Mr_RS4

Yeah well can't say I fell sorry for any of them. The two idiots racing and the dick that ran the red (you can see they had a green light). Killed 3 morons with one stone as far as I'm concerned. As long as no inocent bystanders got hurt, and if they were there watching the race then too bad for them too. I know I sound harsh but its knob jockys like this that give anyone with a car that even looks like its modified a bad name.

I'm guessing no, but has anyone on here gone to the trouble of fitting a Z32 ECU to a series 1. I've looked on the Nistune website and read all about it. Really apart from a few small mods to the Z32 board it seems that it should fire straight up, even without a Nistune board installed. But this was all based on a R33. Z32 ECU's are cheap and easy to come by, so I might be looking to give it a go.

Or if you were talking about the tie rod end ball joints (people all refer to ball joints in different ways) then here is another Ebay link, an aussie one http://cgi.ebay.com.au/2-OUTER-TIE-ROD-END...=item27b1ce7811 And at that price with free shipping thats pretty good. Mind you Nissan isn't too bad either, I got mine (R34 GTR ones, part# is on here somewhere) for about $65 anyway.

If your talking about the ball joints on the front lower control arms I'm in the process of replacing everything underneath mine and I'm doing these as well as all mine are split, leaking grease and are pretty loose now anyway. Nissan won't do much but offer you a full replacement arm with the inner and outer ball joints on them (stuff that), but I found this UK Ebay site that sells both front inner and outer ball joints for the front LCA and the rear ball joints on the rear LCA. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/conceptua-tuning_...4634Q2ec0Q2em14 Prices aren't too bad I guess but I'm yet to find someone here locally that will supply all these ball joints for C34 Stageas. But if anyone does know please let me know. Because its going to work out roughly $630AUD before shipping for all front and rear (6 in total). And yes I also feel your anger for c.v's Which is why I'm ripping front and rear shafts out and rebuilding them with new joints, boots etc so I won't have to fu*k around with them anymore hopefully. Also (if you are talking about the ones I'm talking about) they are a pain in the arse to get off too. I just took the arms off, put them in a vice and used a fork style ball joint remover (yes I know they stuff the rubber boots) but they were shagged anyway so I didn't care. It was pretty easy. You could also use a 3 jaw puller or a single jaw ball joint remover. But they are in there tight. Give the arms a hit with a hammer around the joint too to break it loose.

This is the pain in the arse thing with the attessa system. Even with my stock stagea rims when I first got the car I got new tyres for the front and put the old fronts on the back (as you would normally do), however this caused the attessa system to do the same thing as you mentioned. So I eneded up getting them to put the new ones on the back and the old ones back to the front. Was fine then, so even the tread height difference between new and old tyres of the same size is enough to cause it to have a fit. So now I just get four new tyres, keep rotating them to get as much life out of all four as possible then replace all four again. But I really want to get some descent wheel soon (once suspension is sorted out) and would love to get wider wheels at the back but I'm not going to as I its going to stuff up the way I rotate wheels. So I'm thinking just 33 or 34 wheels.

Mind you if you have an safc and and sitc (which I do ) you might be able to get enough correction to get a good tune out of it. But I think I'd still rather do what tangles did and get a toshi chip made up, install that and then use the above mentioned to fine tune it. Would probably be cheaper too. I believe he got a pretty good result that way.

