looking stickers on the car soon and for SD at lala.

ahh im just mucking around huddy but the ics's are pretty average things. care to share your rear axle wheel alignment settings with us?

car is in primer now... slow progress due to work and other things that need to be done... grrr anyway here's some pics

the way i have it set up now has a lot to do with what trent told me to do im just looking at peoples opinion as to what works and what doesnt. What would making the rod longer do?

looks pretty! god get rid of that ICS crap! i dont care if its free or not.. that shit is letting your car down

the sway bar applys pressure from one side to the other.. you may need to use a long lever in the form of a pole, or so on... And a jack under the lower control arm to take the weight off it. Not reall hard to do, but if you do a few things to assist it it will pop right off.

tis what i have, the 27mm front and the 24mm rear adjustables. i cant put the front on the softest setting due to the sway bar link being so fat bent out of wack that it really affects the handling... seems whiteline and SK dont believe that this is a problem tho....

Z Imports have a cefiro door, 150 bucks! laughing

ok i have the SK combo also. With 8kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rears in my r32 and the fronts are on medium and rears on hard. I find that theres quite a lot of understeer... esp in the mid corner grip. Now i know my spring rate is quite stiff for the front bar, But softening the sway bar doesnt do anything, in fact the sway bar link is on an excessive angle when on the soft setting which makes the system work even worse. But yeah, I use my car for drift comps, with good tyres all round and on higher speed 3rd and 4th gear corners it handles great... but on slower speed it just understeers. I plan on either changing the front bar to a smaller one or lowering my spring rates all round.

ive used 215/45/17's on 9 inch rim and it works well. however you need a good quality tyre to get grip. Also they are going to be fair stretched so unless your drifting i wouldnt bother

got a 32 4 door 235/45/17 antyres/westlakes usually new.

yes i have, im really after peoples actual real life experience with adjusting the traction rod.

Traction rods... is the name given to that third short straight arm in the rear of a s13/R32/Cefiro etc. Ive got adjustable traction rods, camber arms and toe arms in my drift R32 and i am looking at further increasing my rear grip when the power is down. I have had a bit of a play with adjusting the traction rod, but i am not sure which way i should be adjusting it and how much by. So far my rear alignment is like this. 0.5 Degrees Camber 1mm total toe in traction rod is 4mm shorter then stock. High speed grip is great... how ever at the slower speed corners it just doesnt want to put the power down, also there seems to be a lack of mid corner grip at the front also. Was thinking of changing the traction rod length again and see what else i can get happening. I understand that it is suppose to control how much toe you have while under squat... But yeah... i'd like some more info on this!

doesnt look like it from the pics. I got a couple of questions, What sort of power are you making, and what ECU are you using to run it? Hows the driveabilityt and lag? etc etc looking at doing this myself!

get some ARP rod bolts and so on... spend the extra for quality. as for run in.. im a firm believer of running it in like you would normally drive it. Read this article for more info. RUNNING IN Ive had rotors, and several other piston motors built up. and have always run them in hard, While not absolutly thrashing them by sitting on the limiter etc. But rev them out and load them up! light load and low revs will result in a motor that is un responsive!

short of sending trans SA some C4 in the mail... im not sure theres much you can do been told that in order to get the SA rego i have to have the side intrusion bars, cheapest quote ive had so far is 750 bucks.... what crap.. i wouldnt be so miffed if it was a fresh import, but as you said its been complied and rego'ed in another state.. and compliance means complying with AUSTRALIA design rules.. so this means country wide compliance... and last time i checked tassie was still a part of Aust (tho some people may disagree) fools... i hate em! EDIT: Further more... i know this is inark's old car also.. and that he did the manual conversion... All im going to say about that is it the single most dodgy6 conversion i have seen yet.. want an example? how about several! My clutch peddle box broke in peak hour traffic during my lunch break at work... i had to limp it back to work with no clutch.. not an easy task. So i ripped out the peddle box and there was a dozen cotton mechanics gloves stuffed between the firewall and the peddle box... acting as a spacer or whatever the f**k it was for, and that the box was only bolted to the firewall, the third bolt that goes at the top wasnt even there, aso the whole time it has been flexing away and thats why it broke. So i rewelded it back up, then bolted it in properly and left the gloves out this time works awesome now.. the clutch feel is ten times lighter and the feel itself has changed heaps. Then theres other dodgy shit like, wires for the box not soldered or anything, just twisted together, box cross member held in by two bolts... (Trans SA didnt like this one much either) Needless to say... inark is dodgy

you can see in my pic theres an aftermarket one.

no theres more lol

sadly it doesnt work that way by the looks.. They have said that several of the items needed to comply the car do not conform to standards, so i have to change the child restraints, fit side intrusion bars and so forth since it doesnt comply.. biggest load of shit. anyway i got sick of being f**ked around. and started on my respray project. couple of pics here

you can get Tail light covers for the 4 door lights also cube. I have them on mine and they look great, Just need to rewire the indicators.

when you have brakes the size of that merc... who cares lol `

No the base coat isnt, at least thats not what the tin says! Ive got activator to go with the clear coat, so that should be alright. So i just need to get some thinners. Any reccommendations there?

awesome big thanks for the write up mate! Couple of questions tho. I got all my stuff from a smash suppliers through my work (mechanical workshop) so it was all done over the phone. They sent me 4L of Dupont Centari 610 basecoat, 4L of Dupont Centari 120sx 2K clear and 2L of 120SX Activator. no data sheets or anything, i called them up and they said they would send me a copy but im still waiting. Had a look on Dupont's website with no luck either. The backs of the tin's are pretty useless.. but juding by the picture on the basecoat tin it says you need a ratio of 1 to 0.8 of basecoat to reducer. Does this sound about right? I asked them to send me everything i would need, so pretty strange they didnt send me the reducer...

someone wanna hel,p me with my questions