SoFreshSoClean

You're right, however what really makes a difference is drivability, and the time it takes to rev out each gear compared with the time it takes for the compressor to spool. Sure, an engine with a large compressor may make 300rwkw, but I'm guessing the powerband on an RB25 is realistically only about 1000rpm in first gear, 2000 in second, making it utterly useless at street legal speeds (I'm speaking from experience here). I once tried to get in front of a manual V6 VS ute on a freeway onramp and failed hard Some may argue that you can rev and dump.. they might also find themselves hoon lawed and without a license As a side note, I took my friend for a ride in my old standard turboed R33.. he was blown away by the speed of it in 1st and 2nd gear compared to his lag monster big power car!

781nm?!? Is that right? Seems kinda high!

Yeah, I'll have the hide the boost controller somewhere.. I'm also slightly concerned about the test drive, as I have read that the HKS actuator is set at 1 bar minimum? Hopefully the inspector doesnt put too much of a boot in I am thinking I will just leave off the catch can until I pass, not worth having to go over again.

Yeah it's a bit of a pain in the arse and wallet, but to be honest my car is a bit of a lag monster at the moment, I was planning to change the turbo anyways. I should be able to get at least an easy 300rwhp, and the only visual bits will be the intercooler, exhaust and pod. The car is otherwise very clean looking and hasnt attracted too much attention.. The only reason I got a yellow was for my BOV and bald tyres which was my own stupid fault (even though it was booked in that week for new tyres ). What have you got these days Nathan?

No worries, thanks for your help

Do aftermarket dump pipes look much different to standard? It just worries me that when the get under the car they might spot it..

Hi all, Recently I was given a nice little yellow sticker by our friendly law enforcement officials, and was told upon going over the pits that I must obtain permits for all the performance based mods on my car (intake plenum, injectors, afpr, high mount kkr480 etc. There is a five week backlog to even obtain permission to get an engineer to sign off on it all, so I have decided its not worth the heartache and I will be returning it to (nearly) stock. I have just ordered a HKS GT-RS kit(going to be painted black and invisible), and I'll be putting the standard intake/exhaust manifolds, fuel rail etc etc back on A couple of questions though: 1. Will the standard exhaust bolt up to the HKS dump? (My 3" is ever so slightly too low, by about 2mm at the cat so I will swap it over again after) 2. Boost contollers- I am guessing that these are illegal as well? 3. Intercooler - It is a genuine greddy so no issues with cut bumpers etc but are these legal? 4. Oil catch can - Does this interfere with the emissions side of things or will it pass? 5. BOV - Is the standard one likely to handle 18psi? Or am I better off getting a GT-R one fitted? Thanks for your help

I have 265/35/zr18 Toyo T1rs which are brand new and awesome. Except I just got yellow stickered, so the tyres do not comply, along with me having to get emissions testing and permits for everything under the bonnet

Not a good plan, we had a bad storm here while I was driving, went through a puddle. Wet afm, which screwed it up, had to get towed, shit afternoon. Good for top end power if its a racecar or something like that I guess..

Well it did have a REALLY crappy tune, the cat was a fairly pricey item but I might ask my tuner to take a look. No longer an issue anyway, it has since been moved into the engine bay. I take his words with a grain of salt because he is always looking towards big power and big $$ engine builds, he is correct in that if I buy a GT30 based turbo then I am limited if I wanted to go further down the track. That is most likely the reason for his suggestion. However, it's true that he should be listening to what I want better.

could also be spark plugs...

Nah, it has an xforce 3 inch turbo back, and the cat was replaced with a high-flow 4 inch item just before the turbo was put in. It used to be my workmates car, so I have at least some idea of whats gone on with it in the past.

Thanks for that, I'm probably asking stupid questions haha. I wasnt keen on a GT35 in the first place The mechanic said he's fitted several KKR480's, all with much the same result as me, although I had a slightly better top end which he said was probably due to the aftermarket plenum. I would rather sell the turbo on it and start again with something better (I am not really out of pocket as I bought the car with this setup on it).

