OZ_Pomy

how about boot trim? im in adelaide as well cheers

can any one tell me for sure if a r32 rb20 ignitor is the same as a series 1 rb25 r33? are they interchangable with one another HELPPPPPPP CHEERS

fuel not fule

anyone else?

can any one tell me what my r33 series 1 coilpacks should read when i test them with a ohm meter ? what is the factory specification on these cheers

i just fitted one into my sons car with his help in a r33 gtst it was one of the clutches brought in here with a group buy. actually fitting time took us about 4 hrs total had to wait a day while getting flyweel machined.hardest part of the job was getting the top bolt of the starter moter altho it went back on easy lol . 350 to 400 bucks sounds about right if there machining the flywheel as well .and while you have it all apart check ya rear main seal as well may as well do it if it looks suss. gearbox took about 3.8 litres of fresh oil as well good luck with it cheers

hey where abouts in adelaide are you i will be in need of a wheel alignment in a few weeks on my skyline i dont mind driving to the other side of town to get a good job done cheers

we did swap with a known working one that i took off my dads r33 but after a couple days it fried that one as well so now we have 2 r33's off the road . does anyone know what the standed ohm reading should be for a healthy coil ? cheers

yeah wasnt really worth the $14 to get in seen everything within 20 minutes and left after about an hour

BUMP anyone got any ideas at all?

hey there the other day my car (R33 GTST Series1) started misfiring and finally narrowed the problem down to the ignitor which broke. So after putting on a perfect ignitor the car was fine for about 2 days driving around until today where i have the same problem where the car is misfiring again. I put my ignitor on a different R33 GTST series 1 and it made that r33 run rough aswell, which tells me that this ignitor has now broke. Does any one know what could course the ignitors to keep breaking as apparently its not a common problem. When i was playing around with the wires that go into the plug it gave me a pretty nasty zap which makes me think the problem could be electrical related? Any ideas any one? cheers iLEC

bump

as topic suggest im after a series 1 r33 ignitor pack . any one got one for sale ? im in adelaide but happy to pay postage cheers allan

hey i know it was a few weeks ago now but if you sorted out the problem can you let me know what it was cause i have a very similar problem to this aswell. Cheers iLEC

yeah i had this same problem it is one of the biggest pain in the ass jobs for such a little part to be replaced the part you need is like a little actuator thing with an arm on it and i think its the cogs inside it get stripped over time Baron25 - Your heaters should work once your car is warmed up not straight away. Here is a picture of the part that needs to be replaced to get rid of the clicking noise. It is the bit with the green square around it the bit with the yellow circle around it is the heater setup with the heater core in it. I bought the part (just the bit that clicks not the whole heater) of a person on hear for like $60 and the problem was solved. You will need to pull all the pillars, dash, everything in the dash, Centre consoles, stearing wheel and possibley the front seats out. Theres a guide on hear somewhere on how to pull the dash out which was extremely useful. Good luck with the job if you need any help at all give me a pm. cheers iLEC

cheers for that

any one know how much oil a r33 gearbox takes to fill? manual that is cheers

i brought one of ebay on disc for 7 bucks a while a go its ok but takes some searching to find what ya want . better than nothing tho

out of my price range looks to much like the 350zx

i actually done this job last week my car had been doing it since i brought it.then my heater core died so fixed both probs at once. there is no easy way to do this and the whole dash must come out .with the actuator what happens is it strips the plastic gears inside and when it trys to open the vent door it wont move and just makes that clicken noise. we had never done one b4 so we was carefully when pulling the dash apart it took about 4 hrs we marked every plug to make sure things went back together as they should. and prob the same to put it back together but we had to fit the new heater box as well witch took a bit extra time .honestly if your not condident in doing it yourself then pay someone cause its not hard to break some of the plastic clips ect ect its a big job and lots of patience is required cheers good luck

once you get the eazy out in place go really easy on them as they are quite brittle and do break .if ya break one flush with the stud your in real trouble as they are bloody hard to drill out i have a broken stud i need to fix soon as well good luck with it

i personally have had better results from the plain ngk copper plugs myself far less breakdown under load .might not last as long but def work better for me .iridum plugs were explained to me as not a performance plug but a plug that will last a long time and used in cars where plug changes are hard to do ie rear cyl of a fwd v6 camry ect ect .i know on our methanol fueld speedway car we never used anything fancy /i think sometimes people get sucked in by the hype of the manufactures advertising .more expenxe is not always the way to go in my view cheers all

hey mate i have a whole instrument cluster that im wrecking do you want the whole needle for the tacho cause im not sure what clip your talking about. but let me know exactly what part you want and i will send it down to you. Just pm me your address cheers iLEC

when i did the front mount intercooler on mine we just trimed the blades back. It was one of the hybrid intercooler kits. Heres a few pics of the fan blades trimmed. Hope this helps you out abit. Cheers iLEC

im after the black plastic control box that bolts onto the top of the heater box under the dash that opens the vent do you have this cheers pm me if ya do