My starter has gone twice on my S1. Sounds just like your issues when starting. The first one took about 4 weeks before it finally gove up (tap with an extension bar didn't do the trick anymore) second one went in one night. I know you said you've never had over heating issues before now but you also said it was on hot days going up hills. I have exactly the same issue with mine, it never over heats but if its a hot and humid enough day and I'm going up a steep range (espically if I'm stuck behind someone, so I'm going fairly slow) it overheats badly. Mind you I have a nismo front bar which gives great airflow to the intercooler but nothing else, then behind the front mount I've got the tranny cooler, thermo fan for a/c, aircon condenser then finally the radiator. So its no surprise to me it overheats. I will address the issue one day. So if you've got a front mount and its only while going up ranges etc. then it may be a lack of airflow issue. But might not be either..... Have you considered just getting a basic t-piece bleed valve for boost control, making sure its hooked up right with new hoses and going from there. But in saying all this if your boost was fine before taking your car in then something was obviously done while it was in there. I don't know what your mods are (if any) but 122kw seems a little on the low side for a S2, not to mention the 108kw you were getting before? I got 159kw on a S1 with just exhast, fmic, safc and 11psi and my coils wern't in the best shape either. But yeah like others have said its a bit more running around but best to stick to the shops that specialise in a particular thing (don't worry I have found out the hard way as you have with a particular workshop here thats fairly well known). A radiator shop will be able to do a pressure check and leak down test and rule out anything really bad (like blown head gasket) and should be able to sort out your over heating issues, then try and find a good auto electrician but my money would be on the starter on its way out but once again they should be able to find the problem and as for the boost I'd just try a simple bleed valve and by pass everything else and see how that goes. Good Luck!

Yeah I'll add it to my I'll get to it one day list

From what you've said it sounds like it should be fine. I also have a small amount of surface rust on the luggage clips in the back. When I first got my car 4 years ago there were no signs of rust but it did develop in the mirrors at a later stage like many c34's will even if it isn't now. Don't let it put you off an othwise tidy car and the fix isn't that expensive anyway. Only way to bee 100% sure on any C34 is to pull the mirrors off and I don't think too many people would be happy to do that

Just a little off topic but can anyone tell me if the actual front drive shafts are the same as the GTR. Because I am wanting to replace all my inner and outer cv joints (starting to get noisey so figure I'll do all of them) and I can get new GTR shafts online for a pretty good price. This way I can just rip out my shafts and put the new ones in.

Thanks rb30dett I got the PM and I'll let you know in a couple of days! Thanks mate.

Yeah my stag and 2 previous 180's have all had the same problem. Joy of having pillarless windows I guess. Mind you my back ones seem ok. But they rarely ever get used so thats probably why. Even my back doors seem a lot stiffer to open and shut because they also rarely get used. I would love to know how to get rid of the wind noise on the fronts without having to get weather sheilds.

Thanks but I really want to snorkel to go with it.

Hey all, I am in need of a few parts. Could get them from Japan but costs more in freight than it does for the parts so I'll try here first. I need: Series 1 Auto Gear Knob (someone who's done a manul conversion must have one laying around) Factory Airbox with Snorkel Front Upper Control Arms (L+R) That about does it for now....PM me if you've got any of this stuff for sale! Thanks Guys, Josh.

front and rear bars made a huge difference for me but I've got a S1 Auto. You don't even have to really replace the springs straight away if you don't want to. The standard rates are quite good as it is and a little more comfortable as well. Depends if you planning on lowering it a lot or just a bit. You can still lower the car with the stock springs as your moving the lower spring seat. Order the bilsteins from heasmans and get them to machine extra circlip grooves in so you have some more height settings to play with, get the bushes from whiteline and and bars from selby. You should be able to order all the parts yourself and then just take them into which ever shop you choose to install the gear for you. But if you do plan on changin the springs as someone else said the tein s-tech springs seem to be quite popular. Might be quicker than getting whiteline to make some up.

Pffft if I had a dollar for everytime I hear about a dodgy wow or jb install I wouldn't have to go to work tomorrow I've had shocking experiences with both and at various stores. I will never ever let any one of them near any of my cars again. Mind you their sales peoples knowledge is pretty sub par to say the least too. And I'm not just talking about the car audio side of things either. When ever I have asked a particular question about a product I just get a blank face and you can almost hear their brain ticking over trying to come up with something to say. Look they are good stores to shop at if you want cheap stuff as their prices are pretty hard to beat (talking about retail prices not internet prices) but thats pretty much it. Best to reseach what your interested in before going in because you'll be lucky to find out what you want to know instore. I had to argue with the sales guy a number of times to get the long list of issues fixed on my 180sx. And after he ran out of excuses and gove up trying to sting me for more cash to fix what should have been done right in the first place I eventually got it all sorted out but it took a number of trips back and forward. There don't seem to be many dedicated car audio places around anymore so it does make it hard to find a good one. Good luck with it anyway man....