Hah please explain? I got quoted $2013 for a GT3076R (new), does that sound reasonable?

Found out the turbo is a KKR480 (or at least a copy of one), my tuner reckons that its pretty hard to get much more out of the current setup. So once I sell my old car, the series II is going in for a new turbo. I've since had the AFM/pod moved up into the engine bay (so now the tune is screwed as well ). He is pushing me towards a GT35 with the 0.63 housing, but I'm not convinced. I dont plan on rebuilding the engine so I would rather have a smaller turbo with less lag being pushed a bit harder. I will also be getting all the stupid blue silicon hoses replaced with proper stainless pipes, and I'll be getting a catch can put in.

Cool, makes sense. I definately want to get it changed ASAP!

Hi, So I have a pod filter located in a retarded location just in front of the tyre (pretty sure its where the original SMIC was). Now I washed my car the other day, and drove off after I was finished. Now when I came onto boost, it was like I had hit a brick wall, the car either cut fuel or spark completely. I am guessing that my pod filter got wet. So while I understand the reason for it, what exactly is happening here? Is the ECU doing this to stop water being sucked into the engine and bending rods? Before anyone asks, yes I am going to relocate the filter

Some developments: Got a workshop to take a quick look at the car, they chucked it on a dyno briefly. Turns out that it's an internally gated turbo with the gate welded and routed to an external gate. They blocked off the wastegate so that theoretically the turbo should have boosted until something blew up but it had no effect whatsoever!! Something is screwed up, I'm going to get the whole setup looked at. My friend also spotted a small rubber blockoff coming off the turbo which had broken. We put a new one on and it's now boosting a few hundred RPM earlier which is nice. Also did a bit of road testing, the car is showing positive manifold pressure as low as 2800rpm, but only 1 or 2 psi. I'm going to get the air filter relocated back under the bonnet, its gets wet being where it is.

Haha alright I'll bite, I'll get the tune looked at . I also have a Greddy profec B spec II.. is there much scope for that to be set up wrong too? Surely a big workshop wouldn't have got that wrong?

Well the fact remains that I have a useable powerband of about 1800rpm, I doubt a retune is going to give me an extra 2000rpm to play with.

But surely a tune cannot make that much difference to spool times? Literally, in first gear I hit boost at 6k, immediately run out of revs, change to 2nd, starts going good again at 5k when again I run out of revs.. third gear is when it really comes on and goes hard but it's useless for a street car because those speeds are illegal anyway.

Sounds interesting! Full boost by 3500 AND 400rwhp? Having my cake and eating it too would be nice!

Chances are the fuel rail setup is dodge.. I wont go into details but the workshop that tuned it had it using 30l/100km (ie 200kms per tank) until it was re-tuned by hyperdrive. External gate means screamer pipe, right? If so then no, its internally gated. What rpm does a GT3071 generally produce full boost? It's an otherwise standard motor so probably not worth chasing the extra HP in exchange for bent rods...

Hi all, Just bought my workmates R33, currently running a cheap chinese turbo and making a very laggy 350rwhp on 18psi (doesnt start boosting until 5k rpm). I am looking to replace the turbo and basically 'increase the area under the curve', this is a street car so I am after maximum response rather than all out power. This is the engine as is now: . -3 inch exhaust/4 inch cat -pod filter -FMIC -Greddy ebc -PowerFC -Aftermarket inlet manifold/80mm throttle body (brand unknown) -Tubular exhaust manifold(again unknown) -Bosch fuel pump (044 or 040 I can't remember) -Big but very average performing turbo I would be chasing full boost between 3-4k, I'm guessing a GT3076 is the way to go, and would that bolt straight up to the manifold I have on now? Sorry if I'm asking unasnwerable questions, I'm just trying to go into this prepared.

Complete Auto Electrics in Osborne Park will do it for $132 assuming no major issues. I know because I'm getting mine done this friday