Simon-S14

nuts thanks mate was hard battling cars that had build up budgets of in excess of 150K when mines just a basic streeter with basic mods lol

yeah red 32 with sliding performance down the sides

anyone get any pics or vids of me? I was in the Sliding Performance R32 4 door

R33 apparently is a stronger upgrade, get a tape measure and find out

well its not going to make it worse is it But yes i would say that having the mass lower woul;d have some gains. However in the real world, and during drifting, you wouldnt notice it.

wouldnt mind knowing some prices for sizes in 235/45/17! cheers

I just installed a just jap kit into a S2 R33 yesterday, took me 4 hours as i had never done a 33 before. The reo needed trimming, as did the back of the bumper and side air dams to clear the pipes, Horns needed bending back or flipping around backwards to clear, and some plastic needs to be shaved off the AC fan, otherwise it all fits in no worries...

mines rather hot now.. if i say so my self

yes S13 or cefiro subframe will fit just lock that hicas up, quicker and easier

if you want to upgrade and CBF changing the whole subframe, apparently R33 ones fit, and are stronger, however i have not done this yet so i cannot vouch for it. 2nd hand i paid 20 bucks pair from Z imports. New i would say 40 each? My r32 is showing signs of wear in that area now... so i might look into the r33 option./

easy was to tell is to jack up the rear of the car and grab the rear wheel and try and move it side to side. My cefiro managed to distroy the rear rack ends on both sides at a winton track day, i could move each wheel 5mm or so, needless to say handling was very much affected.

looks the goods now!!

this car is so much fun to drive

is there any reason why you dont run a mm or few toe out on the front gary?

get them on a shock dyno, that will eliminate that soon enough, and worst comes to worst you can rebuild them for around 100 each. How are your rear subframe bushes? my cefiro under hard braking used to walk all over the place and it turned out to be all 4 subframe bushes had perished and crumbled away... making the whole rear move around a lot. ended up fitting alloy spacer/bushes and that solved that

plugs are done by feel... with a spark plug socket + extention bar thread them in finger tight, then use the ratchet to tighten them 1 full revolution, never any more. best to err on the too loose side then too tight. and no, having the plugs too tight will not make the plug come in contact with the piston, it will on the other hand give you drama;'s when it comes to take the plug out with it possibly snapping the ceramic section off in the head.

well cars all painted. thank god its over thats all i can say, im seriously sick of sanding, prepping and then the stress of painting in your backyard while bugs and shit land in your paint... anyway it came out ok, couple of runs in the clear coat, and a few dust specs.. but looks ok for a back yard job. Never mind the stock bumpers.. they havent been painted, hence the difference in colours. Ive got a roadworthy inspection tomorrow so its stock as a rock atm... After that on goes the stickers, kit, wheels, susp etc etc al;l ready for DA/SD at mallala!

What Aaron said sums it up perfectally. I run a Slide turbo on my rb20 and make around 225 rwkw normally running 1.1 bar. However i have taken my boost controller off atm because i have a roadworthy on monday and its running around 0.4 bar or just over... needless to say its pretty slow compared to 1.1 bar All in all, the Sliding range of turbos are awesome!! With massive power and torque gains to be expected, PROVIDING you have retuned the ecu to suit....

excellent info gary. I'd be interested to see what you think about my current arrangement, I set the traction arms to 4mm shorter then stock, and my ride height is about 320/320mm all round, I do know that it should be higher however the HSD"s in my car wont go any higher then that. So since the car is already lowered a fair way, and under drift conditions the rear see's a fair bit more squat, i was trying to gain as much traction i can. Alignment as 1mm toe in, 1 degree camber and 4mm shorter traction arm. I have a feeling that after reading what you have read that i probably have gone too far and they need to be closer to standard arm lengths.

get some NA R32 rears, they are 4 hole so u dont need to change the hub, handbrake and cables should all be the same since the ceffy and 32 share same brake set up

maybe its been dropped somewhere along the line prior to you installing it?

the fan belt has prob been way too tight for a while and has stressed the bearing, the pump is only alloy... so yeah while its not common it can happen. exp on a stock one thats done 100,000 kms with an over tightened belt

anyone else want to add some imput?

it wont upset the rear as such but it will stiffen it up and increase the oversteer. the amount of throttle you use into a corner has a lot to do with the car handles it also. Knock it up a notch and see how it goes