Yeah torrent is done now. I got the one with all japanese, american and euro but you only have to unrar the A's and B's for what we are interested in. I'll install it when I have the chance.

You never know. I mean I ordered my kit from him back in early '08 so that was still about 3 years after the group buy started. I know it wasn't hard for him to get the bilsteins and bushes and sway bars but had to wait a while for whiteline to make the springs. I think from memory I waited about 6 weeks. Key is to be paitent. He's a very popular person on SAU and inbox is quite often full so may take more than a few attempts to get your PM through, and if he can still get the kits together your probably still up for a bit of a wait unless everything is in stock. But if he can still do it I would say go for it, worth the wait and there's many people here that are happy with the kit, me one of them. Very easy to install, infact I think I can have everything removed in about 45mins now (had adjusted it a few times now). I would personally recomend keeping and using your factory bump stops (you'll have to cut them down though) and dust covers if they're still ok or get OEM replacments as the generic whitleline ones I got I wasn't to impressed with, but that's nothing against SK or the kit though.

I got a genuine Nissan one off Ebay for something like $120 delivered about 18months ago. I don't mind paying that little bit more than the generic bosch ones as at least you don't have to cut the plug. But I wouldn't be to worried about 250kms on 1/2 tank. Thats really not that bad at all would have to see what you got after the rest of the tank is gone.

Yes so many threads on this already I have just been reading them the last few days and search worked fine for me. Reason people say it is so all the information thats gathered stays in the one thread instead of being strewn across a heap of threads making it very hard to find what your looking for. Otherwise you will have 20 different threads of the same thing with people asking the same questions. Anyway I would look into (and am going to get myself this year hopefully) the CCubed kit. Go this thread http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/St...R34&st=140# and go to post #159 (didn't take long to find it ) and darrin has a copy and pasted an email from ccubed with full pricing and break down of the kit. I personally think its a way better option than the MASA kit seeing as its cheaper, its already in the country and from what others have said much better quality. Should bolt right on or close to it, MASA kits still require a lot of work. All you need is the lights which will cost anywhere from a few hundred $$ for used non HID R34 lights or about $1100 new non HID right up to $3200 if you want new genuine R34GTR HID lights......I know what I'd be going for. So really worst case with new non HID lights and shipping you'd be looking around $5000 then depend on wether you fit your self and get someone to paint or you pay someone to fit and paint in which you'd be looking roughly $2000-$2500 for fitting plus how every much for paint. Still not a cheap exercise but a lot cheaper than going with the MASA kit. Its worth it IMO!

Thanks heaps for that, that's exactly what I'm looking for. But I also want to grab a few other part numbers off those screen shots. I have managed to find a (barely seeded) torrent for fast so I'm downloading it now so I won't have to keep bugging people! Thanks again Dave.

Oh yeah that might of helped hey....PM sent! Thanks heaps!

Ok thats done it for me, that really looks Like fair enough it looks neat enough from the pics and looks like they've done a good job (on the front anyway) but IMO it just wrong.....

The rear is just tripe, its doesn't even look like they tried. But as for the front....I still don't like it but it does look like they've managed to get the two together fairly well. I love both shapes but together it just doesn't work. Maybe if they used the basic shape of the kpgc10 (grille and lights etc..) then made a bit more modern kit around that. Like blended both shapes together rather than just stick 2 cars from very different era's together. Even then I still don't know if it'd look right.

Oh yeah one more thing. I have noticed that the ride heights have dropped on the drivers side of the car too. About 10mm front and 15mm rear. I did install the kit almost 2 years ago now and I am really ever the only person in the car (and I'm about 98-100kgs). I am guessing this is because the car really only ever has me in it? So when I take the front and rear struts out I was going to swap sides front and rear, and I'm probably going to raise it up a little too.