RB20_ZED

i found what the problem was so maybe this will help u out too - dont know what all the right terminology is but the tension rod that connects the control arm to a bracket was a touch loose so i tightened that bolt.. then i noticed that there were 3 bolts connecting that bracket to the chasis rail and they were all a little loose. I tightened them all up and that seems to have solved the clunk problem... plus the steering feels much better and tighter going around corners since the control arm hasnt got as much play as before. anyway hope that helps.

Just looking for some suggestions on this pain in the ass noise.. When i turn to the right i hear a front left hand clunk noise and can kinda 'feel' it through the steering wheel. It ONLY happens if im driving i.e. if i have the car stationary and turn the steering wheel there is no noise.It ONLY happens if turning to the right and never to the left. It happens sometimes when I brake hard. If i drove continuously around a round about to the right it only happens once - i have to turn the steering wheel to the left and back to the right for it to 'clunk' again. Im 99.9% sure it is coming from the front LEFT hand side. Had the noise for a few months and have so far: * replaced shock and springs - no change (they needed replacing anyway) - strut mount/bearing etc all fine. * replaced ball joint on left side - no change * replaced front sway bar link on left side - no change. * reassembled intercooler piping and tightened firmly to the body - it goes through the left hand side near the tire and thought it mite be clunking against the strut or something (have made sure it doesnt touch anything) - still no change in the noise. NOW im really stumped - Im thinking bout changing the left hand tie rod end but it looks fine and i dont wanna just waste money for the hell of it - anyone got any opinions? one other thing - i know the power steering pump is leaking (not much) but it has been since i got the car and this problem has only developed over the past few months.

no cruise control and i think the pedal felt like it was stationary... To be honest it all happened so fast that i could be wrong - the pedal might have moved... i AM sure that it wasnt stuck. And i AM sure that when I stopped the car (like 1 second after it happened) the pedal and the throttle mechanism were both in the usual position and not caught/stuck or in an unusual position. what about the cold idle valve?

To update: The problem remains and this time i paid more attention and it doesnt feel like the throttle gets "stuck", but it feels like it actually accelerates and opens up. I mean it feels like the throttle just opens up itself. Both times it happened I was going pretty slow and accelerating in second gear at very pretty low revs. I spent yesterday making sure there were no cables, wires etc near the throttle cable and accel pedal. The whole cable and throttle spring/mechanism etc feels excellent - no sticking or anything. Also had a look inside the throttle body at the butterfly valve thing and it seems to move fine and not be loose or sticky. Lubed up the cable so it couldnt stick and did everything I could to basically make sure the cable or throttle mechanism had nothing around it to interfer. Then, after driving the car around for over 2 hours, it happened again. Was in second gear and was starting off slowly... revving maybe 2000rpm in second gear and accelerating slowly - then it felt like it was accelerating harder and i took my foot off the pedal and it kept accelerating, took it out of gear - revs shot up - i killed the ignition, stopped, looked under the hood at the cable and it was free and restarted and the car was fine. I have the older rb20det NICS type and thing think it has something to do with the idle mechanism... i have no idea how it works but i figure something has to give the car throttle when your not touching the pedal so that it idles... and maybe this opens up or gets loose or something. In this post -> post http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=124145 someone talks about a faulty aac valve (?) and a valve UNDERNEATH the inlet plenum/manifold that adds air according to coolant temp based on maps in your ecu.. (?) I'm really just taking a stab in the dark - please help!! I'm really stuck with what to do.

smartarse

thanks for the help.

thanks both of you. just needed the reassurance that it had to be the cable somewhere or other.

To cut a long story short. Was driving today and the car seemed to accelerate without me making it. I pushed the clutch and pulled it into neutral and the engine reved quickly up to 9000 by itself and stayed there until i was able to cut the power to the fuel pump (luckily i have a kill switch). Im guessing that the accelerator cable got stuck but it seems fine and im worried that it could be caused by something else - maybe turbo/boosting related? I wasn't driving the car hard at all when it happened. what would cause the engine to spike to 9000 revs and stay there? besides the accelerator cable/pedal getting caught or stuck. my car seems fine now but im scared to drive it without knowing what may have caused it since the cable doesnt seem like it had anything to get caught on. any help/opinions would be appreciated.

To cut a long story short. Was driving today and the car seemed to accelerate without me making it. I pushed the clutch and pulled it into neutral and the engine reved quickly up to 9000 by itself and stayed there until i was able to cut the power to the fuel pump (luckily i have a kill switch). Im guessing that the accelerator cable got stuck but it seems fine and im worried that it could be caused by something else - maybe turbo/boosting related? I wasn't driving the car hard at all when it happened. what would cause the engine to spike to 9000 revs and stay there? besides the accelerator cable/pedal getting caught or stuck. my car seems fine now but im scared to drive it without knowing what may have caused it since the cable doesnt seem like it had anything to get caught on. any help/opinions would be appreciated.

yeh its from stationary to 1st put it in first - slowly release clutch, *grind* for a second, then perfect - no noise. happened with both gearboxes but only 50% of the time. same clutch.

I know twin plate clutches are normally noisey but im not sure whats 'normal' and whats not. Hoping someone can help who knows from experience. The Noises: -"Ringing" noise with clutch pedal in (99% sure this is normal) -Sometimes when im taking off and let the clutch bite (slowly) there is a very loud grinding noise (no idea if this is normal) This doesnt happen all the time and i originally thought this was my input shaft bearing which i knew was bad. Recently got a reconditioned box installed but told the mechanic to leave the clutch in if it looked fine (which he said it did). The first two days there were no grinding noises but today it started making the grinding noise again and im hoping that it is just a 'normal' noise of the two clutch plates grinding on contact (if i let the pedal out slow). if its not normal - is it more likely a clutch thing or a gearbox bearing thing? (i know a RB20det box with twin plate buttom clutches dont go well together but this box has new bearings and has only been in for 150km so i hope to God it hasnt started screwing the box already).

thanks!

i need to change my thrust bearing and have a twin plate button clutch on my rb20det and just wanna know if i can go buy any thrust bearing that is suited for an rb20 clutch or will it vary depending on the type of clutch used? any help will be appreciated.

I have a RB30 n/a engine for sale. Was purchased as an engine/gearbox combo but i only need the gearbox... as a result i am selling the engine etc. It runs very well. Comes with wiring harness, manual computer, radiator, air box and air flow meter. Was originally out of a vl that has 240 000kms on it. Ready to drop into a car. Asking $250 but i am open to offers so pm me if ur interested. Located in Sydney. Note: the gearbox in the pic is not for sale.

hey just wondering if anyone knows where to get an rb20det timing belt... ive been calling around a few parts shops and they only seem to be able to get the rb30 belt. how much would i be looking at and where should i look???

just wondering if anyone knows if an rb30e clutch will fit an rb20det? have got a heavy duty one for free and thought id change it over if it fits. anyone know?

ill give you 500

anyone know what thermostat will fit an rb20det? they dont have them listed in the books in the car shops so im hoping it mite be the same as the rb30e or ive heard its the same as the vg series.. anyway help would be appreciated. thanks

pm sent - also can u pm ur fone number

you got a gearbox to go with it? where u located?

its a gearbox 'open-up' problem. leave it till it gets bad/worse/breaks (maybe never) & get a second hand box or spend the money getting the box opened up and bearings changed now but it will cost a far bit.

39.5cm

okay im pretty interested in buying the box - but im in sydney.. i think freight would be a b1tch - u got any idea how much it would be?

the gearbox have any bearing noise/other issues? where u located?

swap the box for an rb20 box and then ill buy that