Guishnu

Hi All, I wonder whether anybody could enlighten me. The R34 GTT Speed sensor (in the gearbox) Does this provide a signal directly to the dashboard or does it go into the ECU which is then spat out to the dash? I'm wondering because I have a series 2 Stagea (pretty much an R34GTT from everything I have seen) that i have just done a manual conversion to. I used an R34GTT speedo sensor expecting it to be plug and play, but it's not and doesn't work at all. Any advice? Regards Chris

The coolant was full of gunk, which I can only presume was something similar to radweld. I dropped the coolant, did the work on the car, started it up and the engine was mixing oil/water. I can only presume that the chap who sold me the car knew about it and threw in the headstop/radweld to get shot of it. The plugs were loose in the engine too. Bit of a mess. Anyway - I seem to have isolated the problem. The adaptor plate was leaking air through cyl 5., causing high idle and the stupid sound (I hope) The inlet port on number 5 was full of hylomar sealant, where as all others were clean. I'm in the process of cleaning everything up, then i'll reassemble. Fingers crossed and thanks for your help. Chris

Howdy All, I'm literally racking my brains on this one and I wanted to reach out and see if anybody had any ideas. I fitted RB26 throttle bodies/plenum to my RB25NEO. Started it up, it was fine appart from head gasket failure. So removed the engine, did the head gasket. Put it all back together and now it starts and runs nicely but has this really bloody annoying whine!! - It's coming from underneath the back/middle of the plenum. - It doesn't appear to be coming from any injector (disconnected each cylinder and noise doesn't go away) - It's there irrespective of fuel pressure - It's there irrespective of whether the plenum is on or off (im running map sensor, so will run without plenum fitted) - It's there if I remove the balance box/aac value and bipass the balance pipe - I have swapped out the throttle bodies for another set. Still there. - If you move the steering wheel to put load on the PAS pump, no change in volume or tone - If you pump the brake no change in volume or tone - It's there if you press the clutch - It's there if you put it in gear - It disappears if you rev cylinders 5&6. - It decreases but is still audable if you rev cylinders 1&2 or 3&4 - If you rev the car with the plenum on, it goes See the two video's below Any ideas??

Depends what version engine it has in it. I have two NEO engine's sitting in the workshop that have short nose crank collars. If you order an oil pump for an RB25DET here in the UK, you get a N1 pump as the part number has been super-seeded.

Hi mate, I have this exact ECU that's coming out of my car as i'm installing a Link G4. Only problem is that i'm in the UK. More than happy to ship to you tho.

Im having the same problem at the moment :-( The R34 centre console doesn't fit. It's too short and at the wrong angle. The auto centre console with the R34 manual insert also doesn't fit - again, its the wrong angle. 260rs center console and surround or nothing i'm afraid mate.

Yep, The S1/S2 RWD Stagea's use an R200 diff casing the same as the turbo versions of the S13/S14/S15/R32/R33/R34. The only difference between them is that some are 'long nose' (ABS) and some are short nose (non abs) also the S13/R32 nose mounts are a effectively solid mounted but providing you have the mounting bolts to go with it, it'll still fit. Stagea uses the larger 2 bolt backplate. The same as the S14/S15/R33/R34. So it should have just dropped straight in. I recently fitted an Nismo GTPRO into mine. I'd had it in an S14 and an R33 before it landed into the Stagea. Only thing i had to do was add the ABS rings to the differential output shafts (they are specific to the diff core, so you can't just use the standard stagea ones)

Yeah, So thanks again for all the help... Hopefully this thread will help people some other person with a Factory RWD series 2. This is the wiring diagram To get the reverse light, speedo and neutral switch working you'll need a RWD loom to go with the gearbox you're using. I used an R34 GTT gearbox that came with a loom and snipped the connectors that i needed off that and wired them into the Stagea auto gearbox loom. On the RB25 gearbox, the rear most sensor by the gear stick is the neutral switch and the next one forward towards slightly round the box is the reverse switch. Next one forward again is the speedo drive. Other than that the conversion is actually very simple. A couple of points: - R34 clutch pedal fits - R34 Handbrake mechanism and cable does not fit (it's too short) - R34 centre console does not fit (not even close) - R34 prop shaft (front half) fits straight on no problems.

Humm... I don't suppose anybody can point me in the direction of a vehicle side gearbox wiring diagram can you?

Okay, So this is what i have currently. The S2 Stagea auto transmission loom looks very similar (at the engine end) to the R34GTT manual transmission loom. However, while one of the plugs is the same type (blocky 8 pin) the pinouts seem different. The second connector, which is a blocky 4 pin on the R34 loom, is an oval 8 pin on the stagea. Can anybody point me in the direction of a pinout? Or even just tell me what's what on the loom? Stagea looks like this (on the gearbox loom) Big Block |1||3|5|7| |2||4|6|8| 1) Black/Red Stripe 2) Red/Yellow Stripe 3) Black/White Stripe 4) White/Yellow Stripe 5) Grey/Red Stripe 6) Yellow 7) Black 8) Grey Small Block (1|3|5|7) (2|4|6|8) 1)Red/Black Stripe 2)Green/Red Stripe 3)White/Black Stripe 4) Green/White Stripe 5) Black 6) Purple/Black Stripe 7) Purple/White Stripe 8) Green/Red Stripe

Thanks for the response mate, but with the greatest of respect to you - i think your incorrect. I have done quite a bit of searching and from what I can tell, you are right about all S1/S2 4wd cars being the same. But from the stuff I have read they all seem to have 4 plugs terminating at the fuse box. Mine doesn't - it only seems to have 2. This is what the wiring guides on the thread here look like: This is what mine looks like:

Hi All, I was wondering if anybody had any information surrounding an auto to manual conversion on the above car. As you have probably gathered, I have a C34 Stagea, S2 RWD Auto that i'm going to convert to a manual. I have a complete R34gtt manual sitting right next to it so have all the bits i'll need (I hope) Question is: Has anybody done this before or knows how much plug/play is involved. Having seen lots of auto/manual swaps before on S/R bodies, i'm hoping that it's a case of dropping of the auto box/torque converter/flywheel. Removing the front half of the prop (off the car, obviously) removing the box wiring then replacing it with the R34GTT stuff. (along with fitting clutch pedals/cylinders etc) There is also a bit of wizardry around the ECU that means I have to trick it into thinking it's in drive? I can find loads of info on converting 4WD cars from auto to manual, but nothing on the RWD and no trace of anything S2 specific :-( Cheers Chris

Yeah, there is a problem with it somewhere. Sometimes it works, sometimes it don't :-( It actually only seems to work when it's hot outside... Anybody selling a second hand one?

Totally randomly, it has started working today. May be something to do with the weather getting hot here in the UK. I'm wondering if it's some damp or moisture in the system somewhere? Weird.

Hey there :-) Thanks for the advice, i have had it out and checked all the connections. It's fine :-( Anybody know where i can buy a new one?